ASA Stuck To Build Plate

So I recently did an ASA print on the textured PEI plate. Print went great no issues with adhesion or removal. However, the brim and the little calibration line that the PS1 does at the start of the print will NOT come off the plate. I’ve put the plate in the freezer, I’ve scraped (gently) with the metal scrapper blade, I’ve tried all the tricks I know. While the metal blade did remove a lot of the material there’s still a significant amount left.

So, how can I get this stuff off? Can I use acetone or will that mess up the PEI? What are my options?

Let it weak in hot water for a while,works perfect…

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Use Glue Like glue Stick or 3DLAC. With it comes of easy after cooling.

You are correct that Acetone will ruin your PEI plate. :warning:

What you can try is putting the plate in an oven and get the ASA softened. But I wouldn’t do that with an oven I want to make food in afterwards…

Put plate back and set temp to 110.
Wait 15 minutes and very carefully - to not get burned - use scraper again

You have many great answers here, so I figured I would add one more.

Throw it in the freezer over night and then remove the ASA from the plate.

There is one trick I tried when I had this happen with PC on a specular PEO plate that worked well for me. What you might try, and there is risk in this, so try it on a small section first. You want to take glue and cover an area around the material you want to remove. Then, take a cotton swab with whatever you are using for the glue solvent. If you’re using white paste glue (recommended), then hot soapy water will allow you to remove select portions of the glue on the stuck filament by cleaning just the stuck material while leaving the glue intact on the PEI plate.

Then, using a cube or circle primitive, place a shape around the offending material so that it is 5mm to either side of the object you want to remove. How this works is that right now, you have too small an area to gain a grasp on. By placing a 10x200x2mm strip, let’s say on the purge bead, you will get a greater grip on the material you are trying to remove while the glued areas will separate.

Here are the steps.

Right click and add a cube primitive.

Use the scale tool to create the dimensions needed to cover the offending material.

And of course, I don’t want to forget. FREEZE the plate before you attempt to remove the object. 10 minutes should be more than enough for a 2mm strip, that’s what I used to remove PC and also PETG. The changes in material expansion will aid in the material wanting to separate. The glue in particular becomes very brittle and allows for snapping off.

While this may seem counterintuitive, it actually works and this same technique is used to remove trace amounts of solder n a PCB. Adding more solder makes removal of ALL the solder easier than trying to remove traces. In like manner, the glue stick acts as a release liner between the glue and the PEI but the ASA on ASA acts as a perfect removal media.

In the future, if you try to print something like that on PEI, use a generous amount of glue paste, not for the adhesion but for it’s release properties. While the glue makes for a good first layer stiction, it is a much weaker bond after the print is done.

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Thanks all, I’m going to try heating it up on the printer first, if that doesn’t work we’ll try the oven, after that the others…fingers crossed!

What worked best for you?