I’m looking to upgrade my A1 to the A2L for an improved print volume. However, I’m not quite sure it will fit in my current environment.
Would be awesome to get some info from someone who owns an A2L to determine if it’s possible or not. I can not fulfil the clearances req. by BambuLab, but I think these figures are exaggerated to accomodate for full cable clearances.
This is what my space looks like. I’m thinking I will find a suitable position for the AMS unit mounted to the ceiling. Ideally, the front of the printer is aligned with the front of the drawer, but if necessary It can protrude slightly.
Adding this, a Bambu rep said the bed protrudes about 10cm from the rear edge of the printer which gives me about 14cm to the rear edge (7cm to the radiator)
The A1 series, in particular, but also the A2 series, require a heat-resistant surface. There is a potential fire hazard here, and this is not just in reference to the issues the A1 series had, but as a general rule. Even if you stick with the A1 series, you’re in for a real fire hazard.
Printers also need space on the left and right sides because that’s where the ventilation slots are located, allowing heat to escape. You also need to keep a safe distance from the walls. The same applies if your radiator is on. This increases the risk mentioned in point one.
Make sure you include at least one thin stone slab and leave space between the left and right walls. The stone slab is also useful for stopping the printer vibrating and moving around.
I’d consider whether you could replace the cabinet underneath or, at the very least, make the whole thing fireproof and ensure that air can circulate. The fact that there’s some fabric hanging on the right side that could fall down makes it perfect. You’ve really created a hazard there.
Now, regarding Bambu’s clearance instructions: You can generally rely on them. The reason you need so much space in the back is the cable: It needs to be able to move freely and must not get bent or caught on anything.
Like I said, before you start worrying about that, you have much bigger problems - you have a potential fire hazard. I think that’s the bigger problem, because it’s life-threatening. And no, I’m not exaggerating - a 3D printer like that isn’t a toy.
No insurance company will cover that if you don’t follow the guidelines.
If you keep the A1, check to see if you still have the old circuit board in there - it can burn out - and consider replacing it with a new one, but that’s just a side note.
The ignition temperature of paper, and most fabrics is above 280.
Most open printers running PLA or PETG aren’t going to set that off even if it somehow flaps into the open machine. Unless it’s an old A1 without the repair, in which case the problem should be addressed there instead.
I can’t comment on what insurers will or won’t touch. It will likely depend on whether it’s a business policy (which is very strict) or home policy (which is more lenient) and which countrry the OP is in.
Thank you for the concern, but I’m mainly looking for info regarding whether it will fit or not.
I’m not trying to downplay safety precautions, but I struggle to find any of the official posts/document from Bambu Lab describing the requirements you state. From what I can find, the only thing that is mentioned regarding the A1 is to avoid enclosures and to place it in a well-ventilated environment (which my room is, the radiator is never on, and there’s an air vent that cycles air to the room continuously).
Feel free to provide documentation of your claims (not that it doesn’t make sense). I just haven’t seen anything like that being stated as a requirement. I’m sure Bambu would clearly state some of these things if they were a fire hazard for legal reasons.
I’ll post the information later. By the way, you should still check the A1 just to be on the safe side: If your printer is a bit older, you’re probably affected.
”Based on official Bambu Lab documentation, there is no specific requirement stating that the A1 must be placed on a “heat-resistant surface” due to a general fire risk from the base of the printer. However, there are critical safety warnings regarding the heatbed cable and environmental ventilation that you should be aware of.
”The claim that the A1 needs space specifically for “ventilation slots on the left and right sides” to allow heat to escape is not supported by the official A1 documentation.
General Recommendation: For all Bambu Lab printers, the general FAQ recommends at least 10 cm (approx. 4 inches) of clearance on each side of the printer for general cooling and ventilation.”
As I said, read the linked thread first and then we can talk some more. You might see things from a different perspective. You don’t have to take my advice - it’s just a suggestion.
I like the idea of taking precautions, but I dont see a reason to drag the A2L into the fire hazard category. Same way that the A1 mini was never dragged into that.
It has a different board design, plus it is heavily shielded.
I see the A1 as a problem child. Not the rule.
451 F. One of the only books I enjoyed from high school.
CincinnatiDesigns, I appreciate your opinion, but please read my comment carefully again. It’s about the basic setup - I would recommend this to any printer - regardless of the manufacturer:
Printer open? = Place on a fire-resistant surface.
Fabric hanging right next to the printer? = Bad idea.
Move the printer close to the heater? = Not ideal
There must be enough space on the left and right sides away from the wall so that air can circulate.
Every printer is a potential hazard. Especially with open designs. Especially in this context, it’s easy to fix, since a fireproof mat or stone really isn’t a financial burden. The point here is to consider whether the cabinet underneath could be converted into a suitable workspace for a printer.
Please keep the context of my comment in mind: A 3D printer is, after all, not a toy.
But as I said, I value your opinion, and this isn’t specifically about the A1, nor A2 - it’s about how to set up your workspace for any 3D printer.
3D Printing Safety Guide
Edit: By the way, I’ve taken note of your downvote; it seems you have a fundamentally different understanding of safety and what constitutes a proper 3D printer environment.
In that case, I suppose we’ll just have to fall back on the good old saying: “Agree to disagree.”
Other than that, I don’t really have anything else to say: These are just suggestions on my part; no one has to follow them.
I just took these, so you can see how much space o dedicated to it.
The bottom shots have a ruler in them.
My guess is, the space you showed is too small in all directions.
I have mine hooked up to an AMS as I had one spare and I did not purchase the AMS lite because of this. The position of my AMS complicates things and I have to design a suitable arm to safely manage the PTFE tube for taller jobs.
If I can provide any other measurements, photos or other you think would be useful, just ask.
I will take in mind the context, but for the sake of being specific, you said required, not recommended.
That is why I acknowledged that taking precautions is a good idea. But I wouldnt stop someone from using their printer if they do not have a heat resistant surface.
Anyway, you revised your wording so there is no reason to go any farther into it.
My thumbs down was not targeted towards safety aspects. It was targeted towards the threat of moderation (which seems overboard and off character for you).
Thank you very much for the photos, this helps a lot.
If I could request some additional information, it would be how much the bed extends past the rear edge of the printer, as well as how much the bed cable needs to be extended without causing any bending concerns (measurement).
I could move the printer forward to add more clearance behind it, which seems to be the most critical area for my space. Is it possible for you to check how much “overhang” I could have without the feet falling off the tabletop? Worst case, I’d have to extend it with a larger panel.
I have sufficient room in front of the printer, and I believe I can manage to clear space on the sides as well as the top of the printer with a clever placement of the AMS unit.
The very front feet are fake and are made from soft foam. The real feet are slightly behind, more centred near the y axis rail and made from firm rubber. So the printer could sit more forward than that. Here is a pic I took while I was designing my AMS drawer for the A2L - I’m not home to measure it though sorry
