Good to know. Thanks for verifying.
I’m starting to think the model I’m trying to print (a RepRak bracket) may be a driving cause of my trouble since it has a lot of surface area with the build plate (especially at the edges).
I don’t know your climate or room temps.
You can also add a small 500 watt space heater to keep the temps around 40c - 60c this is what I do on my bigger printers plus you already know I use the Garolite build plate for nylon.
You can also add this to your Bambu Lab X1 start g-code to help get the chamber warmed up.
;===== HEAT SOAK ====================
{if (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ABS”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“ASA”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PA-CF”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PA”) || (filament_type[initial_tool]==“PC”)}
M140 S110 ; set bed temp at 110ºc
M104 S125
G28
G0 Z150 F2000
M106 P2 S255 ; turn ON aux fan at full speed
M106 P3 S0 ; turn OFF chamber fan
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
G4 S90 ; wait 90 seconds
M106 P2 S0 ; turn OFF aux fan
{endif}
Keep us updated 
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I forgot…I used the Engineering plate and glue stick and a 0.6mm nozzle.
Not sure if that will help you but I thought I mention it.
I just printed a few parts with Bambu Lab PA-CF. Turned out fine. No changes made to the settings other than switching to the 0.6mm nozzle profile.
That would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks @tinkermonkey
Hey guys,
Are you using the AMS with nylon, or does it need to be used externally?
Can you use the .4 nozzle with nylon, or is the .6 necessary?
Cheers,
I did this print using the AMS with Polymaker PA612-CF and PolySupport for PA12. Total print time was around 10 hrs 30 min.
What size nozzle did you use?
The stock 0.4mm hardened steel nozzle that came installed with the X1C. I have a 0.6, but I haven’t gotten around to trying it out yet.
Excellent!! Cheers for that, I wasn’t sure if the .4 was asking for blockages. I have a new roll of PA so I’m keen to try it out. Thanks again!!
I’ve been bouncing between PETG, PA12-CF, PA6-GF, TPU, ASA, CoPA like a mad man this week and I haven’t had any issues. I haven’t used any of the Bambu filaments though other than the bit of PLA that comes with the printer. So yeah, go for it, get your print on.
Mostly been using the external roll though. The print above was my first long print with the AMS. It seemed to work fine, the cardboard rolls look fine, PTFE tubes look ok, my the sound the filament made when retracting and feeding in the AMS sounded awful lol. I let it go for the test print, but I dunno how often I would print those materials from the AMS. I was honestly surprised that the print was still going strong when I woke up this morning. I would have put money that there was going to be a jam, or broken filament or some other AMS issue.
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Yeah nice. I’ve only had mine for 2 weeks, so I’ve been mainly using PLA+ and PETG cause I already had quite a bit and I’ve also done a few things in TPU, which I’d never printed with before. I was really surprised with the results with the TPU. I’d had the roll for ages but hadn’t opened it and although it was still sealed, it had absorbed air, so I was half expecting issues but was pleasently surprised.
I haven’t bought any extra Bambu filament either, a bit overpriced I think. From what I’ve read from others, it doesn’t seem to be necessary, I did wonder when I first got the printer though.
I had a bit of a scare with my AMS when I put some old and not properly dried PLA+ in it the other day. It printed OK, but when it retracted the roll, it snapped a piece of the PLA off and blocked one of the feeder tubes, which caused a show-stopper with the printer lol.
I was dreading having to pull the AMS apart but it was so simple to fix, two screws and a couple of plugs and less than mins all up (included checking the procedure online) and it was up and working again.
I love this printer, easily the best printer I own
Correction
***less than 5 mins all up
Would anybody that has managed a successful PA12 print be so kind and share a screenshot of their speed settings and filament temperature settings?
With my X1C I can print nearly everything that I want in perfect quality out of the box in decent quality (also PA12-CF), but regular 3rd party Nylon just produces completely unusable results (with the PA generic template), so I guess i need to change some settings. By the way: Yes, I have dried it (more than 12 hours). I am using 0.6 hardened steel nozzle.
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What are the problems you have?
This is what I have been using and it works great for Polymaker PA12-CF. One minor note, I’ve done all my printing with the 0.4 nozzle but these settings should be a good starting point for a 0.6 nozzle.
You could probably bump the speeds up, but I haven’t bothered doing a max speed test to see what the cut off should be.
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Thanks a lot! Unfortunately I was looking for the (Polymaker) PA12.
The PA12-CF is what works pretty fine for me too.
Do you maybe also have a Screenshot with working settings for Nylon without CF?
The inner structure is highly merged / fused, so the real contours are not preserved which makes it useless.
The outside is poor in quality and where the seam should be, it is very irregular, not even closed on the outer shells.
(I am trying to print a 3x2cm sleeve bearing that is essentially just a cylinder from the outside, but has a simple and blunt gear-shaped cutout on the inside)
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Unfortunately I do not, nor do I see a PA12 listed on their US website. Hopefully they will have it available soon.
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oops - you are absolutely right. this is because I have Fiberlogy Nylon PA12😉
Would also like a copy please @tinkermonkey