Oh yes - usually I’ve found that if a filament is fragile enough to break in the tubes or while loading / unloading it means the filament has absorbed moisture and needs drying. I always flex a filament with my fingers before loading and if it is brittle I go dry it.
in that case i should get broken filament if i unload the Filament. But this works flawless.
Edit: I after the 5. print attempt it worked after i clicked try again.
Someone had this Problem and know the reason why it so often fails?
Or does someone know how i can unload a Filamenmt during paused print and load it again so that the print can continue without start again from beginning?
AHHH! In that case it’s obviously not broken filament in the tubes.
Have you tried blowing canned air through the tubes? Perhaps some dust or …? Just a thought. IDK if they’re using optical sensors. Just trying to help ya.
I have Problems with one Feeder without anything inside the tubes. I disassembled the feeder and the 4-way-Switch and cleaned both of them without any positive result. I also tried different pla-brands and all had the same issues.
I was having a similar issue with the third stage filament on my X1 Carbon. I believe the issue is that the rollers are not turning the spool to pull the filament back to the AMS and are instead slipping. I chalked it up to using a modified cardboard Overture spool (printed the adapter for cardboard spools). The way I fixed is when I had the error message I clicked retry then used a pair of needle nose pliers to manually pull back the filament. It took quite a bit more tension than what I had thought it would, but it freed up then I was able to get it to retract. I was worried that I may have flattened the filament with the pliers and was going to have issues when this color was switched back to later on in the print, but it actually printed just fine.
I too am having an issue with the AMS retracting the filament from the 3rd bay, how ever when I try and help pull the filament out it feels as though it is being held or stuck on something. I ended up taking apart the hot end and extruder but there were no jams. When I first got the printer I had the PAHT-CF installed in that bay and it worked just fine with retractions. As soon as I switched it out to PLA I have had nothing but problems with it now.
I just started having issues with this the last few days with my AMS compatible Bambu Lab CF filaments seeming to be the problem.
It feels like it’s caught on something and won’t budge. If I remove the tube that enters the chamber, I can manually pull it out every time and get it going again.
Check the funnel in the AMS feed, my new funnels will be here tomorrow
#3 is worn on one edge and causing feed issues, I watched it to see why and noticed because of the wear its feeding the filament off center not fully on the metal drive gear
They’re cheap and obviously wear out so I ordered 6 new funnels, a couple of filament refills and some cold plate decals while I was there
They’re excellent engineers, I’m sure this was debated at length - do we make it with metal parts and drive the cost through the roof or do we just make the modules replaceable at a reasonable cost.
Guess we know which won.
I would have voted that way too as it makes sense. The AMS would have been much more expensive the other way. Design is always trade offs.
This may not be your problem but I’ll throw this up as a reminder / tip for those reading this - Be sure you straighten the last inch of the filament before feeding and make sure it has a clean square end!
Me too. I remember thinking that the rough texture would give it great grip for the driving mechanism, and wondered if silk or other highly smooth filament would be more prone to feed problems.
I haven’t looked at BL’s instruction for cleaning the reel drive rollers, but from many years of fixing copiers, printers, etc. I’d like to remind people do not use alcohol to clean the rubber parts!! If you think of what it does to your hands you’ll get it. It dries them out and they turn hard.
So what do you use? here are a few methods that work -
Brake fluid. Yeah, you hear right. It has compounds to restore the rubber components in the brake system, you don’t want a rotted seal or hose killing you. Obviously used very sparingly and cleaned off dry.
The easy one everyone has - H20 on a towel. Not as good and doesn’t soften them but doesn’t hurt them. Some say distilled, but tap is fine.
Not a cleaner but wanted to throw this out as it’s a way to revitalize rubber and works very well (good to have in your bag of tricks) - https://www.amazon.com/Krytox-Grease-PFPE-PTFE-Syringe/dp/B00WE0DEKC This stuff is more expensive than printer ink, and the price fluctuates wildly! That said, a tiny bit goes a long ways. Put on a thin cloth and apply. This is used to soften the rubber seal on convertible roofs and car doors. Quote - “Krytox Grease is non-toxic, has no chlorine content or hazardous VOC materials, is odorless and silicone-free in formulation”
It’s used to soften the rubber seals on McDonalds Ice Cream Machines … LOL. Seriously, it’s used in food grade applications. It is also excellent as a grease for plastic to plastic pivot points, gears, any plastic to plastic (or metal) contact points. Lasts a long time and you use a tiny bit. It’s been my go to for years in electronics maintenance and repairs. Much better than Lithium and others. There’s different versions, get the GL-205 one and shop for price as it’s available in tubes as well, but the one with the syringe is the best as it has a tiny Teflon applicator. Expensive as heck but worth every penny.
Is he done? Yeah. Last one is easy - buy new rollers from the BL Store.
Cheers All!
Can you take a pic of your worn out one for reference?
I swapped to a different spot in the AMS and had the same issue. I don’t think I’ve gotten through a full roll of any of my CF filaments, so hopefully these aren’t wearing out at a crazy pace.
I guess some new funnels are getting ordered by me today since I got several more CF spools in bound.
I know you’ve been printing a lot. Think it’s just the more abrasive filaments that wore your particular funnel out?
I’m considering getting an abrasive specific AMS to try and make maintenance a little easier if this is going to be the new normal. If I didn’t even get through one roll without it causing problems, I’m not sure if I’d consider these Bambu Lab CF filaments “AMS compatible.” But I’m pretty sure collectively we can figure something out that makes these more usable if that truly is the case.
Yeah, you hear right. 
