Hello everyone,
I’m facing some print quality issues with my Bambulab ABS filament. Please see the pictures attached. The wird thing is that both broblems seem to manifest on the Y axis, on the X axis it seems all good.
Problem 1:
The first couple of layers seemt to ooze, not stay in shape.
Problem 2:
Vertical cutout printing edge gets these bumbs or imperfections.
- Printer model used
P1S, 0.4mm head, 0.6mm retraction- Slicer settings used
Default ABS- Type of filament used
Bambulab ABS
What printer are you using? I haven’t started printing ABS yet, but I recently started printing ASA and noticed similar issues. For the first few layers, when I don’t have the door and lid closed, edges like yours have a tendency to warp, is your issue noticeable when the layers are being put down, or it happens a little later?
The other issue you’re having could be a wet filament, are you drying your filament well?
Hi @Kioto, thanks for your input. So You can find my printer info above the pictures, I use P1S.
I did not dry the filament yet, but I would expect it to cause issues all over the model if this was the case and you can see on my first picture tha the other part of the model is nearly perfect.
Everything is closed on the printer, I even have a TPU seal printed for the door hinge.
Regarding the timing, I’m not sure I just took it out at the end of the print like this.
What temp does the chamber hit? Do you use a brim?
You need to use a dedicate temp sensor to monitor the chamber temperature
Like this
It’s a bit dark inside the printer but it says 51.7°C on the thermometer at the back next to the stepper motor. I am printing PETG, btw.
To print ABS successfully, chamber temperature should be about 60°C to reduce warpage.
Hi @simon14
Thanks for the input, is there any other setting what you change comapred to the default ABS settings?
Also, how do you you pre-heat the chamber? What is your process?
Default bambu ABS preset is pretty much good enough, just lower fan speed a bit
Some guys just preheat 20-30 minutes before the print, they use the hotend temperature sensor to read chamber temperature as well.
Pretty much depend on room temperature that heat loss is greater than the heat dissipated from heated bed, then chamber temperature never can get to 60°C.
I have P1S inside insulated enclosure, so that I don’t really need active chamber heater to keep chamber temperature high enough. Yep, enclosed printer inside an insulated box. The benefit of this insulated box is to reduce heat loss to the room and keep 99.9% voc particles inside the printer. My setup was for ABS printing mostly, so that’s that.
Hi @simon14
Great, I’ll try to preheat ad see how it goes. Thanks
Hello everone,
So the soultion for me was the folowing:
[Problem1]
The matterial imperefections on the diagonal edge.
[Solution1]
These are just the Seam marks, BambuStudio just placed them on that edhe and for some reason it is more outstanding on the Y then the X Axis.
[Problem2]
First cuple of layers were “oozing” like elephant foot issue.
[Solution2]
I changed the “Infill Pattern” of the model to Gyroid.
[Problem3]
After switching from 0.6mm head to 0.4mm the pock marks have returned. No retraction setting or drying helped.
[Solution3]
Used the stainels steel head instead of the hardened steel.
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