If you buy the $30 complete head it’s suggesting to also by heater and thermistor. Does the head not come with those components?
Also any suggestions on Must Have parts or accessories?
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Buy yourself the other build plates available 
especially the pei sheet.
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The complete hot end will have everything you see in the photo so you are good for a backup hot end.
I like the Texture bed plate if you don’t have it already.
I have most of the main backup parts I don’t like being down but if this is just a hobby then you can wait for parts also they can go out of stock at times.
I also use the WhamBam bed plate and Vision Miner Adhesive but it depends on what filaments you are using also.
I also recommend the orca slicer.
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Mr DrDank, regarding plates, 3DTech’s advice is, as always, spot on. However, keep in mind what you plan on being the majority of your prints. I bought some textured plates on one of my weekly Bambu shopping sprees, but then came to realize since I will mostly be printing miniatures and action figures, the textured plate wasn’t my best choice. Not that it doesn’t work great, its just that most of the time, I want a clean flat surface based on what orientation of the part I end up going with.
That’s just my 2 cents worth. To really learn a lot about these printers, I recommend you scour this forum. You will learn quite a bit. Just learn to ignore the doom-and-gloomers and the self-proclaimed Einstein’s out there.
Ha I like that!
Well downside is my machine was DOA so I’m still waiting to even experience it but not gonna let it get me too down.
Yeah I ordered the high temp pei plate, & their liquid glue.
From my understanding the full print head is to make swapping easier?
Would you recommend 2 or a 6?
I plan on some PAHT Carbon, Reg Pla/Pla-CF, and trying out some PLA-Wood
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I am assuming you are talking about the suggested purchases when you select an item?
I am not sure about anyone else, but I find those unreliable. To me, and I could be wrong, it suggests randomish stuff. Like it just randomly selects things similar to what you are buying.
Like “oh, you’re buying PLA-CF in blue, well, have you seen all our blue filament? Also, have you looked at tubing?” Again, that’s just me, I think it randomly suggests stuff.
I run stock everything. I just recently bought the liquid glue to try. Holy carp… Worth it!!! I love it. Lasts longer than regular glue, goes on extremely thin, and I’m guessing here but I’m going to get more use out of it than normal glue sticks. As in, aside from the quantity of glue, the milage so to speak is better. I use far less glue and get more prints per application.
The nozzle you use also depends on what you intend to print and what resolution (smoothness and high detail) you are looking for. If you plan on printing action figures/miniatures, then you might want the .2 nozzle. If you will be printing larger items where high detail is not necessary, .4, .6 and even .8 might be good. I bought all of them but haven’t tried the .8 yet.
I bought some various PLA Wood (the real stuff and the “fake” stuff). Got good results from all of them but the “real” stuff really needs dried out well prior to using.
The glue stick and liquid glue are both good, however, I have almost exclusively switched to Aqua Net Extra Super Hold, see below, and it works so much better for me and doesn’t leave any glue residue on the parts.
If your budget allows it, pick up some extra tubing, thermistors, ceramic heaters, and nozzle wipers as soon as you can. Make sure you are selecting the ones for the X1 and not P1P. If you buy the complete Hot Ends, then buying extra thermistors and ceramic heaters are not as necessary. However, it’s always good to have some spares “just in case”. It is easy to go overboard, trust me, I have a 7-foot cabinet overflowing with Bambu “spare parts”. 
Take it slow and soon enough you will get a feel for what is necessary and what isn’t. More than likely, filament will be your biggest expense. Don’t be afraid to look at various places for reputable filament. Amazon, Micro Center, Ali Express to name just a few.
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Lots of good info got 2 more for ya!
Out side of detail & size is there any correlation between strength/layer adhesions & nozzle size?
&
What is “the good” stuff as far as Wood PLA?
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Typically, strength is not really a concern for me since most of my prints, especially the action figures/miniatures, will never be manhandled, outside of being pushed around and thrown off the shelf a time or two by my birds. Though, I have read on this forum and elsewhere that the larger the nozzle, the stronger the part. There are other factors that come into play that dictates strength of a part. Infill is a major one as well as orientation of the part when printing. It is always good to know what kind of stress your part will be facing and print your part so the stress is distributed “against the grain”, so to speak. I hesitate to go further since I am not really versed in this area compared to many others on this forum. Hopefully, one or two of them will pipe in. If not, search the forum for “strength” and you will find tons of postings.
“Good Stuff” wood filament is also somewhat subjective. My criteria were all about how it looked, with little emphasis on strength or ease of printing. My two favorite wood filaments are both from Amolen. Their Wood Bamboo and Walnut have never given me any problems and they look really nice. The Walnut especially takes staining really well. Unfortunately, due to the aforementioned birds, I stopped printing with both of these filaments because the birds liked to chew on them (I guess they think they really are wood) and that isn’t healthy for birds to digest any filament since it can get stuck in their throats/intestinal tract.
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