Anybody getting decent results printing 3rd party Nylon (non-CF)?
I never really had success printing Nylon so far. I tried numerous times with numerous settings and using Nano Polymer Adhesive from Vision Miner on my Lulzbot Taz 6 with PEI sheet. Also tried just glass.
So I was hoping that I would get results with a brand new printer on the market (my Lulzbot is 6 or so years old).
I am using the X1 Carbon and have good results with PA-CF but not with regular Nylon (Gizmo Dorks).
At least one side is pulling off the bed (larger part, pulls off left side of the bed) all the time even when using a Brim. I tried High Temp bed and Engineering plate.
Has anybody some insight? I know people have good results with Nylon for years. I just seem to not be able to get decent results.
Thanks a lot.
I got a good print from Taulman 645.
Let me guess, it’s pulling off the after about 1/4 of height, particularly on long skinny prints. I’m not an expert, but I correct for this by actually the opposite of what you did. My first layer I set to 80 degrees and all other layers 60. You gotta mitigate the temperature gradient from the bed and body to minimize the warping. I also use good old UHU glue stick for a little extra security. Now to really decrease warping and increase layer adhesion, I believe the only way is to increase chamber temp to at least 60 degrees…so it can match the bed temperature. But x1c can’t do that on its own. I’m working on adding a heater to the chamber but that’s taking some time to arrive…I’ll tell you if you wanna know if it helps. In the meantime I anneal the PA prints and have pretty decent results.
I will try that one. Thank you !
Thank you for sharing your experience.
I would be really interested to know how it works out with an additional heater.
Please share when you have tried it.
Thanks a lot!
I have some 645 Taulman that I’d like to try. It’s been in an Eibos dryer for a couple of days now. How did you make out? Did you start with a built-in material preset? Thanks.
I have tried printing with that, used the Generic PA preset. The only issue I had was it lifting from the bed, even though I used adhesive. I should try again some day - have had good luck with it on the Prusa in an enclosure.
Thanks. Well, in the meantime, I used the generic PC setting with temperatures for the nozzle adjusted little lower, and it worked like a charm.
Oops, forgot. I also cut most of the speed settings into about half. Maybe that wasn’t needed, but I’m so pleased with my first nylon print (Screw Lock Carabiner), that it may be a while before I try to tweak them. I bought one of those Swiss Miss all metal hotends for my FlashForge Creator Pro, and I never was able to achieve a level of quality approaching these results.
Also, you gotta try this Elmer’s glue stick. And did you flip your cool PLA mag sheet over to use Engineering? I also let the PC settings stand that includes a brim for larger parts. At least I’m assuming that’s what it did. I only had a brim on the largest piece, and I didn’t make any individual assignments. (or am I crazy?)
Added a single heater, max chamber temp I could reach was 50 degrees. But all the warping went away. I haven’t tested layer adhesion yet. And I just finished adding a second heater so it should be able to get closer to 60. Haven’t tried that yet. I have upgraded the cooling system on the board fan and also upgraded the chamber fan just because I prefer to modify when something is still working rather than replace when something has failed.
I tried to print nylon again today with the textured PEI plate that I just received yesterday, but I forgot to change the plate from Engineering to PEI in settings, and warping occurred. Rather than change the settings, I changed the plate back to Engineering and treated it with glue as I had before, and the print was once again successful. I will try again with textured PEI and corrected plate settings again, but I wondered if maybe something like that could have happened to you (incorrect plate settings).
Nylon is well known for warping. The longer on a single axis the more warping. The sometimes a wide brim can help but even with perfect adhesion warping will occur, at least for me. I think you will find most companies will promote chamber heating for successful nylon printing.
This is from Prusa Dear Jeremy,
If you require an enclosure, we sell enclosures at our E-shop, or you can of course make one yourself. It’s highly recommended to print Nylon with an enclosure. Nylon has a high melting point that makes it vulnerable to warping
What heater did you use and where did you place them?
Polymide COPA is by far the best thing I’ve ever used when it comes to nylon. No warping, no issues, just solid printing. I was so surprised. Of course you have to dry it really well but when you do, there is nothing wrong with it.
I used 2 300 w heaters with small fans in front and a bn-link wifi temperature controller. I set it to 55 c and warping stopped and layer adhesion is much better. If you want to copy, I’m happy to provide better instructions.
Did you adjust your temps for the copa? The generic seem a bit too hot.
I did not. Just adjusted some flow ratios and retraction length.
@Wiggi I’m surprised to read you even got good results with the Bambu PA-CF! I’m still fighting to find settings that enable Bambu PA-CF to print without warping in the X1C.
In my last test (which included 12+ hour filament drying + Magigoo PA glue + preheated chamber), the PA-CF stuck to the bed better/longer, but it caused the actual high temp print sheet to wrap at the edges under the strain.
Did you modify the stock printing profile for Bambu PA-CF to get better results?
I didn’t modify anything. It just worked out right away