We need help related to adhesion problems.
We have an A1, printing direct from the handy app, default settings. Camera/time lapse is off. Filament has been dried. Plate has been cleaned multiple times with dawn dish soap. Different brands of silk pla- successful prints with the same filament.
We have many successful prints however we have seen failures related to taller prints. We have tried 3 different prints and all failed within the last few minutes of the printing process. These are somewhat taller prints- the latest was only 2 inches high. Everything else prints well and towards the end the print seems to be pushed/fall to the side the. Filament everywhere. The printer is in a secure room, no jostling of the machine itself.
Included is the last attempt it was fine until about 7 minutes left then fell over.
What are we missing? We’ve done the standard troubleshooting.
Models with limited bed surface area have the most difficulty when the author doesn’t add a brim in the profile. Unfortunately the app doesn’t allow this depth of adjustment. You’ll need to do it in Studio on a computer.
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Do a simple tower test.
E.g.: Print a thin cylinder of let’s say 15mm in diameter and with little filament, no need for thick walls either.
Let it print 50 to 100mm tall, not too important.
Once done and before the plate cools turn it back to temp it had for the printing.
Now simply push the top of the cylinder to see how good it sticks to the plate.
It SHOULD take a bit of force to push it off.
Try again but then try bumping it with your finger and something solid, like the backend of a screwdriver.
If a few tiny bumps get it off or you only need light force with your finger to push it off you have a problem.
IF that turns out ok though it means you have issues with the nozzle hitting the print, like the filament warping up on corners the head bumps into or infill coming out bumpy.
How to improve the bed adhesion ?
Did you try glue/gluestick ?
Quite often the bed temp is a contributing factor here.
If too high the first layer stays rather soft and can let go if the model is bumped into.
If too low it means the shrinkage while the filament cools can result in the print popping off.
This can be observed if prints keep popping off around the same layer heights.
Especially if you use a FLIR camera to see how that base of the model changes temp once the layer go above a certain height.
The first layer extrusion temp is well worth playing around with.
You want the filament to create a solid and defect free first layer - not too hard, not too squishy…
A brim is the resort option here and often unavoidable for small parts, especially if they are quite tall in relation to their first layer size.
But leaving the default 0.1mm gap can mean certain materials still pop off.
What makes it easier for you also provides less help with the bed adhesion.
Going with 0 here means more work cleaning off the brim but provides the best support to prevent a model from popping off.
If you are not shy to do some extra work on the model:
Some models do need a brim but also suffer from the need to remove it without damaging the model.
Inner corners and rounding are a pain here, especially if they are tiny.
If you have ‘clean’ preferably straight wall sections you can add a single layer primitive to provide more bed adhesion.
Works well for OUTER corners as well, be it straight or rounded ones.
Combine the lot once satisfied and do a test print with a single part.
If it works well and the cleaning up if ok too then export as a STL and 3MF for later use.
You can then just clone the model or populate the plate with other models.
Keep the added primitives small, in terms of how far they protrude from the model and you can more of these primitives to join the clones to create a plate where the parts support each other for the bed adhesion.
Well worth the extra time if you print the same thing quite often…
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