About to place order with a few questions

After a bit of research between buying an X1 and building a Ratrig, I have decided to buy the X1 for fast prints and just use my Ender 5+ for large prints where time is not a big deal. Also I want the X1 to print PC and some GF reinforced materials. I am considering adding some filament as well as some .6 nozzles and see that I can buy the nozzle and heatbreak only or nozzle and fan. I am guessing that if I want easy changes then it makes sense to order with the fan. Is this correct. Also if I print PC I imagine I can get away with a .4 nozzle but if I print say PET-CF will I need a .6 nozzle.

So what is involved in a Nozzle swap and is it easier with a nozzle and fan combo?

Also in regards to the AMS I asked this before but really did not understand te responses. Seems some filaments (PET-CF) are not AMS compatible. When using the side spool for PET-GF do I need to remove all the filaments from the AMS or can they still be installed and the side spool enters at a lower point. Ie can I have 1 material in the side spool and 4 in the AMS and switch between so long as when using the AMS I retract the side spool material out of the filament track to allow the AMS filament to pass into the nozzle?

If all goes well my plan will be to have mostly .6 nozzles installed and in the AMS have PC, PETG, PLA and maybe a break away support filament. In the side spool will be the PET-CF

Thoughts?

Nozzle Swap, How To Change A Bambu Lab Nozzle For Under $15! - YouTube

And your second question, just leave the spools in the AMS, they will have retracted at the end of print. Side-load and unload via the touchscreen.

The nozzle only swap is quite a bit more work then swaping the entire hotend assembly. For the whole part to swap, you just unscrew 2 screws, pull 3 cable plugs and remove the whole hotend. The new one gets placed in, the cables reattached and the screws fixed back in. It took me 5 minutes the first time, but with a bit of experience it will go much faster. Hardest part is actually plugging in the cables again if you have fat fingers like me. I would suggest getting a whole assembly instead of just the nozzle, much easier and worth the extra cost for different nozzle sizes.#

A 0.4 nozzle is capable of printing reinforced materials, but a 0.6 nozzle would be better suited for it, though in my tests I had no clogs with a 0.4 nozzle and CF filaments yet.

If you want to use the spoolholder, you needs to unplug the PTFE tube on the back of the printer and feed the filament into the printer. It takes less then a minute to do and all the filament can remain in the AMS. Or you can print yourself a Y-Splitter and skip the unplugging. Both is very easy to do. But you cannot use the AMS and the filament spool holder together, if you want to use the spool holder and switch materials, you can do that with manual pauses in the slicer and switch filament manually.