Hello. I use my 3D printers as tools, so I’m not entirely familiar with settings that could possibly, and hopefully solve my problem.
This is the first model I’ve run into this issue. I’ve printed it on the X1 Carbon and another printer (the Ankermake M5) and I see these artifacts to matter what the quality or speed settings are set to.
The model is the Nomad probe from Star Trek.
You can see the artifacts I’m talking about next to the holes/ports in the model. All the walls next to the holes should be flat.
Any suggestions you can give would be very much appreciated.
This is probably due to speed differences. So uncheck adaptive speed (not sure how exactly it is called) and after slicing you can see the speed differences in the model when you select speed in the upper right pull down menu.
The cause of this can be multiple as are the solutions. What you are seeing here is that filament flow is being interrupted and staring and stopping. Think of it as when you have a squirt bottle of ketchup or mustard on a hot dog or any viscous liquid. As you first squeeze the bottle, a big goop comes out, as you speed up the travel it thins out, if you slow down it piles up. Same thing happens with your filament which acts very much like a hot glue gun.
Since you say your not very familiar with the mechanics of 3D printing I’ll try to keep this at a high level.
Moisture in the filament spool. While unlikely for PLA, it can happen especially with Matte or Silk PLA.
Now please note that you might be tempted to just alter these setting at random. You might get lucky. But if you want to spare yourself a lot of aggravation, carve out time to learn and master filament tuning. Here are the best resources for starting out.
Switch over to using Orca Slicer vs Bambu Studio. Orca is a clone of Bambu Studio but has many quality of life enhancements. It is created and supported by 3d Printer enthusiast and derived from the Bambu Studio source code. You can use both slicers on the same machine so there is no downside to use both, but Orca has calibration utilities where Bambu Studio does not.
Good video for detailed calibration using Orca. There are others but this gent does a fairly robust job of explaining why. Just ignore his advice about Temp towers, he admits he doesn’t understand them.
That is “a trap for young players”. Never assume the filament is dry from the package as most often it is not. Filament doesn’t come “Pre dried” or I haven’t ever seen packaging that states that.
If it’s PLA then it’s ddefinitely not moisture.
Like I said, try to change the settings that the speed is the same for the line with and without a hole.
Also, my first printer was an XYZ da Vinci 1.0 original back in 2014. I think back then it would take me 10 hours to do a 5 hour print because 5 hours would be spent getting the damn bed level enough to get a good print.
But even back then, I was more interested in using the printer as a tool so I never got into the tinkering or hobby side of 3D printing. All of the tinkering was to get the bed level, whether it be that printer, my Enders or my Prusa Mini.
So I really don’t believe this has anything to do with the filament, but rather some print setting I’ve never dealt with due to the nature of this model.
Try with the “slow down for overhangs” unchecked and set after slicing the color scheme filter to speed. Then check if the colors of the layers were the holes are in have the same color of the layers without the holes. If yes then print again maybe a portion of the model to be sure the lines are gone.
hey, I’m not sure if you’ve solved this but I’m having a VERY similar looking artifact on my prints that I’ve narrowed down to my use of Arachne wall generator. In Classic, it vanishes. In arachne, it has striping like yours always in the same part of the print. And none of it is visible in the slicer.
Also interestingly, if I turn the print orientation 90 deg, it prints clean.
Ah, well the learning continues! I was hoping that would help and you could then lend some insight into my situation. I’ll probably start a new topic for it.
Sounds like you’re onto something in slowing it down, good luck!
That is just flat out incorrect. PLA can have high enough moisture content to cause print problems and there is example on example here where people have had moisture issues with PLA that have been solved by drying the filament.
YOUR PLA might not have moisture problems but it depends on your ambient humidity, how you store your filament, print settings, if you dry it (apparently you don’t), etc.
I had moisture problems with PLA. Here’s an example and the dry part that didn’t lift was printed with dried filament. The wet part that lifted was filament that had not been dried. You absolutely can have moisture issues with PLA.
