I have two AMS 2 Pros, one connected without power supply, the other with a power adapter. One goes to the Left nozzle, the other the right. I’ve had 0 problems with this configuration.
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I’m not sure but it could be because the bottom input is the same as the dedicated tpu nozzle? If you’re only running one ams it makes sense not to put it on that one.
You’re supposed to be able to hook up 25 colors including the external full. I assume tha t the only way to do this is just by using 4 - 1 adapters. Otherwise that would be a heck of a lot of hubs.
So are you still you can put three AMS units to one nozzle without a hub?
Thought the dedicated TPU entry is a separate different nozzle…
It is a different entry but that entry has to connect to a nozzle right? It makes sense to not have it on the same nozzle as your AMS if you’re only running one ams.
That is incorrect. The filament buffers that are usually in the hub are built directly into the H2D, so you can use as many AMS units as you like (up to 4, and 8 AMS HTs) with just a splitter. I dont think the hub would even work if plugged into the H2D as it was not designed to operate with it, and there is no place to mount it either.
Here is a direct quote from Bambu wiki:
This is how you connect them, with 4 into 1 splitters or you can even print one. I used a printed splitter on my P1 and X1 with 8000 hours of problem free operation.
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Thank you for the info! I stand corrected. This is great
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Yes - I have done exactly that.
The answer is quite simple, the main positive of the second nozzle is multi-material as type not as color. In a multi-color print environment you’ll have few dominant colors and more to change. Are they all on right or left nozzle AMS makes no difference so better to put them on one side only, as the second nozzle will spare you the material of only one color change. However if you want to print with few colors of each material type, then you’ll need AMS on each nozzle.
H2D comes with only 1 AMS as this is enough for most use cases.
You cannot even compare BambuLab and Ender 3. If you want good prints with little to no failures and a little set-up P1S is enough.
If you prefer having more sensors then go for X1C.
If you want the capablity to print with different materials in one print like PLA+PETG (yes you can do this), PLA+TPU, etc. and aditionally you believe that BambuLab will update the firmware so 0.4 + 0.2 nozzle print is possible, then better invest in H2D.
As for me I landed on this post because I want AMS-HT on one nozzle and AMS 2 Pro on the other.
Can I print without the AMS-HT - yes I can, but I want it for the drying functionality.
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Thank you for your detailed explaination. I was starting to debate a setup similar to what you describe due to the higher heating of the single roll HT and looking into despicable PVA which needs this. Such a shame the AMS2 can’t reach those slightly higher temps.
In my mind it logically makes sense that AMS2 across multiple heads must be quicker if you plan which AMS to put which colour in (and apparently the software auto does this) I.e. if the print is mostly white but has red blue and green in it, then having one head do white + support and another doing colours would surely be quicker than one doing white+colour together and changing constantly? but I’m FAR from an expert.
We are still trying to work through with the ender, although did just have to buy a replacement hotend as a PLAsilk print completely destroyed it. But if I do buy I think it would be only the H2D or X11’s, probably H2D as always like latest tech and seems silly to get something older, though my only concern is obviously proven reliability vs new and potentially buggy. We shall see. Thanks again though.
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