I thing that I have the same problem. For me the stepper motor on the output is the problem. I thing. It get warm and stop to work. Just opens the ticket. Let’s see what will happen.
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Thank you all for your interest and advice.
I want to clarify that I’m not really a 3D printing virgin even if I’m not an expert.
Before the X1 Carbon I printed for three years with my Ender 3 which over time, like everyone else, I adapted to my needs.
I have to clarify this to explain that I have a minimum of familiarity with bowden tubes and for this reason the first solution I tried was to replace the entire line, even with the Capricorn tubes I had at home.
Since I’m no engineer and the Capricorns had no effect I replaced them with a 2.5 x 4 mm tube; the Capricorn tubes have an internal diameter of about 1.9mm while those of the Bambu of 2.5mm.
I told myself that if any engineers factory-installed 2.5mm tubing they must have had their reasons…
I also tried to smooth out any bends that felt too tight and went so far as to remove the ptfe splice at the back of the printer by installing a single piece of tubing from the hub up to the extruder.
To update you: I shortened the tube that goes from the AMS to the printer, before it was 110cm and now it’s about 85cm.
I then removed from behind the printer every object that could even touch the ptfe tube (noise filter and lateral support for the spool).
Now, with the short tube and no contact with anything else, things are much better.
I went from a certain block to a sporadic retraction block from time to time.
In my opinion, the real problem is the low torque exerted by the motor of the so-called “AMS filaments hub”.
I don’t think it’s a problem of engine strength, but rather the impossibility for the user to be able to configure the thrust force as his needs change.
I have the impression that when the AMS control logic detects a certain resistance (factory configured within a strict parameter), it blocks loading or retraction.
I think an “auto-configuration” function of the thrust and retraction torque of the motor could be useful; in this way, if over time the user varies the length of the hose or something else, he will be able to restore the right amount of force to the motor.
I hope what I wrote is understandable, it is the result of an automatic translator.
Thanks again everyone
FWIW, I have a brand new Carbon X1 with AMS. I am also experiencing the “failed to extract filament from the extruder issue”. I must manually extract the filament after every print. A YouTube video saved me much effort by suggesting that I can just disconnect the feed tube in the back, “jiggle” the filament, and then reinsert the tube into the connector. That seems to work every time - but is a major inconvenience. I’m hoping to find a reliable fix.
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It’s been 5 times that BambuLab has responded to my ticket. They told me to check the restrictions, if I had stuck filaments, the connections of my connectors, the wires etc… I just go around in circles. I’ve taken my AMS to pieces 20 times and checked everything they tell me. Last week, my AMS started flashing red twice so nothing works now. They replied to me that there was a detection of filament in both: the first-stage feeder and the AMS filament hub. How can I have two detections when I couldn’t even put a wire in it. They know it well, because I aleady told them that I had checked everything. I will once again tell them that everything is correct. I think the electronic card is the problem. I hope they will give me a real solution instead of making me do the same checks over and over again.
I feel your pain on the headaches of AMS not unloading. I have had that off and on since I got it. So far the one thing that has seemed to help has been printing and installing these.
Bambu AMS Feeder Button (w/PTFE tubing)
I just printed mine out of PLA. I think the reason these have helped is that they reduce the sharp angle between the filament and 1st stage feeder opening thereby reducing the load required to pull the filament back.
This is what I have been doing.
Agree with @PaulT that the Feeder Button will probably fix your problem.
That’s what I think was the issue on mine as well. That the filament was coming in at too hard of an angle and was digging into the funnel and catching on it. The Feeder Button along with PTEF tubing keep it going in nice and straight.
Originally I thought the whole funnels were bad and ordered 4 new ones, but several others in this thread have had success with a Feeder Button fixing the issue so I’m hoping that’s all it is.
@Jrock also had this problem and ordered new funnels, but the Feeder Button fixed the issue before his arrived. He reported that his new funnels appear to be made of different plastic, so we’re hoping this isn’t such an issue on the AMS and new funnels moving forward. I’d still recommend Feeder Buttons to anyone, even if you aren’t having the issue yet, as the funnels are a wear and tear item.
I was pondering what to print the buttons out of and that led to a quick dive into the most abrasion resistant filament. It’s a moot point if you use the PTFE tube version, but if you want the original button design you want them to last.
The winner by clear margin was IGUS filaments. For those not familiar, IGUS is the company (German?) that makes ultra low friction bearings and gears. I suspect the bearings on our printers for the X axis are from them.
They have a number of ultra low friction filaments, but the price range varies from about $60 USD for 750g reels to over $775 per reel. 
$60 for 750g is expensive but not out of range for most X1C owners.
If you’ve an interest in their offerings - 3D Printing Filament | igus®
On an unrated note - They do offer 3D printing services and also have a free access CAD Library that has Gears, Sliders, and Bearings that you can insert into your fav CAD app.
I went with the PTFE version solely for wear
Easier and faster to replace a small piece of tube than to reprint a new piece
As for functionality of the different versions they all serve their purpose which to me is more of a guide for the filament to feed straight
The fact that PTFE tubing is slippery might aid in reducing the force needed from the assist motors but that would be the ‘moot’ part of the conversation lol
Bottom line is they work beautifully and I’ve definitely been putting them to the test
I suspect this the way I will go, mine aren’t being naughty (yet) but I favor the PTFE tube version and may go with Capricorn since I have some handy and it’s even tougher than standard.
I primarily wanted to share the IGUS info, we all love to have extra arrows in our quivers, eh?
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Many many thanks for your advice.
All the solutions I’ve tried so far initially seemed to work, the one you suggested really works.
I printed it in pla+ and inserted a piece of PTFE about 3 cm., so far no blocks!
Obviously I will come back to update you, for now thanks again to all.
Thanks for the advice.
Igus is a fantastic material even if a little expensive.
A couple of years ago a friend lent me some to make the gearbox gear for my daughter’s electric quad; the quad still runs beautifully!
YW!
I was changing the X rods on a little Monoprice Select years ago and wanted to try carbon fiber rods. I contacted IGUS US and inquired what size bearings I would need and how much. They sent me 4 of them free.
This is how business needs to be done, you make customers for life.
I am tempted to get some for gears and such, good to know they last. The X1C runs hot enough to print their low temp stuff, I saw some that wanted a 185°C CHAMBER temp to print right … Wow.
Do you have experience with the igus filaments in bambu because I cannot see profiles, and the bambu software does not allow you to make.
I have found some that had problems with clogging of the i150 and i151 but no indications of success.
I have rolls of both but no need to use the expensive filament before we get to the parts that needs to be food safe
I assume since you are promoting it that you have experience.
Could you share?
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Sadly I do not currently have any IGUS filament. My experiences were from a few years ago and the post was a general ‘PSA’ and a thumbs up for the company as a general comment.
Bambu Studio does let you make your own filament settings and profile settings.
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/preset
https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/software/bambu-studio/how-to-set-slicing-parameters
You can choose a filament that’s close to an unsupported one and modify the settings then save it with a new name. I usually use something like:
MatterHacker PETG Blue .6 Nozzle for quick choice later.
As for the clogging - What size nozzle are you using? Most “advanced” plastics generally work better with a larger nozzle of .6 or even .8mm. The IGUS plastics probably have particles embedded the same as ‘wood’ filaments do. That requires more room to prevent clogs.
I’ve never tried contacting IGUS for help, but most companies will offer tech support for their filaments, they do want happy customers! 
Finally, this thread was about the AMS loading/unloading issues. If you have questions like this you should start a new post with your issues.
You’ll get many more people seeing it and some may have much more knowledge than I do on the subject! 
Cheers!
Thanks for answering, and for the advice.
For printing motion parts, bearings and brushings, linear nuts… we have a hard time increasing to nozzle size as it really defeats the purpose of using low friction plastics if we print high friction parts.
YW! My pleasure {Small Bow}
I can see that on the nozzle size. But … physics … LOL
If you go larger you solve one problem but then introduce post processing smoothing. That dust wouldn’t be good to breath either, eh?
Seriously, ask the general community. The worst that happens is you get no answer, but someone may have a brilliant idea for you.
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I have the same problem. The filament is loaded and unloaded from the extruder. I don’t understand why this is happening. I followed all the steps from the Bambu Wiki and everything seems to be fine. In a moment I’m shooting a video, attaching logs and sending it to technical support.
After trying all sorts of solutions it seems to have solved by installing covers on the buttons of the AMS.
The model I’m using now is this: Printables
I suggest you try it, I added about 5cm of ptfe and I’ve had no more problems.
Yes, I am having the same issue in my slot three on my AMS when unloading the filament, I have to pull out the filament there dee grooves that were cut into the filament are so deep then when it tries to retract the filament, it hangs in the tube like teeth. When pull the tube on the back a fill the filament each slot only 3rd slot is cuts so deep. I’ve been asking Support for an answer and they want me to take a video. I’m not quite sure how I take a video of what happens inside the AMS and the tube. And they’ve asked me to videotape the inner workings of the AMS and the filament going through the tubes three times.
After reading through the help section, I think I’m going to get some carbon fiber filament and run it through my third slot in the AMS and see if this will wear down the gears enough so it doesn’t cut the filament so bad I cannot come up with any better answer. My micro camera is a quarter inch across so it will not go in the tubes to see the inside work. I think it’s their excuse not to deal with people it’s just keep asking for videos for something that they know cannot be videotaped, and that irritates the ever loving stew out of me.
I have the same issues, bought two X1C printers. And both AMS units have trouble pulling back filament. Especially from 3 and 4.
I’ve tried the AMS Feeder Button mod, no change.
And I’ve tried the ShortStack ptfe hotend guide mod, no change.
Done this to both my printers, AMS units still acting up.
I also tried replacing the PFTE tubes in one of my AMSs with ones with larger ID. Still no change there either.