A small review on JUUPINE GECO plate

Other topics
1

As there is not much info on JUUPINE GECO plates and as I know there are lot’s of people looking for them, I decided to share my experience because I do have some thoughts after using one for a while.

So, I got 2 GECO plates for my X1C from Aliexpress have done quite few prints. Tried to experiment as much as possible and here is what can I say.

  1. Yes, I can confirm this plate has very good adhesion for PLA with no heating at all when You are printing on 20c+ room temperature as it is recommended by JUUPINE. Probably for enclosed printer like Bambu X1C it will work in colder environment, but I can’t confirm that as I had 20c-23c in room all the time.
  2. Printing on X1C without bed heating consumes around 40-45wats of power which is twice as less than if You printing on Bambu Cool Plate Supertac by heating bed to 45C which is roughly around 100wats (if I remember right). Measurements were taken with Tapo smart plug.
  3. When print is finished you can take it from your printer right away and by bending a plate it will come off very easy (even tend to fly away LoL).
  4. Plate is (or feels) a bit thicker and soft than any other steel plate I have used.
  5. I don’t know how it works in ORCA slicer as I use exclusively Bambu Studio but in Bambu Studio You will have to use a modified PLA profiles with changed Heating values to 1C for Textured PEI plate. Of course make sure Built Plate is set to Textured PEI.I have made custom PLA profiles for all PLA types I usually use. And just called them like “Bambu PLA Basic - GECO”, “Generic PLA - GECO” and so on. It is a bit gimmicky and even confusing but I don’t know another way at a moment. And here is one thing you have to AWARE off. When You are syncing filaments with a printer, they will drop to ones printer have. So before sending to print you have to recheck filament You are using that it is GECO one, not standard, as in other way plate will be heated to 60C and I’m not sure is it ok for plate. I made this mistake once and plate overheated gave me quite a bad smell. However it did work after just fine.
  6. GECO plate is very good I’d say for prints with smaller bed contact. I would say up to 70% from center. Maybe a bit more or a bit less. Hard to say. But if You are going to print something big, taking almost all plates surface - this plate is not for You. This is a most ugly thing I faced with GECO plate so far. And again, adhesion is very good (if not perfect). I had not a single adhesion issue yet. Problem is on another level. While plate holds your model on the surface very strong, plate itself are not able to hold itself on heatbed. In another words, it does not have enough magnetic power and if model tend to warp, it is taking GECO plate with it. So you are getting warper corners or sides not because of raping model but because of lifting plate. I did print 241mm x 202mm x 30mm rack and got it warped even when grip to the plate was perfect with no gaps at all, but all plate came out bent on longest side quite a lot. Printed this model quite a lot of times experimenting. Using a plate clips (can be found on Makerworld) helps a bit but does not resolve problem completely. I guess those printed clips are not able to hold this bending force here as Plates magnet is not helping here at all. I tried to reinforce them clips as much as I could and it got better, but not perfect. After lot of experimenting and tries and waste of lots of filament I just gave up and printed this rack on H2D and it came out absolutely perfect.

So Conclusion and my Verdict on JUUPINE GECO Plate

Very good plate with some very strong YES and one quite a big NO

YES

  • Very good Adhesion (at least I didn’t have a single fail here on many prints)
  • No Heating at all if room is 20C+ or 30C-40C heating in cooler environment
  • Very easy release almost right away when print finished.

NO

  • Not for full plate prints as Magnetic force is not strong enough to keep Plate in place.

AWARE OFF

  • Have to make a custom filament profiles in Bambu Studio
  • only for PLA

UNCONFIRMED

  • This is just my guess. Not sure is this GECO pate made to last. By that I mean, that surface here feels quite soft and I’m not sure will be able to survive after hundred or few hundreds of uses. Probably it will, but I have some concerns about that.

p.s.
I agree, my writings maybe is not very intuitive, so I’m open for some questions :slight_smile:

4 Likes
2

Great write up. Looks professional. And no edits :wink: Thanks for sharing.

3

Thank You. And I one more thing. Today I was thinking about that Magnetic issue. Probably there is a solution, but it will have some price. It’s just a steel plate and should be grabbed by Heat Beds Magnet as well as other plates. And probably problem here lies in a thickness of GECO plates surface stickers. As I said they look a bit thicker than other stickers (PEI, Cool e.t.c). At least ones I have used so far. And that could affect magnetic force here. Not 100% but it is possible. So… I’m going to try it out. Will have to half sacrifice one of my two Geco plates. I will peel sticker off from one side and will check how it will work then by putting bare steel plate on Heat Bed magnetic surface. Of course that could cause some Z offset issues but that should show up right away.

4
  1. Can you post the settings you used?
  2. Did your plate come with little QR code stickers?
5

Actually it is pretty easy. If you want I can post a screen of settings, but don’t think it is neccesary as no much done there. So…

  1. As for settings, I’m using Textured PEI plate as my build plate in Bambu Studio. Next made copies of all PLA profiles I’m using (like Bambu Basic, Generic PLA, Generic PLA High Flow e.t.c) with word GECO in the name and made only one change in all of them. In build plate settings for Textured PEI plate in Both fields (Initial layer and for rest) I put Plate temperature to 1C. That’s it. If room where your printer is located is quite cool under 20C you probably will have to set that Plate temp to 35C instead of 1C. At least that how it is in instructions. It could be more relevant to open printers like A1 or P1P, but i can’t confirm this as I’m Using GECO plates on X1C and H2D only.
  2. My plates for X1C comes with Barcode (i think it imitates Bambu Textured PEI) . It came with additional sticker of other types as well. H2D plate have no Barcode. But for me it does not matter as when I use them I do turn off Plate Detection in printer settings.

I dont know are PLA CF are good for this plate but avoid printing PLA SILK on it as this will almost for sure damage the plate. And even as prints are comming off pretty easy from it, dont force when removing print. Sicker is quite soft and gentle and can be easily damaged, So if print does not pop up easily use a scraper. Bambu one is perfect .

And it is very important to recheck which filament you are using. As after synk it will drop back to standard ones, not ones you have made for GECO plate. And then printer will warm plate to 60C as it does for PEI.

6

Thanks for sharing your experience with the GECO plate! I’d like to add just one thing concerning the accedential heating you mentioned:
With my plate came a small set of instructions. And for “Maintain Build Plate” it reads → “After long-term repeated use, the plate needs to be repaired and cleaned. Set the temperature to 55°C and print the first layer that occupies the entire plate. Remove the first layer immediately after printing. This will restore the plate’s adhesion to its original state.”

1 Like
7

Great review! Thank you :slightly_smiling_face:

One thought about the plate type: I think it would simplify profile management if you use textured cool plate as plate type. then you don’t have to duplicate profiles but you just can set temp in the existing profiles for that plate.

I’m using Orca Slicer, so I’m not sure if that plate is available in BambuStudio. If not, you can use any other plate type you don’t use otherwise. Maybe you have to adjust z-distance in the machine settings.