So looking at posts about ABS and bed adhesion most if not all were about it NOT sticking.
I ran out of the Halloween orange PLA but a refill spool of Bambu Lab ABS had showed up a couple of days ago, let it percolate in the Sunlu dryer for about 4 hours and straight into printer.
Longer print so got it going, and was probably halfway done when I went to bed.
Got up this morning and as a model it was great.
When I went to remove it, that wasn’t happening.
The plate was fortunately already damaged during my troubles with first machine but the damage was not a factor.
I ultimately used a wide wood chisel but the picture will show.
Glue. Specifically glue stick.
It acts as a barrier and it will release better.
It’s odd that it stuck so well, I haven’t had that even on the Painted Ultem plate I have.
I also tend to lean on the smooth plate for ABS, liquid glue will work too, just think the textured has too much texture for the liquid glue. (meaning the liquid is too thin)
Put a swipe or two on and a slightly damp papertowel over it to spread a thin layer. Should work well.
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After chiseling the pumpkin (minus the bottom layer or two, jumped in my car and went to the two HOBBY stores to buy glue stick. I say hobby store sort of sarcastically as they are what I would call craft stores.
Before I dive in I wanted to get some folks that have printed ABS to weigh in. That in the picture is on there, but good.
That is an Amazon no-name brand that I do not even remember the exact reason I bought it. I’m glad I did though, because it has born the brunt of a bad printer gouging the build surface and now this.
Are any of you all familiar with mold release agents? I have but not in this application. Boat builders hose down the hull mold with the stuff. After it dries they then paint the mold then lay down the fiberglass.
I…dunno about that. I haven’t used any so let me speculate.
I would think it would also hinder adhiesion. I know the medium like fiberglass, carbon fiber “stick to it” (not really but I am not sure how to describe what I’m thinking) they are sprayed or layered on with resin and pressed. The filament being squished onto the plate, I doubt that’s the same.
In short i think the release is different than what you’re looking for and a 50 cent glue stick will do the job. This is one of those cases where it shouldn’t be overthunked. 
I have the Elmer’s glue stick in hand although I don’t know which color.
Before I hit the road I did a crash and burn 3d printer/glue stick search. Among the replies was one that was *It MUST be Elmer’s BLUE.
I did not know there were different colors of Elmer’s Glue Stick.
In addition to the glue stick I did buy a can of mold release.
What type filaments are prone to sticking? I might do a test of mold release. after I get a sacrificial build plate. I’m dubious about my ability to remove that stuck filament from build plate in picture.
Next time, put the plate with the print in your freezer for an hour. The metal plate and plastic have radically different coefficients of thermal expansion. The model should pretty much separate itself from the build plate as it cools down and the thermally induced stresses go to work…
ABS’s Coefficient of Thermal Expansion ranges from 70 to about 110 (x 10e-6), the Steel build plate’s CoTE is only around 10 or so. So as it cools, the plastic is going to contract at >7x higher rate than the plate it’s stuck to. It can’t help but come unstuck.
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I slept right through that option but good point. I have read several articles that go at the different thermal expansion of ABS and steel in the last several hours.
All the ABS horror stories I’ve read were lack of adhesion, not overwhelming bonding between PEI texture and ABS.
If this is the bambu “engineering plate”, the coating on the plate would come off with plastic as well.
@Wsquared58
I suggest hair spay, the extra hold one. The one without fragrance is more desired.
I don’t think the color really matters. At least not that I’ve seen.
PETG loves the textured plate. Seriously, try to avoid that one. I’d stick to either the engineering plate or the smooth plate.
I seldom use glue as a fix to poor asheison, although I do use it to help on ABS, ASA, and Nylon. Stick specifically with the Nylon. I’ve begun to use it more with the Carbon plate, but that’s a plate that can be used with every filament, so there’s a trade-off to be had.
I really think I’d avoid the mold release. It occured to me that it may be thicker and of different makeup that it could harm the bed surface. I’m not a chemical engineer so I can’t say for certain, but better safe than sorry.
It’s been mentioned to try the freezer. It may work. I’ve had it work for PETG when I learned to avoid textured unless using glue as a release agent.
There’s a stigma with using glue I don’t understand. There’s no badge for avoiding it, and if used properly it won’t have an adverse effect. The end result is to have a perfect, or as close to it, print.
Printed these last night, I set bed temp to 95°, no glue. This morning they just slide off the plate. I do use glue on smooth plate for easy release.
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Curious what in each persons print adventure has been the most problematic to get off the build plate with and without using something to help release the print from the whether that is hair spray, glue stick, etc.
I have the exact same issue. The first layer sticks so hard that I have to use a metal scraper to get it off, but then the print fails at 5%. ABS is the best/worst.
