Hi,
I use: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B076FF1DM8
40g glue stick
And works like a charm (cheapest I could find).
1 Like
I’ll only use adhesive for high temp materials… otherwise if you have to use glue stick than there’s settings your missing or have improperly adjusted. The adhesive for High temp is mainly for easy release versus better bonding.
i use this stuff as well in certain cases on x1c and on my ender 3 max i like it because it works and lasts forever wet the sponge applicator and resmear for like a couple weeks on each application
2 Likes
+1 for the Elmer’s glue stick, has to specifically be the purple one though, the normal ones just don’t work as well. No clue why, could quite literally be placebo, idk.
I usually just order one every time I make an order from 3D Printing USA, there have been a couple times where it just put me over the free shipping option, so I usually just order one cause I like to have them around. My kids usually steal them so its good to keep extras 
@theman31337 That’s an interesting idea that somehow never occurred to me. Seems like a great way to get more uses out of each application. Are you rewetting it with water, IPA, or…?
1 Like
I like to wet and re-use gluestick as well, I will usually do IPA to help it evaporate faster, but water also works.
I keep a bottle of water next to the printers and dribble a tiny bit on the sponge and just respread it
2 Likes
Seems like there’s a gazillion to choose from. Exactly which torch do you like the best?
Anyone tried NeedIt? It was the clear winner in a shoot-out review:
and yet it seems to be available from only a single european source, with tracked shipping to the US costing as much as the product itself.
I tried it once, you are correct it is quite good, pain is the rear to get ahold of though. Gluestick is much easier to get ahold of any only marginally worse, ultimately if you aren’t printing like nylon or anything like that you will be ok.
1 Like
@printmaster Gluestick’s advantage is that it’s super cheap and easily sourced, but it’s an extra step to remove the residue that it leaves on the prints. Call me lazy, but I prefer the products that leave no visible trace and so I don’t have to clean it off the print. But that’s just me. If that part doesn’t bother you, then you do you.
1 Like
You just apply light heat to the bottom where the the plastic is grey from the removal stress, and it goes back to its normal colour. Does not work with Silk, but most other filaments like plain PLA, ASA etc works like magic.
2 Likes
Ja, der Preis. Das Zeug ist völlig überteuert.
Reporting back: I continue to be fairly well satisfied with layerneer. It goes on easy and it has a pleasant smell that resembles Cotton Candy grapes. If you’ve never tried those, be sure to put them on your bucket list.
That said, I’m going to order both 3DLac and Dimafix, both of which get very high reviews. At the time I wrote my origninal post, both were difficult to come by in the US. Now there are finally some US vendors, so shipping cost isn’t quite so extreme.
It may be that I don’t truly need to use any of them, but if I’m printing a large ABS print, it’s added insurance against a print lifting from the bed. Belt and suspendors. Call it what you will.
The ultimate for that is visioner’s nano adhesive, but it’s so incredibly strong that I tend to view it as a last resort. The reason being: if you have to abort a print after putting down only a few layers, good luck getting those printed layers off your build plate. The one thing I’ve found that works for that is a good long soaking in water. That seems to be the best antidote. Given enough time, those layers will slide right off. More effective than even freezing, which probably works fine if there’s more layers, but somewhat hit-or-miss in my experience.
I continue to use Bambu liquid glue as a bond breaker to assist in preventing PETG from sticking too tightly to a PEI sheet. In my view, that’s it’s main function.
2 Likes
I don’t use glue sticks anymore and for a while now, my life changed. I clean the plate with soap first. Dry the plate, and use Alcohol. I will never use glue stick again…no way.
When I need some more adherence than usual, I use Glacier plate, or add brim depending on the case. Adios Glue!
Glue is a release agent. In my experience there are some filaments that have a strong bond even after plate cools down… My textured pei plate still has scars from 1st test prints with that not-very-nice-but-oh-so-cheap filament 
In the case of PLA sticking too tightly to a PEI build plate, which on occasion I’ve had happen with support trees, I found a trick which makes it easy to get them off: just heart up the build plate to maximum temperature (110c or 120c), and then it will come off quite easily without any damage using a plastic scraper (such as the bambu scraper that’s one of the default test prints). I’ve seen countless videos where people attempt removal using a metal scraper on a cold build plate, which very often leads to damaging the build plate or even personal injury. Unfortunately, because there are so many videos like that, people think that’s how it’s supposed to be done.
you said it all “oh so cheap”. The problem is not in the plate, or in the process, but in the filament, that should not require any glue (according to me and my experience, but I know that does not make it a rule).