ABS Crushing

What do you folks recommend for a print that crushes against the built plate? this is a 70mm thin disk with a 2mm thick tang to the left. The curved surface was against the build plate. this is in ABS with standard settings. Thanks

I don’t what I’m looking at here. Can you post an image from the slicer so we can see the model orientation? Also it would help if we could see two different angles so that we can better understand the geometry that is being printed.

It’s gotta be upside down. It warped. ABS is one of the hardest plastics to print because it changes size so much going from molten to solid.


sorry about not being clear. the bowed surface is against the build plate and in the Y direction of the machine. So it might be rocking front to back. cool shape that I couldn’t make if I wanted too.

I added glue to the build plate but I’m wondering if this is a case of bad bed adhesion combined with the part being pretty soft when to took it off? what do the experts say?

OK. NOW that we have the understanding of the orientation of the shape. It’s obvious what’s happening. You threw me off because you had the photo upside down so it wasn’t obvious where the curve was coming from. We can now see it’s curling up from the bed.

You can easily see this because when we orient the part in the photo correctly, we can see the parallel layer lines with the bed but the warping occurs near the contact with the bed and the part. This is a classic ABS warping challenge.

This is classic warping caused by improperly bed adhesion. The solutions are as follows:

  • Hotter chamber temps
  • Hotter bed
  • Limited or no chamber fan cooling. In fact, turn the chamber fan off if you have one.
  • Bed Adhesive
    From the photo, you obviously already have the glue and I’m assuming you used it to no avail. So the other three options should help.

Also, if you’re not using a smooth plate, you may want to. ABS is not compatible with textured PEI and the engineering and high temp plates actually produce better results.

Or… switch to PETG, smells less and is comparable in properties albeit not as strong but good enough.

I print quite a lot of ABS, ABS+ and ABS Max. Mostly eSun branded. I love it as a filament.
I use the eSun profiles unchanged and usually the high temperature plate. I use 3dlac as an adhesive/release agent because it’s convenient, easy to apply and lasts for ages.
But for very large parts that have a tendency to lift off, make some ABS “juice”. Take that warped part, break it up and put in a sealed jar (glass) and pour some acetone over it and leave overnight. Enough to cover the bits plus a bit more. In the morning you’ll have a liquid ABS/acetone mix which you can brush on very thinly. The acetone will dry off quickly, leaving a thin coat that freshly laid ABS will stick to very well.
The main thing you need to do to prevent warping is turn the print bed on at 100,°c for 10-15 minutes with everything closed up prior to printing. This should get your chamber temp up to around 40-45,°c and will keep it there while printing.
Now the ASA I’ve tried, I find it’s much more susceptible to warping and I struggle to get a good print from it.

thanks for the tips. I got it to work by heating the bed for a long time and putting a thick layer of glue on the bed. then I let it cool down for a long time just to be safe.

I just have the build plate that came with the machine. I’ll have to find another source for a smooth plate. any recommendations for a source in the states would help.

You’ll want to bookmark the Bambu Lab filament guide and print a hard copy. It’s indispensable. I keep a hard copy nearby. Except one thing though. They stated texture PEI, I have a ruined plate to testify that this is simply not true for ABS.