I just received a replacement First Stage Feeder from the store and when I removed the old one, I noticed scorch marks around the terminals on the motor.
Has anyone had that happen or had those feeders fail on them. Just mainly puzzled as to how that would happen to be able to see signs of flashover residue.
Maybe solder flux residue?
The original feed had the scorch marks and was running constantly and grinding plastic gears. It had been fine for months. When I removed it, I noticed the scorch/flash residue, which the replacement motor did not have.
When I swapped the assembly, it then started working as expected with the new motor.
Mainly trying to run down what would cause the motor to fail and leave telltale residue behind.
No trash or unexpected material in the AMS housing.
Only thing I can come up with is the motor windings failed and caused a short but that is just a guess on my part.
Replaced with new unit and all seems fine today.
Just curious if anyone else has seen this motor fail and leave residue behind.
Without picture I really can’t visualize in my head what was the problem with your first stage motor.
A DC motor, if seized but still voltage applied, would be cooked in seconds or a minute. Unless the motor controller has mechanism to stop providing DC current to motor when seizing detected, like how PC fan retries spinning after a few seconds when you block the fan blades.
Sometime, the carbon brushes (or cheap copper brushes) worn out so much or it was just bad that it wouldn’t touch the split ring commutator anymore. This could be the results of the arcing that ate away a bit of the brush, or the seize heated up the brushes enough to deform the plastic bottom cap and the brushes came loose.
This is just a picture I steal from the internet. Cheap motor for cheap toy car like this is not really built for long lasting.
I haven’t disected an AMS first stage motor yet but I’ve been playing around with those cheap toy motors since I was a little kid. They are just not good for continuously working for long period of time.
I removed the problem feeder and installed it so now I’m good with two AMS units with a total of 8 slots and no grinding.
White circles are where the arc flash marks are located.
I just now removed the clear cover on the old problem feeder to inspect gear etc.
Motor spins freely as do the various the drive gears in the feeder. As of right now I’m going with it being a bad motor.
Anyone know what the voltage is on those little motors.
Also, you ain’t living until you try and put that clear cover back on.
This sticker in picture was on the new feeder. There was not a sticker on the old feeder. Wonder what that is all about?
I have an adjustable power supply and would like to put some power on the old feeder and see what happens. There is a harness that is 7 wire to large board in AMS that splits into a 2 wire to motor and 5 wire to tiny board that is probably for filament break detection. among other things.
Thinking maybe set a very low voltage to motor and ramp up
I think it would be solder flux residue. Because those two spot must be soldered manually to the motor and usually people are lazy to clean it up in a ultrasonic bath full of IPA.
This is just to cover a screw that holds the clear plastic housing and grey plastic housing. A typical method to void warranty if you tear the sticker.
From my speculation from the AMS mainboard, it would feed 24v voltage to the motor, so the motor is probably rated about 24V and 2W.
Yeah, you can try ramping the voltage from 0 volt and up slowly. But first use digital multimeter and measure the resistance of the motor first, I think it should be in range of 10 Ohm to 1000 Ohm. If my guess is correct, it should be about 300 Ohm
Definitely will check motor with multi-meter first.
Possible that it will show an open or a short before I even apply power to it.
Wonder what is the deal with that VOID decal.
They have no qualms about having owner of printer totally disassembling the tool head which heart of printer but don’t you disassemble the AMS feeder.