@StarPlayrX IIRC, there have been some forum posts by people who installed heaters, similar to what you have done, and raised chamber temp to 60C without reporting any problems. As you may know, X1E has a chamber heater that can be set as high as 60C. Referencing typical electronic part tolerances, @RocketSled thinks up to 70C on the X1C might be possible without encountering malfunctions or other problems caused by the higher chamber heat. I haven’t read any accounts by anyone who has actually tried it though, so for now it remains unconfirmed. If anyone reading this has tried chamber temperatures greater than 60C, please post here whether it led to any observed difficulties or not. Especially for ASA and other filament types with a high warp tendency, it would be nice to have access to a higher chamber temp, as long as it doesn’t cause even bigger problems than it solves.
My heater is limited to 50, but I may be able to get that a little hotter adding another trash bag. Still a silly thing but add one, add +3 degrees C. Really the goal is stop heat from escaping or reduce it down, so things can stay heated up. This was just with PLA and PLA+.
I also have a server enclosure that the X1C could go in, but maintenance will quickly become a pain and I don’t want that. I have enough of an issue with filament stacked next to my printer. Which I may one day deplete my stock and not store so much in-house.
I don’t have any ASA but I do have ABS, PC, PETG and PETG-CF so it will be interesting to see if that can get to 60-70 with the hotter bed. I use PC for outdoor stuff, glue together pieces, primed and painted.
Does anyone know why the fans go to 100? I thought that was fixed but two of fans at reaching 100 and it seems counter productive in terms of heat. I have been setting 3 of the fans down to 50 manually. I don’t mind if there are on, but at 100%, seems to cost 1-2 degrees of heat, so if you are going for a certain temp and air is blowing around like a wind tunnel, just seems like forces are in a fight. I could add a second chamber heater, but I am hoping just one will do and I like where I have 1 placed and it’s heat is coming out to a dead space area, so no risk of melting anything there (against the metal case).
My parts have started to arrive and I’ll be assembling this in the next week or so.
Very doable and parts came to around $30 from Aliexpress.
That skirt idea is brilliant! Will be a handy trick to have.
Remember “ooze shields”? Back in the day, they provided nearly the same cover.
Truly a First World problem. 
I had never heard of ooze shields and had to look that up. Different purpose but even more protection from drafts!
Since adding the chamber heater and setting it to 50°C, it’s highest setting, I have been able to stop using 3DLacPlus without any warping on my Arcade box lids.
Before the chamber heater and without any 3DLacPlus, 1-2 Corners of the print would warp about 30-40mm in. and print layers would have a rough burnt like texture.
I’ve only had the heater for a few days, seeing immediate results.
I’ll try to devise a test print showing the difference between the chamber heater, 3d Lac Plus, no heater, no 3d lac plus etc.
Right now I am printing a bunch of lids as they were the most difficult to print on glass.
Not certain, but if you are having feeding issues when you close it up fairly tight and can titrate that with the leaf bags, there have been cases of where the filament mushrooms out a bit at the extruder since it’s bringing even more heat. @JonRaymond knows a lot about this.
yeah. That’s more of the issue. seeing how much heat is too much for certain filaments. The X1C shows does measure the chamber heat. and it is around 38-42 to without the leaf bags, and 42-48 with.
I try to add more heat after it gets past my 4mm of layers as that is where the warping will start.
Opening a seam on the leaf bags also lowers the heat by 2-3 degrees.
I may not need the leaf bags at all, but the chamber heater may have to do more work.
Finding a happy medium,
High chamber heat has also been associated with bearing issues on the carbon rods. A few threads here about that. I don’t remember temperatures were where it starts, though. Good luck!
My chamber heater is at the bottom of the unit and its max temp is 50°C which currently pours heat onto the back left corner of the unit. I would imagine this dissipates by the time it reaches the bed and print surfaces.
I have given up on trash bags to keep in extra heat. Too many issues with filament not extruding or breaking.
I am trying out not allowing heat to escape from the front of the unit. The door has areas where heat can escape, especially the left corner. So I am using electrical tape around the door. The heater gradually gets to 49°C and the chamber gets to 44°C. From memory (I need to track this closer): Without the electric tape, the heater gets to 46°C, and the chamber reads 40°C. With just sealing the door, the exhaust on the back bottom rear works as usual.
I did do a print last night without the trash bags and no electrical tape on a heavily used Wham Bam! powered PEI plate. The print did not have any issues and than some wear from the old plate from previous prints. But no warping or stringing.
I have not gotten either warping or stringing since using a chamber heater.
May not need to seal the door at all, but I am trying to find a happy medium where the heater is not doing a ton of extra work, but that may be futile.
I am definitely not getting too much heat capture now.
Going to run two more prints. Both on a borosilicate glass. One without sealing the front door’s cracks and one with using electrical tape.
Least I am not using 3DLacPlus anymore. That is very helpful when it comes to printing on glass where the goal is usually to get the max gloss finish.
Also. My prints do not expand until I remove the plate from the printer. And you can hear the print expanding with crackle and pop sounds. For glass especially, I try to let that do its thing. You can speed it up in a freezer, but on glass, but I try to let things cool and expand naturally as much as possible.
My top cases fit the bottom three parts perfectly now too.
I am really happy with the way this heater is working out. No 3DLacPlus, No Glue, No weird mixes of IPA with 3DLacPlus, just a chamber heater and some electrical tape on the door while printing. And the tape serves a dual purpose. Keeps small hands from opening and hurting themselves.
The current temp blinks red above the blue. I guess I caught it between blinks, but it works.
So I’ve assembled this and am currently letting it run and cycle on and off to test for any issues. This is the 110 version. Uses a step down for the 24v fan, everything else runs on AC. The AUX fan sits on top of the heater side.
I really wanted to do this with 24v all around. I ordered the parts for that as well. Easier to wire but lacks any real power, even with a dedicated 24v power supply. I didn’t feel it would keep temp within the chamber so fell back to it’s original design. It is plugged into a smart plug that I can turn off and on with my phone and Alexa, as well as a manual switch. Also on a quality surge protector.
I’ve tested for a little in chamber and I’ve set it for 55, with a top end of the same. If you let it run too high it will heat up the opposite wall quickly and overshoot, and I just didn’t like the temp between the bottom and top at that point. There was a 10 degree difference. The bento helped even this out. I also felt that with the bed and the hotend the chamber gets to 55 when printing ABS, I just want a little boost and not cook the internals. I may adjust this once it’s installed to find the balance.
I may install it in the printer today, but I think I’ll just keep it out until next weekend. I can test it on the bench and have easy access if I need it.
Still not sure how I feel. I’d rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.
EDIT: I ended up not using it. The design is solid and it worked well, too well for me. I tried 12v and 24v along with running the heater with the 24v input not the main.
Running 24v heater it warmed nicely and more or less maintained the temp. This is where the issue arrises though, since the printer isn’t fully sealed the heat kicked on and off frequently. Setting the temp controller to kick in with a wider margine (-5 from set) helped, but not much.
The heater also threw heat accross the printer onto the other side of the printer. It was quite warm at 24v and it concerned me with eventual damage to the walls. I know the plastic should withstand it, but I wasn’t crazy about how warm it was getting.
12v was ok. That heater took quite a bit to get up to temp, and struggled to keep temp. In the end I didn’t think it was efficent nor a good fit. More power is better(ish).
In the end, just with some slight modifications to seals I can get to 56-60 without a heater. This suits my needs, so I opted to not use a heater. Was still fun to build though.
There is a pre built heater on aliexpress. Did anyone tried before?
https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005007451846333.html
@NoelRocha That does indeed look interesting. Thanks for posting it!
I’m a bit mystified as to why it recommends no chamber heating for ABS and ASA though:
Recommended chamber temp for various filaments
Chamber temp for PLA, PETG, TPU, PVA, PLA’s supports and other low-temperature filaments: OFF
Chamber temp for ASA, ABS: OFF
Chamber temp for PC, PA, PA-CF, PAHT-CF, PA6-CF, PET-CF, PPA-CF, PPA-GF, PPS, PPS-CF and other high-temperature filaments: 60 ℃
I just bought one of these from the link above. I’ll let y’all know how it works once I get installed and a few PC prints completed.
Any word on how that did for you?
Still waiting on it to show up in the mail. Standby 
7 days ago ordered and paid for and still waiting for it? Where does it come from, China or … China?!?