The setting I posted are for a Generic PLA+ or Silk…not Bambu.
I haven’t tried there’s yet, and really don’t plan to at this time.
The Dual Silks I used are from Mika3D.
It could actually be both. The clog is the result of the extruder not creating enough pressure in the nozzle. Most dual color silk is not round, it tend to be more oval. I’ve been printing with silk on many projects and have had 0 issues. But I’ve only printed single color silk. Check your extruder, look for signs that the filament is getting chewed up. silks are much softer than standard PLA so a little slippage can grind gashes in your filament, Then it won’t feed properly.
Oh is this a single extruder or the AMS Lite? I’ve fount that if your bend on your bowden tubes is to sharp the filaments tend to hang and jam. No tight curves only gentle smooth bends. Trying to have your filament do a sharp bend is a recipe for a problem.
Seeya
M1
Ok, I think you may be onto something. I tried printing again with the changes to volumetric speed etc, and the filament wouldnt feed through. I disconnected the tubing (I use the AMS Lite) and pulled out the Dual Silk PLA and this is what the end of it looked like, the end trying but failing to feed into nozzle.
The bowden tubes are smooth, no bends. The issue may be the extruder having an issue grabbing the filament. Any recommendations?
To be safe, I cleaned the Extruder gears, they seem to be good. Nothing in it, cleaned with compressed air etc.
I’ve noticed the same on my dual-silks that fail to print.
I’ve done a comparison, and my Blue-Magenta dual silk purchased in January still prints fine. My Blue-Magenta purchased in February, fresh out of the packaging, clogs the extruder and fails to print. So, I think something went wrong with their manufacturing process and the newer silks are defective.
I can confirm oval on my dual silk from Bambu. The A1 extruder gears slip on it and fail to extrude - not a clog. See pics below - you can see the gears tear up the surface of the filament, and there aren’t any deep teeth marks on it. Also the measurement in 2 directions. The A1 Mini failed to complete the calibration pattern print twice.
1 Like
Don’t take this the wrong way but I’m glad its happening to you, cause that means its not just me and it seems to be an issue with the Dual Silk itself and not my machine. Very frustrating still. Waste of money if we cant properly use it…
Hopefully the supplier gets some equipment in the production line to detect things like this and prevent these going out in the future. Money - I think Bambu will sort this out (as you say, it’s not just me! So it’s pretty clear it’s a batch issue). The time spent troubleshooting, filling out the ticket, waiting for the new filament, not having the right filament for my project, etc. is the annoying part…
I just opened a support ticket and referenced this thread so we shall see…
Can I ask you guys a question? Since we’ve proven the oval shape is an issue, are you using the AMS Lite to feed it? Reason I’m asking is that the damage my be starting in the AMS Lite extruder and getting multiplied in the main extruder. Have you tried feeding from without the AMS Lite. You might be able to adjust the main extruder to overcome the lack of roundness.
Seeya
M1
I think the tension on the main toolhead is already at max. I don’t have an ams lite, I’m feeding it from a filament dryer with bearing rollers to reduce friction and pulling force, through a short PTFE tube. I tried raising the temp 5 deg to 235 and reduced the max volumetric flowrate from 12 to 4mm3/s. I got 4 hours into a print and it failed… (it was not a big print but 4mm3/s is super slow, it’s TPU speed!)
this is very similar to issues I have feeding Matte PLA, the extruder gear chews it up. I haven’t had this issue with silk at all, but I don’t have any Bambu Silk. I have noticed that the feed issue with Matte has only gotten worse over time.
The only solution for me was to switch to the external spool, haven’t had the issue from there.
My next printer will be a dual-gear extruder. 
That’s interesting, I know it’s not convenient to stand an watch a print. But what happens if you put some slack on the filament? When you have an AMS LITE that in effect equals a push pull extruder system. so there should be very little tension of the filament in the tube if all is working correctly.
There is a screw on the side of the extruder to adjust tension. Another thing to look at is the extruder and check the condition. That is supposed to be a hardened extruder, that’s fine for carbon fiber and abrasives, but maybe it’s to hard for softer filaments.
Just a couple thoughts.
M1
Hey, the screw tension is at the factory setting - which is screw wound all the way in (max grip). The gears I haven’t checked but this is a very new printer - less than 100h printing, and mostly TPU and PLA basic, so I think the gears should be fine, I don’t want to open it up right now.
If I stand there and push the filament in to the PTFE tube constantly, I think it will print (I’m not sure that that is what the AMS lite does). But I would be standing there for hours and hours!!!
Omg I didn’t know this was a single gear extruder! (Of course I should have noticed that there is gripping marks on one side of the filament)
Very small amount of experimenting says, yes, taking tension off of the filament probably helps, but, so? It only verifies what I know already, additional drag/tension of the AMS is a problem. Since I moved to only using the external spool for matte, I have had zero issues, not one single failure.
On my A1, the extruder gear tension was set at absolute full max from the factory. It took a bit of effort to loosen the screw. I did back it off some, but it didn’t seem to affect anything. Backing off more might help, but I don’t have the time or desire to screw around with it, since failure may or may not happen, and if it does, it’s usually an hour or more into the print. It would take running a ton of prints to truly work out any possible improvements. If I wanted that, I could have bought an Ender. Just easier to put the spool on the external. I’ve got my AMS set right now to only use three positions, so I can leave the external spool hooked up.
Note to BL, the AMS is great, but you REALLY should leave a path for the external spool without having to connect/disconnect things. It’s even worse for the P1/X1 folks.
I just tried this in my P1S with AMS to see if I can extrude it. I have never had AMS issues and I’m using a 1 month old AMS here. With this filament, I’m getting both retract and load errors. The feeder gears really grind it up because it can’t get a good grip. Now my AMS tubes are full of red and blue dust so I’m gonna need to take it apart and clean it so it doesn’t contaminate the lighter colours. This is so annoying…
The measurement is from a new section, not the ground up section.
As an aside, the layer adhesion is very poor, even increasing the temp to 235 and lowering the max flowrate to 4 and printing directly from a filament dryer:
And bridging infill, even if it’s straight on top of solid infill, will not stick at all:
I think that filamet is BAD, but if you want to print it you can try these mod! i made for flexible I am shore that will help!
1 Like