I am the proud owner of a brand new P1S printer.
So far I have done nothing fancy and the printer have printed for maybe 10 hours in total so far. (Don’t know if there is a place you can check this?)
I have printed a few 3D-benchy boats which turned out pretty decent while experimenting with layer heights, a couple of small premade models and so on.
Now, today I have tried to print a battery dispencer for AAA and AA batteries with totally default settings and default speed.
I would expect that the printer was able to print straight walls with standard settings, but this was not the case here.
The “loose hanging line” I suspect might be from lack of supports, so that I can test again at a later time, but I don’t wan’t to re-print the model before knowing if I do anything wrong regarding the walls and so on.
The printer is placed on a self-made shelf that should be just about as stable as the floor itself and I always do the ABL before starting my prints. (Also did a calibration when I placed the printer)
The print is done with open door and the top lid removed.
(Funnily enough, the 3dbenchy I did a while back with 0.1mm layer height and closed door/top lid actually turned out pretty good, miles better than this model)
Now, do I need to adjust my printer, or do I need to adjust my expectations?
Printed with Bambu PLA basic filament and profile in Bambu Studio.
Bonus question: Will you normally see an increase/decrease in quality if printing with PETG or ABS instead of PLA? I have some rolls of that as well, but thought it would be best to “learn” on PLA before opening them.
To my experiance PETG prints worse than PLA or ABS.
I suspect the lines which you probably dont like are a result or rounding. The printer can position only in full steps. So if the size increase linear and lets say by 2.05 steps per layer the printer will instead increase by 2 steps And after ten layers it has increased by 20 steps, where it should have by 20.5. So next layer it adds not 2 but 3. And so you see from time to time a “jump”.
Regarding the original post:
I have not retried that spesific model, I think I will just let it be.
However, I have tried some other models, and I thought I would share in case some other beginners are experiencing the same issues as me.
I have decreased outer wall/inner wall to 80 mm/s and decreased layer height to 0,1mm.
Also I have kept the top lid on, and the door only half way open.
The difference in quality is amazing, and I believe most of the difference in quality comes from the speed settings on your outer/inner walls.
Try something using just generic PLA also. Slicer slows everything down and it gives somewhat better finish. And Bambu filament works with generic fine. (as does most generic with Bambu filament settings.)
For that print you can change the wall sequence to outer inner. It’s not good for models with overhangs, as there isn’t anything for the outer wall line to adhere to. But you’ll get better wall quality and accuracy in most other situations.
As for your PETG ABS question, PLA is the most forgiving. I find ABS fantastic to print with, as long as you can warm the chamber to at least 40 degrees C. PETG prints well too and I find is more durable (flexible) than PLA or ABS. But a lot of people seem to have issues with PETG too.
The “loose hanging lines” may be solved by support. If you had an AMS, a single layer of PVA support for PLA could be used between these long, flat horizontal sections and the support, making the support easier/cleaner to remove.
Another option is to improve the design in CAD so that it is more suited for 3D printing, by narrowing the vertical slits and adding a bevel at the top of them so that there is some overlap between successive layers.
Or consider separating the front face and printing it flat as a separate, high-quality print with a few small tabs or clips to attach it to the rear body.
The wavy walls look really poor quality, so try solve this by re-running all the calibration procedures. Then repeatedly print a small, vertical section to save filament and time, while settings are adjusted until the problem is solved. The small block in this article is great for quick, cheap tuning: Manual Flow Rate Tuning for better looking prints | Bambu Lab Wiki
Once you’ve optimised the settings for the printer and this specific filament, save the filament settings.
