3D Scanner

I know this is more of a 3D printer forum but I have a lot of respect for this groups thoughts and Ideas

I’m looking for a 3D scanner for black rubber parts like rubber hoses and nylon tubes which can be kinda glossy at times

Do you have a particular scanner you recommend?

I’ve looked at the following and I don’t really see a clear cut winner

Revopoint:

https://www.revopoint3d.com/products/3d-laser-scanner-metrox?variant=52816658170221

Creality Raptor:

https://store.creality.com/products/cr-scan-raptor-3d-scanner

EinStar 2

https://us.einstar.com/products/einstar-2

EinbStar Rockit:Probably the best one but alittle more than I would to spend… is it the best out of the group though?

https://us.einstar.com/products/einstar-rockit

these aren’t listed in any certain order and I might not even be looking at the correct one

Raptor is better suited for larger parts and greater distances, as I recall. Something like their Otter may be better for your application. I have one and like it for small parts.

Whatever you end up with, black parts and glossy parts are a problem. You’ll either need to use a for purpose scanning spray to give it a more matte finish, or something like a foot powder spray. Both are easily removable afterward, I’ve had good results with this approach.

Not to derail too hard, but if your goal is recreating and measuring tubes and hoses, maybe just a pair of calipers? Pretty easy to find the outside diameter, inside diameter, subtract to find the thickness, etc.

I’ve not had good luck with any phone based photogrammetry solutions. The apps all seem designed to make something visually appealing on the screen, when you remove the texture bitmaps and put it in a slicer its a train wreck
I’ve heard [not experienced] good things about creality’s newer gen handheld scanners.

And there’s a special frosting spray you can spray all over stuff that will create contrast against black or shiny objects, and it advertises that it will sublimate off and not leave any residue.

I agree, in regards to the diameters and walls cailpers is my best bet

but i need to find the intersection points and stuff of some of the bends… Only really accurate way i’ve come up with is scanning

i will be mostly be reverse engineering parts though

I’ve already scanned quite a few 3D objects, and there are three approaches you can take if you want to perfect something:


Method #1

Just scan: You’ll get a point cloud which you can convert into an STL file. This almost always fails because there are invisible gaps, which means a lot of post-processing in Blender, and the result is often not to scale. It works, but be prepared for a lot of work. There are professional-grade devices that do this better than consumer-market ones.

I’d only recommend this if you have top-of-the-line professional equipment.

A high level of skill in Blender is required.


Method #2

The middle ground: Use a budget scanner and don’t worry about accuracy – you’ll still generate a point cloud that can be converted to STL. This is more useful as a blueprint for importing into a CAD program to create a sketch. Use real measuring tools, such as callipers, to take precise measurements. This method is faster than the first one described and is ideal for complex geometries.


Method #3

Drawing it directly in CAD is often the fastest option because it saves you from the extremely time-consuming rework involved in Method 1. However, you won’t have a blueprint to help you spot obvious errors, as you would in step two.

However, there is a way to create a blueprint: Take a photo with a ruler on all sides and import it into CAD to scale. Since you photographed the ruler, you can get the dimensions almost 99% accurate.


Summary

In any case, you should stop thinking that a scanner saves you time and provides accurate results: A scanner always requires some follow-up work.

By the way, Methods 2 and 3, which I described, can be done with any mobile phone; no additional scanner is needed. If you only want to make rubber hoses and nylon tubes, the key question is whether it’s even worth investing so much money and time into method one.

If you’re interested in exploring 3D scanning, I highly recommend this free programme: 3DF Zephyr Free. Although it was developed for architecture, it also works well with everyday objects.

You can start by using it with a standard mobile phone. This will give you a good understanding of the workflow, including what a point cloud is, how to convert it to STL and how to fix the measurement errors in Blender that will occur.

Basically, how to convert a point cloud into an STL file, fix any errors, and make it printer-friendly.

Unfortunately, CAD programs provide very limited support for meshes, so they are usually the wrong choice.


Also bear in mind that both point clouds and meshes can put considerable strain on your hardware. You should have something like an RTX 4060 or 4070, as these will make your computer work very hard. You can’t compare that to CAD, because here millions of points are calculated, even for simple objects.

Also keep in mind: Scanning point clouds is never 100% perfect; it’s an approximation of reality. While CAD can calculate truly perfect curves almost to infinity, point clouds - which are later converted into polygons and meshes - consist of many millions of surfaces.


Simplified illustration: On the left, a mesh consisting of many faces as a result, the surfaces are never 100% perfect. On the right, CAD.

We have a FreeScan Combo that works great but I was looking for a lower cost scanner to have a backup that way when its in use I have something to use…

What i’ve been doing lately is having a guy scan it for me with the FreeScan Combo and then I import that .stl file into PolyWorks Inspector or AutoDesk Fusion

If I’m importing into PolyWorks i’m just taking quick measurements here and there

When I’m importing into AutoDesk Fusion I’m importing that .stp file or mesh and creating bodies from it… when I have that body I typically create a sketch from it to make it cleaner CAD model