Okay that gives me a little confidence to just try it out. I think I’ll give it a go over the weekend.
There are quite a few of us who have successfully printed with TPU, using nothing other than the standard presets. I’m well aware of the usual advice to back off extruder tension for TPU, but it didn’t seem to be a problem for the prints I have done.
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Same here but only using TPU 95A so a relatively easy TPU to print
Just the factory default settings, engineering plate and some glue stick
Prints nicely for me using the standard speed
I use Tronxy TPU btw, good bang for the buck as far as I’m concerned
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Soft (60A or 70A shore hardness) TPU is very difficult to feed and print. Nothing at all like your typical and common 95A TPU.
I printed eSun TPU 83A without any problem. 83A feels pretty soft to me, I never tried material which is even softer.
Hello friends, I have the same problem as you.
materials TPU95A, flex 40 no problem, but flex 30 is a big problem! and then I didn’t figure out how to set it up correctly, I’ve already disassembled the clogged extruder X times and I still can’t print this very soft material. Does anyone have an idea how to set it up correctly? does anyone print this very soft material?
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Hallo, wich settings did you use?
Retrack, cooling, noozle temperature for 1. and other layers, printing speed,
Had you any problems with slinging?
It would be nice to hear about it! 
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Based on the Generic TPU profile I changed these settings:
Max. volumetric speed: 1,5
Temperature: 230°C
Layer time: 20s
In the print profile:
Avoid crossing walls
Gyroid infill
2 walls and 0,8mm top and bottom thickness
I have to warn you: overhangs look terrible, I guess this is the downside of this soft TPU.
But I never had any extrusion issues.
The screw is very long. I also thought about it but I’m not shure, if there is always a place for the out looking screw. May be, it crashes on the right front corner?
Good luck!
Thank you for this information.
I will test this on weekend.
I’ve been trying quite a bit of TPU for a couple of days (I’ve only had my X1C, no AMS, for a week). I’ve tried the built-in Generic TPU profile as well as a profile graciously provided by one or more members of the Bambu Lab Discord server. I think I have a mostly usable custom profile preferring higher quality over speed, but I haven’t quite worked out how to maintain strong infill for larger infill areas. By weak infill I mean that the infill patterns don’t remain coherent, and there is often a visible gap between the tip of the extruder and the vertical point of deposit for the extruded filament during printing, the “altitude” of the highest infill point being lower than that of surrounding solid areas. You can see a photo of this kind of issue at the Simplify3D 3D Printing Quality Troubleshooting Guide. That guide suggests increasing the value for a setting called "Infill Extrusion Width”. What setting or combination of settings might have a similar effect in Bambu Studio or Bambu Studio Softfever other than increasing the density of the infill or sparse infill pattern for TPU prints? Thanks.
hi, the stuck extruder problem solved, I made a hole in the housing and released the pressure on the spring. everything works beautifully. but I have a big problem with the quality of the overhangs. can you advise me how to melt?
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You should be able to join the Bambu Lab Discord server, but Bambu Lab support will need to invite you. I was able to request an invitation even before purchasing. You might try sending email to contact@bambulab.com to request access to the Discord server. There are already custom material profiles for Ninjatek Cheetah and Armadillo on the Discord server, and I’m hoping there will soon be one available for Ninjaflex. Because you already use a Bambu Lab 3D printer, you may also request access by creating a support ticket through the support site for Bambu Lab.
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Very soft TPU is very very bad at overhangs, that’s just the nature of the beast. You’ll have to use supports or modify your model with less overhangs. You could use more cooling, but you’ll also get more warping, you have to find a balance and that’s different for every print
yes, I understand. thank you!
One more thing I’d like to add. I use a Mac computer, and if you use the Softfever version of Bambu Studio and follow the instructions for flow calibration using the built-in calibration steps, you can use the following AppleScript to make it simple to perform the instructed calculations. If you’re not used to AppleScript on the Mac, just launch the Script Editor.app, paste the following code into an empty document window, press run and answer the prompts:
set FlowRatio_Old to text returned of (display dialog "Please enter current (old) flow rate:" default answer "0.98") as real
set ModifierValue to text returned of (display dialog "Please enter the Modifier value that you selected when you ran the test:" default answer "5") as real
set adjusted_FlowRatio to (FlowRatio_Old * (100 + ModifierValue) / 100)
display dialog "Your new Flow Ratio value:" & space & (adjusted_FlowRatio as text)
Nice that you did that, but it’s only a few seconds in a calculator app to determine new values.
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Fair enough. (I need the rest of this to post that reply, apparently)
Hello tmtymmotorsport,
can you please tell me with TPU (Shore) did you use on your picture.
I dry to print a TPU 60a on my P1S with 0,6 needle and i despair !
Hope to hear from you.
Regards
Chris