24 hours in with 1000% unsuccessful prints and have just discovered that too many retractions make nozzles clog. Too bad, there was a nice quad copter frame just posted to maker world that stops printing at 20-30 layers due to clogged nozzle. In fact I have unclogged this machine over 12 times in 24 hours with this filament. Thankfully the AMS makes this an absolute Pain in the ___ with having to turn machine off and back on multiple times. Normal polymaker asa shows no clogs and perfect prints with some settings tweaks. Polymaker ASA prints that quad copter frame fairly well too.
Does anyone have anything working where they can share any settings that actually work with this plastic? I see what looks like temperature discolorations from too much temperature on the stock profile and am starting to raise an eyebrow on bad batch. Mine is more yellow tinted than what was shown in the video. 5 layers in my bed is covered in small shards of plastic that flake off. Did Bambu test this profile? Ive played with volumetric speed and all fractional variants slowing it down but it just cooks the plastic more and makes it prickly with yet more shards on the plate accumulating.
Off to try larger nozzles and shortening retractions once I figure out where exactly the clog in the ams → ptfe tubing is.
I received my ASA Aero totday.
The AMS did not recognise the ASA Aero, but after updating to the latest Bambu Studio BETA it does seem to work, But the print I started was verry messy so I had to stop the print.
Did you have any luck so far?
I’ve not had any clogs so far, but the flakes are very recognisable (Using bambu’s profile from their Bambu Studio Beta) … What model are you printing? I’ve got the feeling with me it might be the 3D model I’m trying to print is not helping either. (3Dlabprint Piper Cub: Piper J-3 Cub – 3DLabPrint )
When I try to print a simple testcube it seems to work relatively well…
Im using AMS for the desiccant drying and tried a few different models. Think my clogs deal with how it wants to unload the filament at the end of the prints. I am clearing a partially melted piece of filament out of the hot end most times. OR a 2mm long piece that gets jammed.
I played with heat bed settings and produced a discolored plastic. Looked burnt on a 10 degree increase in bed temps. Trying for quad copter parts which are probably more complex to print:
for an example. I have propeller guards that I have not uploaded that I can print fine out of every other plastic. Until a new profile and someone with printed examples show up here I will assume that the video was doctored and this plastic is just not printable. Not wasting any more time or money on what was advertised as a working solution.
To anyone reading this you cannot place parts within an inch of the edge of the build plate without issues due to the heater not extending to the edge. ASA-Aero exposes this design issue. Unless they admit to a defective run I don’t think what I received is capable of printing as advertised.
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I am struggling to get this filament to work as well. Using the recommended settings I find that 270° is the ideal temp for max foaming. The preset puts the line width at 0.48 for a 0.4 nozzle. That gives me a wall of 0.54 at 270°.
I am going to dial back the line width to 0.42 and adjust the flow to achieve a wall of no greater than 0.45. I’ve read to adjust the max volumetric flow as well but only 1 setting at a time.
I’ve been trying out as well, but now getting quite nice results!
Some tips:
- Try avoiding retractions and travel moves.
- Best is to print single wall items (If possible spiralize outer contour / vasemode)
- Prints parts one by one (or use sequential 3D printing, avoid travel moves…)
- Print slow
- Print in a ventilated room (it smells)
I use the bambulabs preset but reduced max speed even more to sub 100mm/s, and depending on the model you’d have to play quite a lot with the settings (flowrate, wall thickness…) to get it to work well but now parts look stunning. (Barely any visible layer lines, material sands very well, any imperfections can be cut/sanded etc.)
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Any chance you can give screenshots of your setting on the filament and on the slicer?
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It really depends on the part I have to say. If you try printing a standard cube (single wall) with the standard Bambu Studio preset it works fine. Tweak and try from there is the best I can say. The model I’ve been printing doesn’t seem to work so well in Bambu studio and seems to work best using prusa slicer or simplify 3D. But tweaking some settings (reducing line width, but increasing flow for instance). A lot is possible.
Avoiding travel can be done best by checking the preview of the sliced part. and see if there are many travel lines and retractions.
I too am having major jamming issues with this filament. I am following the settings that they indicated, and I get what seems to be a heat creep related jam. Once dislodged, I can print with any other filament, but this one. I am seeing people reducing their retraction to zero. I will try that, but I cannot even get far enough to really do any calibration with the material before I have issues.
I have been trying to improve my Z Seams and found the following to be helpful
- Seam painting - don’t let the slicer chose it, force a straight vertical line where you want it.
- Wipe distance - set it to zero (0). This is in the filament settings under “Settings Override”
- Disable everything in “Settings Override” but the wipe distance and Z_Hop Type (normal)
This really improved my Z-seams and cut down greatly on my blobs on the inside of the part along the seam.
Hello,
I’m taking advantage of this post to ask if there is a ready-made profile for making RC aircraft parts. 0.2mm high? I can’t find any info on this.
Also on the site it talks about not using the textured plate… I only have the basic one supplied with the printer (textured and smooth on the other side). I can’t use the textured at all? Is the smooth side with glue enough? Do I need another plate?
Thank you!
Well, I did a test print on a small part.
It’s not too bad, but there are 2 faults.
The part came unstuck on the thinnest part (wingtips) so I’ll have to see what I can do about that.
There are some “pieces” that stick out a bit, like it’s swollen too much, but apart from that everything else is fine.
On measurements I’m within 0.01mm. The holes are tricky because it’s quite soft, but it looks OK too.
I took the standard 0.2mm profile (bambu lab) and then :
Nozzle height 0.28mm
X-Y hole compensation: 0.25mm
1 wall, 4 layers (bottom and top) filled to 5% with cubic
speed, I set everything at 50mm/s (except when it was already slower)
I’ll see if I can’t find a better profile.
