So, there are the four printer types: A1, P1P, P1S and X1. The biggest difference I would argue between these four are that 2 are enclosed and 2 are not (forgetting for a mo that one could mod the P1P).
We as consumers are gently persuaded to use an AMS, Bambu Labs Studio, Nozzle and plate with Bambu Filament, the later having the RFID to determine the filament.
Correct me if I am wrong here, with this approach the filament will print differently in each printer and it appears the Bambu Labs filament profiles are generic across all the four printers, and so needs modding each time, so then why buy Bambu labs filament if Bambu studio doesn’t provide better filament profiles for each printer?
For instance, the enclosure is quite important for ABS et al, but is perhaps a hindrance for other types of filament due to heat build-up. One can experiment by having the door open and removing the top glass plate, but I do feel these profiles should take into account if the printer is enclosed (so change cooling of the filament) or not rather than getting the consumer to in effect mod the printer.
Why is this a issue, well for some filaments it is recommended to remove the top glass plate, but that glass plate is what the AMS sits on. The AMS is however too narrow to sit on the printer with the plate removed, so now we are in a quandary! Where does the AMS go? In every picture of a BL printer and AMS it sits on the top of it and in my case I don’t have room to the side.
So it would be nice if the AMS could sit on the printer with the glass off, perhaps on legs too. It would also be nice if filaments were aware that they were being printed in enclosed or non-enclosed environments so that glass plate doesn’t need removing and doors left open!
I am much a noob at this printing malarky so I may have missed something obvious if so do shout!
For my P1S I am not convinced: The AMS drops further into the cavity than the glass does, so it partially sits (5kg+) on the filament pipe and drive chain. In the photo you can see daylight either side. If the AMS was a bit fatter it would sit outside the chamber.
Ironically I suspect a simple 3D printed solution would fix this
Use the Bambu filament if you want to take advantage of their RFID or if you want to use their profiles. I don’t have an AMS, so RFID is useless to me and I don’t find it difficult to create my own filament profiles after calibration testing. Most Bambu generic profiles are very good but I can often get slightly better results after using them as a starting point for OrcaSlicer calibrations.
I don’t see a need for printer model-specific filament profiles. The main settings will work for A1, P1, or X1. Some fine tuning for an individual printer might be helpful, but that would be true when using multiple printers of the same model due to inevitable manufacturing differences, sensor responses, and environmental conditions
A filament profile is limited in what it can do to change the printing environment, so both open and enclosed conditions are needed for filaments with different cooling requirements. You need open for PLA to allow air movement. Open is recommended for PETG, some print it closed, I suspect different environments are involved. You could turn up the fans even more but that may not allow enough air exchange without more fans; folks already complain about fan noise. I don’t consider moving the lid or opening the door a “mod”, it is just a different setting of the equipment.
Really? You would melt and squeeze and stretch self-aware filament?!! The horror!!!
The Bambu plates allow automatic checking to be sure the installed plate matches the sliced file. That has saved me a few times when I had the wrong plate (or no plate) in place. You can do without that check, or add ID stickers to aftermarket plates, but I’ve just found it easier to use a Bambu plate. I prefer not to risk plate destruction with a print that sticks too well, or have a wasted print because of poor adhesion.
The horror!!!
