Hello
Bambu ABS nozzle temp 240-270, your tower is perfect, it just isn’t printed in the right temp range, at all…
Sometimes temperature towers show no differences at all. Ideally, the best result would be somewhere in the middle of the tower, so you can say this is too hot and that is too cold, but THIS one is just right.
Your tower is still useful because it clearly shows that colder temperatures produce increasingly worse results and that even the highest temperature is too low. If I were watching the print, I probably would have stopped the tower print at 225 or sooner.
The ABS presets included with Studio recommend a range of 240-280, with the initial layer at 260 and other layers at 270.
I would print another tower. For the high end of the temp range I’d pick 290 - I want to prove that it is worse than the recommended max of 280, and I have found some filaments for which the recommended temperatures are not high enough. For the cold limit I’d choose 240, but watch the print and cancel it once I start seeing worse results.
The presets that come with Studio usually produce acceptable results with Bambu filament. For the BEST results, you need to calibrate the settings for your filaments on your printer in your printer environment for yourself. If you rely solely on other people’s settings you will have some failures and, at best, always wonder if your prints could be even better. I’d guess that is why you printed the temp tower in the first place.
I have a grand total of two ABS prints on my P1S so take that into consideration. First off, it was Bambu Lab ABS and that does impact results. Bambu Lab has a vested interest in insuring their filament works on their printers. While the may test other brands, their interest lies in getting their brand to print well.
My two prints of the same object had two significant results/outcomes.
Both prints, the print itself was flawless. The ABS filament was all from the same spool of Bambu Lab orange ABS,
BUT…print #1 was printed on an Amazon off-brand textured PEI build plate purpose made for Bambu Lab printers. While the print looked immaculate, I think it would have required 2 - 3 sticks of dynamite to dislodge it from the build plate. It the end, both the build plate and the print went in the garbage. The first layer was stuck to the off-brand build plate and the model wass minus that first layer. I had to use a chisel to accomplish that.
The second print, which was the same model, same spool of ABS was with the Bambu Lab textured PEI (gold) build plate and a release agent. When I went to look at print the next morning it had already released from build plate, as had that first pass of flament along the front of the plate.
So a significant difference in build plate adhesion but both prints were very nice if adhesion is excluded from the mix.
Im using also the factory delivered PEI gold structured plate. To be honest, i dont think my poor print quality is origin from bad bed adhesion. Its rather linked to settings of temperature, head, bed and cooling fan settings.
The filament is also new, fresh out the box of bambulab, so dont think moisture is an factor yet. What im looking for is people who have abs successfull prints and what settings they applied. That would be nice to test for me. Thanks in advance all !!!
I have printed with the settings enclosed ( see picture) in ABS ( BLUE part) and one with PLA (black). The PLA part was printed couple of week ago, with PLA eSun filament choice. So differently then the ABS settings. What could be the root cause of the poor ABS print?
Where can I find that model?
Did some tweaking of my instrumentation and I can give it a whirl to see how sensors act.
ABS actually is harder to print than PLA. The learning curve is much steeper
I suggest increase max fan speed to 60 or 80 for better cool at the tip.
slot kastje mobilhome v2.3mf (62.6 KB)
In annex you find the .3mf file. It’s a small, self designed, part that is used in my camper to lock the cabinets and drawers.
Thanks guy’s for all the help.
In meanwhile i’ve put my filament in the oven at 75°C for the next 2 hours.
Hope to see a difference…
in the meanwhile i’ve succeeded to print an acceptable quality part. I’ve chosen to set the STANDARD ABS BAMBULAB filament and°C adjusted the temp to 260°C. Bed temp at 90°C and while it was printing, coming to the later layers i’'ve played with the AUX and CASE FAN. Both raised till around 80% and even at the end AUX on 100% and got a good result.
So, conclusion is, that the TEMP of the filament at the end-layers is too hot, resulting in a wobbling plastic cylinder instead of a nice squared profile.
The end tip and even the arm need the filament to be cooled quicker it seems.
When it stays too long hot, it doesnt make a solid base for the next layer, so it starts the next layer on a melted abs layer which is still soft ( too soft) to build on.
Now, question.
As i looked to the printing while ongoing, i’ve adjusted the fan speeds manually, but this part was very small and printed on about 15 minutes.
What can i do, to program cooling settings per layer, so that for example, prints of 6 hours and longer, doesnt need to stay near the printer and that cooling is set automatically?
Thanks guy’s !!!
Kind regards,
I would print at least 2 of the same part that small and place them far away from each other, so that it would increase layer time.
The longer layer time the better it cool down.
