Anyone have a safe method of cleaning out a gooped up and jammed nozzle while it is disconnected from the tool head? I’ve got prints running on my printer all the time and I don’t want to stop just to re-affix a gummed up nozzle for the sake of cleaning (especially since I’d need to reappropriate a fan from a working hotend.) But I would like to resuscitate it.
It would be nice to show a picture of the nozzle. And let us know what material is on there…
1 Like
I’m looking for general advice, but the one I have in mind is a 0.6mm hardened steel nozzle with a film of of PAHT-CF around the tip and stray patches of PETG in the crevices near the heat sink from when it encased itself in a massive blob of PETG. Oh yes, and a piece of ASA jammed in the feed orifice.
My advice: buy a new one…
Probably sound advice. But I never got a single working print out of it, so I’m stubbornly sticking to the sunk cost fallacy.
What makes you believe you will ever get a working print out of it now?
I’ve run into similar saturations and have consider making a stand alone controller so that a nozzle can be heated up to temp so cleaning can be done. It would have plugs for both the P and X series nozzles and fan control to cool nozzles down.
2 Likes
If you don’t have it in your toolkit already, I would suggest a brass wire brush and a flashlight with a mirror. This is what I use but there are many more kinds out there. I then first remove the silicone sock and then heat the nozzle to 250c which is the universal temp that the printer uses when performing a purge. I then move the head to a comfortable position and use the brash toothbrush to scrape away any accumulated filament on the nozzle tip. If you suspect the nozzle is clogged, look at the bambu wiki of doing a cold pull or you can use the wire cleaner that comes in many kits, example below. In that case, you’ll have to detach the PTFE tube first then heat up the nozzle to 250. Then use the wire to push any excess filament.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVGGDJQD/
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=flashlight+with+mirror
Alternatively, you can try using a cleaning filament although I’ve not found them to be as effective.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746J454J/
2 Likes
Sheer ignorant force of will and abject denial.
It was an extravagance to begin with. I haven’t found a need for a 0.6mm nozzle. I’m not going to order a new one… at least not until I begin regularly printing with PAHT-CF. Might as well try to make this one work.
@Olias I’ve got what I need for cleaning a nozzle on the toolhead. I was inquiring about cleaning while disconnected… whether there is a safe heat source to use for a ‘loose’ nozzle.
temperature regulated heat-gun with narrow nozzle, temperature regulated soldering iron with customized tip.
well that one is a bit difficult to answer on because if the “cleaner” is a “loose gun” in regards to safety then all bets are off 
1 Like
I did stick my 0.4mm nozzle (not complete hot end) in to an oven to soften the filament so I could clean the exterior of the nozzle. It worked but I burned my fingers in the process.
@Panamon_Creel … I want to say that’s a Sword of Shannara reference?
Good idea. I’ve got an air soldering station. That should be as safe as anything if I carefully put the nozzle in a vise and set it to 250C. Thanks!
you are absolutely correct 