I’m fairly new to 3D printing, and the H2D is my first printer. I purchased bambu filament when I bought it, but I needed some more colors quickly. I found a Texas supplier (bonus as I’m in Texas) named “Zyltech”. I’m having issues tweaking my printer to use it effectively. I’ve read the FAQ on Zyltech’s site, but the information provided just gives the temp range and recommends not to cool first 2 layers. I tried the “default pla” profile but it wasn’t looking quite right (slow to print compared to bambu), so I created a profile and adjusted the temperatures and fan. My novice experience isn’t sure if I should mess with the other settings so I’m curious if anyone here has the settings for Zyltech PLA filament you use with success that you’d share. Thanks in advance!
We need to know what “wasn’t looking quite right” means, perhaps a photo. And what did you adjust already? Frequently lower temps are recommended by PLA manufacturers for slower printers, higher temps than what they suggest are needed for modern fast printers like H2D. It all depends on how up to date their recommendations are, PLA is PLA and generic profile should be very close to perfect. Usually you tune the flow rate first and temps as a last resort, unless its some super specialty type PLA.
It was just slow to print on the generic PLA profile. I was trying to see if anyone had used it specifically and had perhaps tuned the settings. No worries, I’m still learning.
Are you using high flow hot ends? You can use the “High Speed PLA” profile for slightly faster print speed if that PLA can flow fast enough. Also what layer height are you using? The “balanced quality/balanced strength” and “0.12” and “0.08” are are slow printing speed profiles, the “standard” profiles are the only full speed ones.
Zyltech is a few miles from my house. I have been in their shop several times (buying printer parts, not filament) and I can tell you that they are legit. Maybe give them a call, and they will surely help you out.
Learn about max volumetric speed in the filament settings. Watch a YouTube video to help you understand what it is and how it works.
I actually have spoken to them, they advised me to use the “Generic PLA” profile. That works, but it’s much slower to print vs bambu. It may just be the nature of that filament, but I’m testing a few of them to compare to bambu.
I have used a bunch of Zyltech filament, mostly PLA and their gradient/rainbow silk PLA’s. I recommend you run through the calibration tests in OrcaSlicer, if for no other reason than to get used to doing it for a new filament, but below are settings I’ve been using that work for me. I tend to use a smooth PEI plate, and can get quite a few prints done successfully before I have to wash the plate again.
I don’t think I made any changes to the cooling… no cooling for the first layer.
PLA (0.4mm SS nozzle):
Silk PLA (0.4mm SS nozzle):
Thank you, that’s very helpful. I’ve also noticed that I need to increase my bed temperature, or I have first layer adhesion issues. I don’t see that issue with Bambu filament, so I bumped up the bed plate by 10 degrees for that filament and it’s been working much better.