Suggestion:
1-Buy a replacement AP board, that’s safest thing to do.
2-Once the old one is out, get someone to fix it. That way you’ll have a back up.
Thanks for making this thread. I bought a Juupine as well for my P1S but from another listing than yours on Ali. Mine didn’t have any negative reviews but after some reasearch I found the listing you probably bought it from as well.
I got some flickering after some while on the aftermarket LED strip connected to the 2 pin AP board connector. I only shortened my Juupine strip by like 15 cm and it draws 660 mA. I am now going to solder it to a USB A connector and will use it with that instead of risking 50 € down the drain for a 2,50 € LED strip. Sorry for digging it up but I thought it might help others that stumble upon it like I did.
/edit: after resoldering a bad connection and soldering on the USB A it draws 1A. Glad I still made the mod before my board would’ve probably died.
/edit 2: one more question to the pros that posted here: is there an option to toggle the USB power on/off from far away, eg not at home? I see @philch 's solution would probably work. Is there a less fussy one or do I need to take the signal from the original 2 pin LED connector to trigger a switch that I put between USB out and LED in?
Glad you may have saved your board! Being able to control the LEDs was why I loved the idea of wiring right into the AP board. But alas, no go. My new AP board is on the way here now. I actually recently came across the BL LED Controller and I’m thinking about trying this out. It seems really cool: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3IA5vlClTug&list=WL&index=33
Might be a good option!
But this is using MQTT and this was the interface Bambu Lab maybe limitate because of security reasons. So you‘re depending on the software support of the BL LED developer and Bambu Lab. The solution based on the relais is working like the original LED and will supported any time, regardless of the software version of the printer.
Once I can free some time I want to get more light in my box, the proper way…
The printer has enough juice on those power lines going to the AMS for example.
But am sure there is more to find once going inside.
In order to keep the light control functions I thought of going this route:
Simple approach first…
Get a nice COB LED strip with enough brightness.
Whack up a simple driver circuit to allow for a Voltage control (to the LED strip) based on the feedback from the original LED light.
If not running on 5V a Voltage divider is added to match it.
Original light turned off - strip off.
Light set to 50% - strip runs at 50%.
Light set to full - you guessed it, strip is at full brightness.
The power comes from either a USB charger or little 12V supply depending on the needs of the strip.
AIO approach:
Tap into the power board to get a line with enough current to spare, 5V, 12V or 24V.
Driver as above.
Beauty of this is that there is nothing to worry in terms of external power supply.
There might be number three though…
I could not find any genuine data for the original LED light.
No measured data either.
But these days, with a 3D printer one could just create a strip to hold 10mm LED’s.
Why 10?
Well, they come with nice beam angles AND are available in ultra low current types - as often used for solar lights of the cheap kind.
I have some hear that reach full brightness already at 12mA instead of the usual 30 for really bright ones and instead of 2.1 to 2.4V they run on just 1.6V.
So rather than trying to mess with the electronics or having to take the machine apart it would be just a matter of replacing the actual LED board with something better that uses the same or less power as the original.
Hello all. I recently ran into the problem where the last of the four jfets that are lined up directly below the LED light output connector burned out. This JFET is rotated 180 degrees to the other three above it (as you look at the board in the installed position). The burn JFET is the one that is immediately to the left of the AP board QR code as you look at the board in the installed position.
Working with my friendly AI, I identified the part as a BF454B, JFET. replacements can be purdchased from MOUSER and their product number is BF454B,215 or from ONSEMI as the 2SK932-23-TB-E for about 60 cents american. I purchased another ap board and installed it and am waiting for Bambu customer support to update the serial number on my x1c so that I can download appropriate firmware. (Really resent this aspect because the printer is no longer under warrantee and they should not be able to control the use of my personal property if there is no concern about warrantee support.)
I solved the problem of COB lighting burning out the LED Driver for the AP board by using the .3A “signal” on the LED connector to drive the opto electronically isolated input (.005mA)_ of the SRD-5VDC-SL-C relay board as someone else did. I chose to 3D print a new housing for that relay, that encloses the wiring for the relay board and the connector for a 110V AC to 5V DC power supply that I turn on when I turn on the surge protector that provides power for the Printer itself. This means that I am not drawing current from anywhere on the AMS or on the printer itself that wasn’t designed into the printer and peripherals originally. I used the MTYTOT 5V DC power supplly (on Amazon) because it came with the connector and a separate female connector with connector terminals.
I attached this box with the cover in place using 3m command hook and loop strips to the back of the printer directly above the AMS filament multiplexor.
Now, i have full control of the lighting via the bambu app, orca slicer or directly on the touchpad. The nice thing is I could add back in the OEM lighting without issue because the relay only uses .005mA to drive the new lighting which is only 1.6% of the available current from the on the board LED driver circuit.