As there is not much info on JUUPINE GECO plates and as I know there are lot’s of people looking for them, I decided to share my experience because I do have some thoughts after using one for a while.
So, I got 2 GECO plates for my X1C from Aliexpress have done quite few prints. Tried to experiment as much as possible and here is what can I say.
- Yes, I can confirm this plate has very good adhesion for PLA with no heating at all when You are printing on 20c+ room temperature as it is recommended by JUUPINE. Probably for enclosed printer like Bambu X1C it will work in colder environment, but I can’t confirm that as I had 20c-23c in room all the time.
- Printing on X1C without bed heating consumes around 40-45wats of power which is twice as less than if You printing on Bambu Cool Plate Supertac by heating bed to 45C which is roughly around 100wats (if I remember right). Measurements were taken with Tapo smart plug.
- When print is finished you can take it from your printer right away and by bending a plate it will come off very easy (even tend to fly away LoL).
- Plate is (or feels) a bit thicker and soft than any other steel plate I have used.
- I don’t know how it works in ORCA slicer as I use exclusively Bambu Studio but in Bambu Studio You will have to use a modified PLA profiles with changed Heating values to 1C for Textured PEI plate. Of course make sure Built Plate is set to Textured PEI.I have made custom PLA profiles for all PLA types I usually use. And just called them like “Bambu PLA Basic - GECO”, “Generic PLA - GECO” and so on. It is a bit gimmicky and even confusing but I don’t know another way at a moment. And here is one thing you have to AWARE off. When You are syncing filaments with a printer, they will drop to ones printer have. So before sending to print you have to recheck filament You are using that it is GECO one, not standard, as in other way plate will be heated to 60C and I’m not sure is it ok for plate. I made this mistake once and plate overheated gave me quite a bad smell. However it did work after just fine.
- GECO plate is very good I’d say for prints with smaller bed contact. I would say up to 70% from center. Maybe a bit more or a bit less. Hard to say. But if You are going to print something big, taking almost all plates surface - this plate is not for You. This is a most ugly thing I faced with GECO plate so far. And again, adhesion is very good (if not perfect). I had not a single adhesion issue yet. Problem is on another level. While plate holds your model on the surface very strong, plate itself are not able to hold itself on heatbed. In another words, it does not have enough magnetic power and if model tend to warp, it is taking GECO plate with it. So you are getting warper corners or sides not because of raping model but because of lifting plate. I did print 241mm x 202mm x 30mm rack and got it warped even when grip to the plate was perfect with no gaps at all, but all plate came out bent on longest side quite a lot. Printed this model quite a lot of times experimenting. Using a plate clips (can be found on Makerworld) helps a bit but does not resolve problem completely. I guess those printed clips are not able to hold this bending force here as Plates magnet is not helping here at all. I tried to reinforce them clips as much as I could and it got better, but not perfect. After lot of experimenting and tries and waste of lots of filament I just gave up and printed this rack on H2D and it came out absolutely perfect.
So Conclusion and my Verdict on JUUPINE GECO Plate
Very good plate with some very strong YES and one quite a big NO
YES
- Very good Adhesion (at least I didn’t have a single fail here on many prints)
- No Heating at all if room is 20C+ or 30C-40C heating in cooler environment
- Very easy release almost right away when print finished.
NO
- Not for full plate prints as Magnetic force is not strong enough to keep Plate in place.
AWARE OFF
- Have to make a custom filament profiles in Bambu Studio
- only for PLA
UNCONFIRMED
- This is just my guess. Not sure is this GECO pate made to last. By that I mean, that surface here feels quite soft and I’m not sure will be able to survive after hundred or few hundreds of uses. Probably it will, but I have some concerns about that.
p.s.
I agree, my writings maybe is not very intuitive, so I’m open for some questions 
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Great write up. Looks professional. And no edits 
Thanks for sharing.
Thank You. And I one more thing. Today I was thinking about that Magnetic issue. Probably there is a solution, but it will have some price. It’s just a steel plate and should be grabbed by Heat Beds Magnet as well as other plates. And probably problem here lies in a thickness of GECO plates surface stickers. As I said they look a bit thicker than other stickers (PEI, Cool e.t.c). At least ones I have used so far. And that could affect magnetic force here. Not 100% but it is possible. So… I’m going to try it out. Will have to half sacrifice one of my two Geco plates. I will peel sticker off from one side and will check how it will work then by putting bare steel plate on Heat Bed magnetic surface. Of course that could cause some Z offset issues but that should show up right away.
Actually it is pretty easy. If you want I can post a screen of settings, but don’t think it is neccesary as no much done there. So…
- As for settings, I’m using Textured PEI plate as my build plate in Bambu Studio. Next made copies of all PLA profiles I’m using (like Bambu Basic, Generic PLA, Generic PLA High Flow e.t.c) with word GECO in the name and made only one change in all of them. In build plate settings for Textured PEI plate in Both fields (Initial layer and for rest) I put Plate temperature to 1C. That’s it. If room where your printer is located is quite cool under 20C you probably will have to set that Plate temp to 35C instead of 1C. At least that how it is in instructions. It could be more relevant to open printers like A1 or P1P, but i can’t confirm this as I’m Using GECO plates on X1C and H2D only.
- My plates for X1C comes with Barcode (i think it imitates Bambu Textured PEI) . It came with additional sticker of other types as well. H2D plate have no Barcode. But for me it does not matter as when I use them I do turn off Plate Detection in printer settings.
I dont know are PLA CF are good for this plate but avoid printing PLA SILK on it as this will almost for sure damage the plate. And even as prints are comming off pretty easy from it, dont force when removing print. Sicker is quite soft and gentle and can be easily damaged, So if print does not pop up easily use a scraper. Bambu one is perfect .
And it is very important to recheck which filament you are using. As after synk it will drop back to standard ones, not ones you have made for GECO plate. And then printer will warm plate to 60C as it does for PEI.
Thanks for sharing your experience with the GECO plate! I’d like to add just one thing concerning the accedential heating you mentioned:
With my plate came a small set of instructions. And for “Maintain Build Plate” it reads → “After long-term repeated use, the plate needs to be repaired and cleaned. Set the temperature to 55°C and print the first layer that occupies the entire plate. Remove the first layer immediately after printing. This will restore the plate’s adhesion to its original state.”
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Great review! Thank you 
One thought about the plate type: I think it would simplify profile management if you use textured cool plate as plate type. then you don’t have to duplicate profiles but you just can set temp in the existing profiles for that plate.
I’m using Orca Slicer, so I’m not sure if that plate is available in BambuStudio. If not, you can use any other plate type you don’t use otherwise. Maybe you have to adjust z-distance in the machine settings.
In Bambu Studio You can Use Bambu Supertac cool pate as printing one. But there will be compromises as well. On my scenario Plate heating is not turning on at all. If You will use cool Plate in profile it will heat up to 35c anyway. Which is not much, but is more than nothing . Of Course if there is a plate You are not using at all, you can use it (if it is compatible with PLA) and change temp in all filament profiles. Either ways are not perfect, so use which one you like more
@Warlogh thank you for that review! But I do have a question regarding this plate. I just got it, but I’m using it on Bambu A1 Mini - my question:
- is your plate also heating to 30C even if you set it to 1C?
I set mine to 1C and I made sure, that all of the filaments have changed settings. But still…at first it was 28C and during the print it slightly went up to 30C…And by time it’s getting higher and higher. Currently during print it’s already 32C - and it says 32/1C…Not quite sure if this is something we want to have…
Yap. Plates temp usually is around 30C. But it corresponds with chamber Temp of my X1C where I’m using it so I did assume that it is natural warm up from the ambient. Don’t think heatbed is heating plate as it is set up to 1C. Maybe I will try later it on A1 when I’ll be back from my holidays.
By the way I’m still very happy with it. At this point I have used GECO plates a lot. Have one for H2D as well and it works there flawlessly. Not a single issue. After a LOTS of prints I even haven’t washed them plates. Just light cleanup from dust with a brush. In some cases I do prefer Bambu Cool Plate Supertac for PLA but GECO have one very strong winning point here. It’s adhesion is very good, but removing Model from plate is very VERY easier than from Supertac one. Print routine is just like that … set print…finish print… remove model and set next print right away. If You do everything right, no cleanup or any other moves needed.
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Juupine did a weird fake review post on Facebook where an employee pretended to be a customer (including changing the name on their facebook account to western male from chinese female).
heh. haven’t seen any of their adverts or reviews. at least don’t recal any 
. first heared about this plate here on Bambu forum somewhere when it was just out and decide to give it a try
Small update here. After latest H2D firmware upgrade (was done today on 14.08.2023) Getting Buildplate offset error Warning no matter buildplate is aligned perfectly. ignoring this warning works with no problem. Bambu PEI plate works with bo issues.So probably last H2D Firmware update brought another annoynment for GECO (probably other non Bambu) plate users.
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Thanks man I was looking for some information on this. It is sadly a bit annoying, like one manual confirmation before each print or completely turn off build plate detection.
Other than that I am very happy with the Geco plate. Using it almost exclusive for the last month with no problems besides that. Cutting my energy cost by more than half
I bought the plate some months ago and used it again today to print some PLA Silk. It has poor layer adhesion. Together with the very good adhesion of the GECO plate, I was left with the two bottom layers staying on the bed when trying to remove my prints.
PSA: Don’t use the GECO plate with PLA that has poor layer adhesion.
@Warlogh: Do you still have your instructions leaflet? Would you mind sending me a photo or adding it to the thread, please? Thanks.
I will try to find out that leaflet. If I’ll find it i will post image here.
Not sure about some CF or GF PLA filaments as i haven’t yried them on GECO yet, but Silk ones definitely you shouldn’t print using it. A have seen posts of images of destroyed GECO plate because of Silk PLA
Hi, I’m also having the problem that when printing large objects, the entire Geco plate lifts off the heated bed. The metal doesn’t adhere well to the bed’s magnet. Were you able to test removing the adhesive coating from one side to improve the metal’s adhesion? I’d like to know so I can try the same thing. Sorry for the poor English; I’m using a translator. Thank you very much.
Hi, I’m also having the problem that when printing large objects, the entire Geco plate lifts off the heated bed. The metal doesn’t adhere well to the bed’s magnet. Were you able to test removing the adhesive coating from one side to improve the metal’s adhesion? I’d like to know so I can try the same thing. Sorry for the poor English; I’m using a translator. Thank you very much.