ASA filament and the P1S/AMS printer

Some of you guys already know this, however, I found it interesting to actually test and wanted to share my findings with those of you that didn’t know and by test not guesswork.

I’ll start by saying I’m a retired Engineer…(EE). I’ve worked in the industry for over 40 years, globally. I did prototyping, form-fit-function design and testing requiring the use of our 3D printer for the parts. I was a manager in an environmental lab after that, testing prototype customer equipment daily. So much for background. I bought a P1S a couple years ago after I retired and here are some of my findings using ASA “actual real life testing”, No guess work here, no… I think, no… he said, she said… Actual calibrated real life testing. Your “actual” results may vary a bit.
I’ve read a few articles recently online (not here) and surprising enough reviews about the Bambu P1S not able to properly print ABS and ASA due to an unheated internal chamber and the max bed temperature of 100C. Well mine reaches 120C bed temp. As I said not here but quite a few articles on the WEB. I’m here to tell you, they are wrong! I use most all filaments however this article is specific and about ASA and the Bambu P1S printer. See the three test photos…

I’ll start out describing my printer layout. Fully enclosed P1S w/ AMS, thermal sensors in the top of the AMS (CH1), top center of the P1S 4” (101.6mm) (CH2) above the print bed THIS IS THE CHANNEL OF INTEREST, and one at the base of the printer (CH3) about 1” (25.4mm) off the base. I have a 2” (50.8mm) vent hose about 4FT (1.2M) long with a variable powered blower running out the window and a window Air Conditioner right next to the printer.

Test 1 was as follows:

Cheapest ASA I could find on Amazon USA…1 Kg $15.99 US dollars on sale iSANMATE brand

All standard parameters selected by Bambu printer for .4 Diameter Standard flow ASA (I get better results using Bambu ASA setting) for all ASA I use no matter what brand. External Vent fan OFF (for test) HEPA/Carbon filter used.

Test 2 was as follows:

Cheapest ASA I could find on Amazon USA…1 Kg $15.99 US dollars on sale iSANMATE brand

All standard parameters selected by Bambu printer for .4 Diameter Standard flow ASA (I get better results using Bambu ASA setting) for all ASA I use no matter what brand. I removed HEPA/Carbon filter and used External Vent fan ON minimum speed just enough to cause positive pressure in chamber to vent (about 1/10th of turn) on speed control (very slow). I found the built in exhaust fan inadequate for venting when running a 2” vent pipe, understandable as it was not designed to run additional vent pipe.

As you can see from both test results, there is not much difference, no heater required even with inline fan to meet the recommended 50C chamber temperature. ISANMATE specs high-end met using Bambu ASA settings, see photo of spool

I have tested all cheap brands of ASA and they all work the same. For me the detail is much better than ABS and doesn’t smell near as bad.

Bambu has done a great job with this printer. It seems to me the online reviews are clearly empirical or hearsay guess work testing by the reviewers and clearly incorrect. Thanks Bambu I really enjoy this printer. So guys buy a spool of ASA and give it a try… OH and by the way, NO adhesion problems with the standard Bambu PEI plate, both smooth and textured, once cooled comes off very easy.

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I don’t think P1S bed would reach 120°C. Unless you use deregulator mod, such mod is just a simple resistor in series with the NTC thermistor under the heated bed.

For many of them, it’s true.

For your case, chamber temp reach 60°C which is the bare minimum to print ASA / ABS without warping. For some, chamber temp never gets to 55°C after hours of printing, like the X1C at my previous work. Room temp was around 12-16°C in winter and 24-26°C during summer. And yes, small print was just fine but big print warped badly and corners lifted.

Room temperature would be a big factor that affect the chamber temperature, but simply just ignored by most of us. It is also true that heat loss via side panel and glass door is at slower rate than the heat bed can generate. Chamber temp will rise up eventually, but i’d be longer. And if the print reaches a certain height but chamber temp at that layer (say, layer 12th or 20th) is significant lower than first layer (45°C vs 100°C), the shrink force at that layer will be high enough to lift up the corners.

Obviously, chamber temp should be as close as crystalized temp of the plastic you print, for the best results of layer adhesion, bed adhesion, less warping, etc. But realistically, 80-90°C chamber temp is way too much for the electronics or the plastic of this printer.

But since people don’t care much about layer adhesion, as long as it keeps its shape after and not crumple in their hands, they call it success. They figured they can get away with 60°C chamber temp, and so it be.

I bet they never anneal ABS / ASA in the oven after print, just to see how it’d deform after annealing.

PS: I have my P1S sit inside an insulated enclosure. I can print ABS without preheat and I print ABS mostly. I buy only cheap ABS spools from ebay

Well as I said other input might vary…However here is DIRECT FROM POLYMAKER recommendations Several other manufacturers say very close to the same thing.
QUOTE: Printing with ASA: Precision and Preparation
ASA demands careful calibration to balance adhesion, warping, and layer bonding. Here’s how to optimize your prints:
Key Settings

  • Nozzle Temperature: 240–280°C (start at 250°C and adjust based on filament brand).
  • Bed Temperature: 90–110°C (heated bed essential for adhesion).
  • Print Speed: 35–70 mm/s (slower speeds improve layer bonding).
  • Ambient Temperature: Maintain a draft-free, warm environment or use an enclosed printer (60°C chamber ideal).
    NOTE: 60C IDEAL not minimum requirements!

Thanks for the input

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Recommended bed temp for ASA is 80-100, again a quote from polymaker, note the spool picture too 80-100. Not a problem reaching 120 since it’s not needed for ASA anyway.
This article is about ASA printing. Thanks for the Info

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