Its always worked really well for me! I would say its definitely worth a shot! I saw they just got bambulab parts in stock as well so you might be able to pick some stuff up if you need it to help get to the free shipping price!
you say bambu has the ASA275?
You want to get the Spectrum ASA275, then I just used the bambu preset for ASA in the slicer and raised the temperatures by around 5 degrees or so. Is there any rules against sharing links in here? If there is not I can send you the link for it.
ok i found the Spectrum ASA 275, Thanks!
@user_3830817761 did you sort out ASA or shall i send you all my settings ?
no i havn’t sorted it out. Yes pleas on your setting. are you using a X1C?
No problem, let me know how it works for you!
did you send your settings?
yes i use X1C, I added print profile on this model for ASA, as we used it to show PETG profile test model
You can down load and compare and save it each individual settings i guess let me know if the fillament settings does not get transferred but it should
ONE NOTE
i use Manual PA(K) and my filament is set via orca slicer in the advanced filament settings , which works for both , but makerworld does not allow file from orca slicer and also drops the extra command i think
flow and PA(K) can varies , and auto flow does not work reliably on the Bambu
M900 K0.047 L1000 M10; BS transfer test eSUN ASA PA(K)
with print profile printed quite a few ASA models which are not prominent to warping and no need for extra strength
I use slower version as soon as more prominent to warping or need part strenght
the main difference is that speeds are dropped to around 70mm/S
and acceleration from 7000 to 4000 and from 3500 to 2000, and usually reduce the FAN to 30%-20% or turning it off if the part allows it , most cases it does at slow speed
thanks, i will study this and see if i can figure out how to do this. I have the fan shut off completly and tried the slower speeds and it didnt help so I’ll try again.
I bought a chamber heater and will try that too.,
Thanks for you help.
i got another X1C and it came with a different build plate it is textured on both sides.
I tried 2 of my problem prints using the new printer and heated the chamber to 47C first and both prints turned out good.
I don’t care for the textured plate, it is ok for some things.
another thing about the textured plate it seems thicker than the other plate and seems to stick to the magnet better. I didn’t have to put clamps on the bed for the 2 problem prints. so how can i get a thicker plate without the texture?
i have not tried yet it but a lot of people on the other threads are pointing to this
Personally now i use the engineering hot plate is excellent results . But the bellow plate should help with flatness and a bit more even temperature
I’d just like to say this ultimately solved my problem with warped bed. Thanks for the links. I like my printer again.