Adding LED Strips to AMS

Bambu Lab AMS General discussions
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My AMS is sort of sitting in the dark. Its not on top of the P1S. Using a 1500mm cable and longer PTFE tube, Could use some internal lights. I am adding LED light strips to my AMS. Using one of 3dMachinist (etsy) boxes from AMS 6pin to two USBs. 5v. Will mount his box on the left side of bottom with command strips so I don’t have to drill holes. I am not ready to permanently mount. Looking at under the front of the cover just inside where it touches the bottom. Looks like room there. And maybe along either side of the left most and right most spool. Doesn’t look like room in back on on top. Anyone?

There’s an engineer on esty, goes by 3dMachinst. He makes and sells a variety of “boxes” that use the 4pin and 6pin cables to tap power from the printer. Boxes mount outside the printer, and cables pass through his boxes. You can select from 24v, 12v, or 5v combinations.

Example his AMS on/off switch ($6) powers AMS because two cables pass through it. Works GREAT

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HIs stuff is great. Used the USB for a bit then switched to the 24v swtiches. Use one for lights and one for the Bento box.

I have been using both for a bit, haven’t had any issues with power. I only have one AMS though, so not really concerned.

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I wanted lights inside my AMS. It sits in a dark spot, not on top of the P1S. So rounded up some parts and went to work. I didn’t even notice in my own picture. If you look, you see a horizontal line of yellow dots near the top of the AMS. That’s the back side of the LED strips stuck to the inside of the box and facing toward the spools.
List of parts is below.
Bottom line up front. Final result is the first picture you see. Picture 1 & 2

AMS Lights 1
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AMS Lights 2
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Then from the beginning. 5V LED Strip, 1 meter long. Picture 3 & 4

AMS Lights 3
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AMS Lights 4
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Cut two pieces a) 13 ¼ inches and b) 12 inches long. Added JST 2 pin connectors to one end of each. These are the smallest I can find. Carry so little amperage, doesn’t hurt to be this small. About 15/64ths in diameter. Picture 5

AMS Lights 5
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I made a small male to 3 female connector harness. Didn’t use but 2 of the 3 female connectors, but I always do an extra when making harnesses. Picture 6.

AMS Lights 6
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The 5V LED light strip is powered indirectly from the second 6-pin port on the AMS. I bought one of 3dMachinist’s “Dual USB 446 Assembled” boxes (etsy) and a 510mm 6-pin cable. This one tap 24V and converts it to 5V USB. (Love his stuff). (Also in picture, on box, is two female JST connectors. Not used, but available if needed later.) Picture 7

AMS Lights 7
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I used 3M Command Strips to secure it to the side of my AMS, but his box has no back on it. So, I went to Bento3d.design, and roughed out a simple box, downloaded the stl and printed it. I hacked the side so the USB ports are accessible. Picture 8

AMS Lights 8
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3dMachinist’s boxes are electronic, but not IoT smart, so I wanted it to be able to use my voice to turn the lights on and off, so I added a Sonoff Micro (USB WiFi plug). Now, voice command “Alexa, AMS on or off, turns the lights on/off” Picture 9

AMS Lights 9
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I drilled a 15/64th hole through the outside to inside and cleared the loose plastic out. And threaded the 3-wire harness through from the inside. I tidied it up before I finished. And I might go back and shorten these wires. But for the purposes of showing it, it looks sloppy – I agree. Picture 10

AMS Lights 10
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I had a small rubber plug that fit the hole, so I cut the end off so the wire would go through. I wanted to make an effort to reduce the flow of air in/out of that hole. I used a USB pigtail and attached the small JST connector to power the lights. Big USB connector for such a small wire. And one can see, I used the USB so I could pass power through the Sonoff Micro to control on/off. Otherwise, I could use the JST connectors I soldier to the inside of the USB connectors. Also, could use some excess wire reduction. Picture 11 & 12.

AMS Lights 11
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AMS Lights 12
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The 12-inch LED strip is visible here because it’s attached to the inside of the front of the AMS. But 13 ¼ inch strip is not in view. It sticks to the underside of the inside lip of the AMS. In other words, its inside the AMS right where the AMS lid comes down and contacts the bottom section. Two strips shine at 90-degree angles to each other. Picture 13

AMS Lights 13
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In this picture, two yellow horizonal strips are visible. These are the two strips of LEDs. The one closest to the picture bottom, is just the yellow diffuser of the LED strips. I didn’t know that was what I ordered. But it does spread light well, so I proceeded to use it. Picture 14

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List of parts.
LED Strip Lights 6000K Cold White USB Powered 5V Flexible LED Tape $ 7.99

JST 1.25mm 2 Pin Micro Male Female Connector Plug $ 6.99

Dual USB 446 Assembled $22.99

Bambu Bus Cable 6-pin cable $ 6.99

SONOFF Micro USB Smart WiFi Adaptor 5V 2-Pack, Smart Switch for Type A USB Devices, Compatible with Alexa & Google Home,APP Remote Control Switch, No Hub Required (2 Pack) $19.99

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Nicely done, well explained as well!

Just for reference, not to try to give you a hard time here:
If you look for ‘pogo pins’ on the Chinese market places or in a good electronics catalogue you might find them extremely useful for such projects.
I like to use the magnetic ‘plugs’ for projects were what’s inside the box has to be kept waterproof.
DIY with just the pins/buttons and custom printed connectors is quite easy as well.
Just to give you a rough idea: Random AliExpress link

As you can see they are simple and cheap enough to not bother with DIY but sometimes custom is just better.I abuse this stuff for charging connectors, to quickly swap between temperature probes even ‘magnetic lights’ (clip on the light when needed and keep the connector powered for other things).
For the AMS connection, for example, you could use a template to get the holes for the buttons and secure them with a drop of superglue or UV glue.
One drop (on the correct side) on the magnets and with the outside connector in place they will align perfectly.
You can even use ‘stubbies’ to have a magnetic connector on either side of a housing wall.
Very handy for hard to reach places or you have to plug/unplug things often - plastic wears our over time, contact pins can bend magnetic pogo connectors won’t let you down.
Imagine one could pop that Wifi adapter to include it into a custom housing with the power box parts…
Pogo connector to the AMS, pogo outputs - you could even use a few more magnets and have a the box mounted on pogo pins…

Just saying - LOVE what you have done to get those light working!

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Hi, Don’t mind being beat up for how it could be different. Quite alright.
Pogo Pins. Never heard of those before you said. The random link didn’t work. But searched Ali and found some. 90% of your explanation went over my head though.

The AMS has an inner and outer wall. There’s empty space between. I don’t think these magnetic connectors would work, as I doubt the strength of the magnets would provide the connection. I can’t say for certain, because never having heard of them before, I didn’t have any to try.

Thanks for the info about Pogo Pins. I will definitely get some to play with. Interesting approach. Much appreciate that.

Thanks for the reply. I just hope it helps other folks.