I never had this issue switching between ABS/ASA/PETG/PLA on the X1C. First issue started on the right nozzle when I was trying to load TPU after having run ABS the day before. I just barely got it unclogged, I thought it was the TPU until today.
On the left nozzle I went to run PLA after running ABS yesterday. clicking noises. Tried to push PETG through instead, click, click, click. I noticed it was trying rather low temps to purge the nozzle, so I manually set it to 290 and tried to advance the filament through to push out the old ABS. Nope. I tried everything, cold pulls, nothing was budging the ABS. An extremely small amount oozed out during all of that effort, but not enough to dislodge it. I had to use the extra 0.4mm nozzle that came with the H2D, after only 1 week of printing, because for some reason, this thing canāt handle swapping between ABS and lower temp filament.
I should also note, all filaments are Bambu filaments. Including the PLA/PETG HF/ABS/TPU. Not sure what Iām going to do with this nozzle now. I tried to use a heat gun on it and a hex wrench to push it out, no luck. Might try going the other way and pushing the nozzle needle through the bottom. But this basically means Iām totally gun shy with using ABS from now on, knowing that it could kill my next nozzle if I ever want to use another filament.
I have used ABS and PETG-CF exclusively with this machine (except for when I printed the calibration). Possibly, there may be something of with your machine, as mine, and Iāve read countless others, that switch back and forth like itās nothing. In my experience thus far, itās been so good, that I really donāt want to use my P1S machines anymoreā¦
Thatās very strange. And my suggestion, if you want to āpushā through, is either going as high as you can(I did this on a stubborn clog on my P1S), making sure you have no filament in the nozzles or extruder āpathā (besides whatās in the nozzle), allowing it to fully heat up, and āit willā boil and spit if you let it sit for a few.
I then, with gloves on, took one of the nozzle cleaners, and went from the bottom(of course with the bed all the way down) and cleared it. It was a bit difficult at first, just to line the cleaner up and get it in there. But once I got it, I worked it through, and youāll know when youāre successful, because like I said, it will spit that hot filament outā¦
The other alternative, is a micro torch. Doing the same thing, except with the nozzle assembly out of the machineā¦
Thank you! This is great advice. Iām going to try the micro torch on the one I pulled out when I have some time. I just ordered a replacement 0.4 ā¦still waiting for the HF version to become available, but I still need a spare around just in case. Much appreciated my friend!
if its only ABS in the nozzle, you can try to let it soak for a couple of days in Acetone. that will soften the ABS. Acetone has no effect on PLA though.
try the 2mm allen key. If you have a a1 or a1 mini, release its heater block and seat from the machine (but keep the wires connected), use its seat to install the nozzle, heat it up to 290C and push with the allen key.
You can also do this with H2D, just a little bit harder to access due to the enclosure
@Gerrit@hotellonely you guys rock! I soaked it in acetone overnight, took it out this morning and started pushing the nozzle needle into it. After I got the needle stuck in, because the ABS on the tip was so soft now, I waited for the acetone to evaporate, and then hit it with a mini torch for about 10 seconds. Finally I was able to push the needle all the way up almost to the top of the block, removed it, heated it with a torch again, and then stuck an Allen key in top, and pushed down hard (obviously holding this thing with needle nose pliers), suddenly a ton of filament squirted out of the tip in a perfect 0.4mm stream (about 10 inches long). Stuck the print head back in and fed some PETG into it, it worked. Now Iām doing a cold pull to remove any remnants. You guys saved a print head for me. I owe you both a pint of ale. thank you!
I have been printing eSun ABS for first time yesterday and so far no issues. I havenāt switched to any other material yet, but I hope I will not run intothe same issues as you did.
You shouldnāt. Thatās an odd one he experienced. Butā¦ Could have gotten a little chunk of ānon meltableā that started the whole process. Iāve had it happen in the past. Hard to diagnose, and sometimes even hard to see in the āpullāā¦
yeah micro torch is right on my skadis with all of my other tools. Heat gun just doesnāt got it. But yeah something about this black ABS. Itās Bambu ABS too, but itās especially stinky and gives off a ton of VOCs. You can see in the pull the ā ā ā ā that sticking inside the nozzle. Iām not using it any more, itās just not work it. I have some nice new ABS-GF Iāll try instead.
I print ABS exclusively. I use Hatchbox and MatterHackers MH Pro line and havenāt had a single issue with the H2D using the bambu ABS profiles. Try to dry the filament. Also, could be a bad roll. Iāve had some of these and got constant jams and clogs. Swapped rolls and no issues.
yeah Iāve never had problems with ABS before, especially Prusament ABS. I did try it, twice in the AMS 2 pro. Plus it has been kept dry (20-25% RH). I think itās a bad Bambu ABS roll. I took it out, and will try something else. At least I know how to remove a tough clog now.
This was a good thread to read. I have been using ABS for a few weeks now, I have not had this issue thankfully, however if I ever do, I now know how to resolve it. Acetone!
That is assuming I ever buy ABS again. It is a pain to print and I have to do it very slowly (20mm/sec) on my A1 to reasonable results. PETG looks to me to be a good alternative for my needs, just not as rigid. It is a hobby.
I personally prefer ASA over ABS, because itās UV resistant. For the rest they are quite similar. Might be a bit more prone to warping, but with the heated chamber itās good under control.
yeah I second this, I have started moving over to ASA simply for this fact, Iāve just been trying to get rid of old ABS stock. There are so many great materials to pick from now, and with the H2D heated chamber, warping is a thing of the past. Even ABS parts come out amazingly flat.
I will purchase a roll of ASA and give it a try. I use an A1 so not enclosed chamber however do have it setup in a large walk-in closet, no air moving and that has let me print ABS without the thing falling apart. Unfortunately I am dealing with a printer malfunction, right now, just trying to see if I can figure it out before asking for help.
If anyone cares some other insights; I had a similar issue. Had a break in my Bambu ABS for some reason. And after that it was clogged.
Checked everything, used the extra .4 nozzle. And it didnāt load. (Strange).
My problem: the AMS HT unloaded the filament badly after the break and spooled the filament upon itself effectively locking it on the roll so it wasnāt able to load again.
Cut off the tangled part; and it worked again. With the same ācloggedā nozzle.
I guess this is why you should make the tubes as short as posssible.
I just started printing with ABS and I was actually amazed at how well it printed on my H2D. I ran through a 1k roll (switched to other filaments during the 1k of ABS) and the ABS prints look amazing. The other filaments had no issues going through the same nozzle (left).
