Printing for the first time with Bambu ASA filament and wanting to to know what are good settings for this filament. Should I use Bambu stock settings, do I need to change any settings. What speed do i use, do i have to slow it down etc…
Any help would be appreciated.
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Welcome to the forum.
I would start with the stock settings and see how the print turns out. I don’t change anything other than adding a brim if the part has a small footprint and changing the infill to gyroid.
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Thanks for the welcome.
I will try but the speed is ok. I read that ASA speed needs to slow down?
I’ve never had to add just any speeds lower for ASA.
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Stock settings are fine, but i would bump the bed temp to 100c.
Looks like I’m too new to start my own thread, so apologies for resurrecting this one, but this is very much on the topic of ASA settings.
I recently bought a P1S primarily to be able to print ASA. I was amazed how cheap it is for a material purporting excellent UV resistance and decent mechanical properties.
Out of the box, my results were “meh,” with plenty of warping issues and inconsistent results. But with a few changes, I’ve gotten FAR better results, so I want to list
Than’s not-at-all-secret tips for ASA success
MODS
- Get a Bento Box filter. The fumes are no joke. This filter helps a lot.
- Plug the hole in the top. This isn’t as important as some others on this list, but allowing both fumes and heat to escape is not good.
- Buy and use the smooth plate and use a glue (I have used Elmer’s Washable School Glue [purple] successfully). I had trouble getting ASA to stick to the textured plate.
MATERIAL SETTINGS
- Set bed temp to 100C. Maybe somebody can comment on why the default is 90, given that google searching turned up mostly recommendations for 110C, with a note of “100 may be good enough if that’s as high as your printer goes.”
- Set the maximum volumetric speed to 9 mm^3/sec. For the relatively small parts I typically print, this barely even changes to print time, but it seems to help a lot with layer adhesion and preventing warping. At the least, start at 9 and get the print right, and then see if you can increase the speed for a given part.
I personally didn’t find brims relevant. With the default setup, a brim wasn’t enough to hold my part down. And with the above setup, I have not (yet) found a brim to be necessary.
Obviously ymmv, but those changes were night-and-day for me, and now I can reliably print all sorts of stuff in ASA with nice look, limited nasty fumes, and no warping.
Happy ASAing!
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Forgot one more:
- Let it completely cool before taking it off the plate. So far, it seems like 45 minutes or a plate temp of 35C is “safe” to take it off without risking warping.
With my first time using ASA ever (Elegoo black) I too found that 90C bed almost guaranteed that prints would lift off the plate. I had much better and repeatable success at 100C.
Perhaps Bambu set it at 90C instead of 100C because thats the upper limit of the heatbed capability and constant use at the high end leads to faster heat performance degradation(?) I dono.
How can we change the default generic ASA preset to 100C without having to remember every time?
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I’m not aware of a way to change the official Bambu ASA filament parameters, BUT you can make your own filament presets!
Click the edit button on the far right of the filament name. Then alter the bed temps, volumetric flow rate (after clicking ADVANCED), and whatever else. Then click the floppy disk icon that has tooltip “Save current filament.” Then give it a new name, make sure it’s a “user preset” rather than being associated with the project, and voila. If you’re snarky and condescending like I am, you can name it “ASA that actually freakin’ works.” (I didn’t literally do that…)
I guess you still have to remember to pick your own preset when selecting the filament in the future, but at least all the changes are stored in one place and easy to choose.
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There’s some great info in this thread.
I would add that I use Flashforge ASA for most of my prints. I hardly notice any odor compared to some of the other brands.
I get best adhesion results with Aqua Net Extra Super Hold Unscented hairspray on a clean Smooth PEI plate. It’s easy to apply and less messy than glue. I also wait until the chamber reaches 40c before starting a print to avoid warping.
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How do you measure chamber temperature
There are a few things you can purchase to measure the internal temp.
and my personal favorite
X1 series has a chamber temp sensor built in.
When preheating the chamber with the bed (ie nozzle off), I’ve found that the reported nozzle temperature follows the chamber temperature pretty closely.