Reporting back: I contacted visionminer, and they said the official shelf-life for their nano polymer adhesive is 3 years., but that in practice you might get longer than that.
What’s the shelf life for the Bamb Liquid-Glue stick?
Reporting back: I contacted visionminer, and they said the official shelf-life for their nano polymer adhesive is 3 years., but that in practice you might get longer than that.
What’s the shelf life for the Bamb Liquid-Glue stick?
I really don’t understand the adhesion issues, I’ve been using my X1 for 2 weeks, 24-7 without any adhesion issues, raw cool plate PLA. However, my preferred adhesion is Elmer’s Disappearing Purple Glue. Washes right of with worn water.
Elmer’s Purple.
Go Jumbo or Giant size for wider coverage.
I agree it always works great.
Tried also the Elmer’s Purple glue stick.
That glue is even better then the Bambu original.
Filament sticks the same level on the plate, printed object releases nearly the same after printing and can be wasched of with water like the Bambu.
With the Jumbo 40g stick you can even apply the glue way easier and faster on the plate.
Price was 12€ for 5x 40g.
Thanks for that amazing tipp guys!
I do a lot of PLA, specifically silk, that said, I buy the Target generic brand purple glue sticks. So far I cannot tell the difference between Bambu and Target.
Again, I only print PLA and I’m using the cool plate. Millage may very depending on your needs and uses.
Aqua Net Extra Hold is what I use almost exclusively. Never have a problem and one can lasts a very long time.
Clever combination (3Dlac and Dimafix). I’ve been using them for years on glass and with the arrival of the X1C today, I’m going to use them here as well.
it’s nearly 6 am, i’m procrastanting writing a paper due in a few hours and OMG that gave me a solid giggle. thank you.
I have the same issues with the textured PEI sheet that came with the P1S.
Blockquote I also guess it’s time for PEI
I find I need to use the Bambu supplied glue stick with the Bambu texured PEI sheet that came with my P1S.
I have the same issue with the textured PEI sheet that came with the P1S. I have time lapse videos were I can see parts starting to walk around the build plate.
I’ve come to realize that there is no single silver bullet that covers all scenarios, and the reason is that you’re constantly trying to find the right goldy locks balance between sticking too much and sticking not well enough. And that in turn is going to vary depending on the filament you’re using and the temperature of the print plate and even the size and height and even the geometry (sharp corners) of the model that you’re printing. Repeatability is the one good thing you can count on.
To that end, I think all of the tips posted above are good ones to have in your tool kit, so that you have options when the need arises.
3DLAC spray every time. Nice clean plate, a wee short spray - done well away from printer and its good for sticking / releasing a good few prints before cleaning / re spray.
Using this on a textured PEI that needs very little attention and a cool plate that requires the cleaning / spray cycle more often.
Takes very little spray and a tin lasts for ages.
Reporting back: I tried the visioneer nano adhesive but found it to be so strong that it’s really better used in just special cases where nothing else will prevent warpage and peeling from the bed.
For less extreme scenarios, such as involving PLA, I’m liking this Layerneer stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079984GV5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
because it holds the print when the build plate is hot yet easily releases after it cools off. I was skeptical and bought it on the off-chance it might work, and I’m glad that I did. I think it definitely helps to have a lot of different options at one’s fingertips rather than relying too heavily on any one method.
Nano polymer is the best stuff i’ve tried. Yes its expensive, but lasts a long time. You dont need much and it only needs to be re-applied every 5-10 prints or more, does not leave a residue on the bottom either. Best used on a smooth plate as it will spread better then on a textured plate, a few random drops will cover the whole plate.
For the first time ever I got this tiny component Octopus to print without a Raft or brim, and it was Windex that did it!! Amazing!
Thank you for the advice.
With the nano polymer, are there any markings on the bottom of the print that can’t be washed off, but are visible at certain angles of light?
I have tried the Bambu glue stick and also their liquid glue stick, both make markings on the bottom that can’t be washed off. The best thing so far for me is Aquanet hairspray, it works very well when used properly, it is completely smooth on the bottom of the part.
As i mentioned no residue on the bottom like from PVA glue. I often print control panel boxes for commercial clients face down with white text on a black panel and nano polymer leaves it looking perfect. Sometimes dues to too much adhesion the plastic can turn slightly grey from stress when removed, but that is easily fixed with some heat from a blow torch. Its a neat trick a a must have tool for 3D printing!
How do you use the blow torch?