I recently switched from PLA to ABS on my P1S and the results have been pretty horrible. I was told ABS is much stronger and better for functional objects but this seems to be the opposite of my experience. Everything is extremely brittle. I’m having zero problems with bed adhesion. I’m not seeing any signs of moisture in the filament. The flat surfaces look good. I’ve tried three spools so far, the first is a hatch box the other two from Bambu. I initially printed the hatchbox with the incorrect settings and had it way too hot. I noticed when I pulled it out that the print quality looked horrible and extremely hazy with a rough surface. Turns out their max temp coincides with the minimum temp of Bambu ABS. I’m trying to print small ammo cases, and they’re literally falling apart and the hinges snap off immediately. I used Bambu’s recommended settings. If this is how good ABS prints on the P1S then I’m returning all the Bambu spools that I recently ordered and sticking with PLA.
Have you tried manually calibrating your filaments. FYI: In my experience, Bambu filament quality is often subpar compared to competitors products. Also, relying on factory settings is also a poor recipe for success. Bambu has changed processes and methods and it’s become clear that they have not tuned their filaments since the introduction of Bambu Studio. Only PETG HF which is a newer filament has been added.
Consider downloading Orca Slicer and searching for the hundreds of posts on manual tuning. The first thing it will do is to liberate you from being chained to factory settings and ensure that you are as dialed-in as you can get. The second thing is that it will enabled to use anyone’s filament regardless of whether they have a Bambu Profile or not.
And last but not least. Your model may not be well suited to ABS. If you post a screengrab as it sits on your slicer or 3MF of your model that would allow the community to give you some feedback on whether or not there are elements in the slicer settings that may help. Also, don’t discount PETG. It may be better suited to your model.
Where do I find these hundreds of posts on manual tuning of ABS? I’m not finding them. The search feature here leaves a lot to be desired.
I bought the Bambu P1S specifically because its not supposed to require a ton of fiddling around and constant tweaking and problem solving like the AnyCubic I threw in the trash. If trying to get a successful print involves days of frustration and guessing due to a lack of support and correct data from Bambu then I’m having regrets about buying it.
I’m not exactly sure what you may be missing. This forum’s search tools are no better or worse than those of many other discussion platforms, except with the advantage of being ad-free. However, if you’re seeking quick answers without the need for reading, this discussion format might not suit you. I don’t have alternative suggestions, as this is common across the internet. Reddit, perhaps? If that’s the format you’re accustomed to, then sure, but at least here, there are no ads to deal with. There’s also YouTube which is my favorite.
Here’s a short tutorial with examples on the forum’s search tool. Start by clicking on the magnifying glass and then enter your search terms. I’ve included links for convenience.
https://forum.bambulab.com/search?q=filament%20calibration
Another example using a different search term.
https://forum.bambulab.com/search?q=filament%20tuning
Here’s one of the threads on that topic that was quite popular but there are many more.
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Or if you prefer Google. Try this trick. Place the search term in quotes and use the “site:” modifier to confine Google’s answers to only those in this forum. This is how that should look in your search bar.
"Filament Calibration" site:forum.bambulab.com
If you surround the search term with quote, Google will look for the exact phrase. If you don’t it will give you every post that has either or word in it which you don’t want.
And here is the direct link to that formatted search term in google: https://www.google.com/search?q=%22filament+calibration%22+site%3Aforum.bambulab.com&num=100
The main thing ABS beats PLA in is heat resistance. ABS is slightly more impact resistant but PLA has more tensile strength. Have you thought about using PC?
3D printing may be “push button- receive articulated dragon”, but once you move into more complicated designs and filaments, this is just not the case. At least some level of work and skill will be required to achieve “good” prints.
A bad print isn’t instantly the fault of the manufacturer. You will need to follow the proper steps to ensure things go as well as possible. And even then, if the design sucks, the results can still be poor.
As far as the “brittle” comment, Do you mean poor layer adhesion- as in the prints crack and separate at the layers? Some pics as suggested above would/could help the people here suggest improvements that might streamline the process for you.
That was very well articulated reality that many newcomers overlook. This technology still isn’t at the state where one can simply slap in an ink cartridge and press print. Someday maybe, but not today… and tomorrow isn’t looking that promising either. 
I wonder when will we just buy a huge 3D printer and just print a rocket engine instead of going through the process of material studying, physic studying, designing testing… too much extra stuffs we’d have to learn. Rocket science is not that hard right? Just oxygen + fuel = thrust force, right? Same for melting some plastic and squeezing through a small hole, right?
Here ya go!!! No Bambu Logo though.
Exactly what I am refering to. Though, this is open frame printer, not good for ABS at all.
I love the sarcasm here like I’m just too stupid to know what I’m doing. I’m not new to 3-D printing. I work in education and have used makerbots to teach 3D printing and 3D design. So I’m used to the normal issues of bed adhesion, failed prints, etc. And as a former Anycubic owner I learned really quick to do my own self diagnosing on problems and be prepared for the machine to just stop working correctly at least once every week or two. I specifically jumped to the Bambu because it’s supposed to be tried and true. If I’m using Bambu filament on a Bambu machine using Bambu recommended settings and the prints are absolute failures the insinuation that somehow it’s my fault for not doing my homework is beyond absurd. I can understand tweaking from their settings to improve it, but have it be a complete failure? That’s unacceptable. I didn’t build this 3D printer from scratch where I am in no mans land learning how to use it.
I went through the calibration process on the hatchbox ABA I’m using. Surprise surprise, it came back within the generic specs that I was already using.
I had far better luck searching over at Reddit and reading Amazon reviews on ABS products than searching for specs here. Someone was kind enough to post all their specs on an Amazon review of the filament. I ran another test print cutting all my speeds in half, raised the infill slightly, and set the temperatures of the filaments at the maximum they were rated for and the print looks much better. I’m not seeing the same layer adhesion problems or separation that I was before. Unfortunately it doesn’t seem to be any stronger overall. It seems to have zero strength between the layers so if there’s any friction on moving parts it separates immediately.
I’d love to post photos directly from my iPhone, but it’s giving me an error saying I need to compress all my photos first.
What are your fan settings? Try to keep the fan speed as low as possible.
The fan speed is set to only 10%.
Sounds like you are still seeing layer adhesion problems, just perhaps not quite as severe?
I’d figure out the pics and post a few. That will be the best path forward.
Well, as an educator, you surely understand the importance of research and reading. However, your question was a textbook beginner-level inquiry, and your sarcastic follow-up only reinforced that impression. If you possess extensive knowledge and experience, the community has no way of knowing that when you ask a question typical of a novice. The responses you received were based solely on how your question was framed—nothing more.
Perhaps you should take a moment to review the effort and research that was put into the responses provided. Nobody here is a paid volunteer; everyone is a fellow 3D printing enthusiast. This is not the way to foster quality engagement, and if you find fewer people willing to help you, you may want to consider how your tone affects the discussion.
What on earth are you talking about? The P1S is not an open frame printer.
About this “open frame printer”
And yeah, I am mocking people who thinks 3D printers
without understanding the science behind it.