Then you’ve made an important leap. The next part should be easier. If your model isn’t sticking to your build plate then the first thing you want to do is to take it and wash the plate with dishwashing detergent under very hot water. That will degrease and dissolve any organic material on the plate. As a good measure, after it’s dry you could try cleaning it with 99% IPA and a paper towel but that is kind of overkill, the drug store kind of IPA is usually 75% so you’ll want to get the 99% online because it just works better.
Second thing you will want to do is use a very thin layer of glue on the bed at first. You can always add more layers if you want later. No need for the expensive liquid stuff, I have both and it’s a rare occasion when the purpose-made liquid glue outperforms the white kindergarten glue sticks. Don’t be fooled by the stuff that comes in the same chapstick-like package from Bambu or others, its the exact same thing as the $2-$3 Elmer’s Glue stick except you pay 60% more for the label. In fact, for what Bambu charges for a single item of their glue, you get a package of 3 Elmer’s on Amazon
One tip, after you spread the glue take a very wet paper towel and spread the glue around on the plate, it’s water soluble and the wet paper towel trick will evenly smooth out the glue.
Using a PEI plate won’t likely solve this, in fact the engineering plate you already have along with glue will provide far greater adhesion.
I have started another one. I pre-heated the bed at 110 for hour or more, I have turned up the heat in the room this printer is in. my chamber temp is at 49 right now.
ok, it works good now. I believe the chamber temp helped a lot. it stayed around 45+. and I kept the bed at 110. I still had a small amount of warping. the top surface was good. the taped is an absolute on these large flat parts. at the end of the print the bed was still raised but the tape was holding it down. I had it taped on the corners but it was bowed up in middle between the tape.
Thanks for all of your suggestions!
i thought i had the problem fixed but still the top surface looks bad.
i have put clamps on the bed, my chamber temp is about 40C
I am really lost. Here are a couple of pics showing the file layout as you can see the top that is bad is a flat smooth top.
Hello.
I have also encountered the same problem.
Trying to find information.
As far as I understand, the metal sheet of the table top is too thin, and a table top plate is glued between them, which is 0.42 mm thick. The thinner the metal, the worse it sticks to the magnet.
A metal plate a few hundredths thicker is required.
I will try to secure the table top plate with something so that it does not pull up.
do you know of a thicker plate available?
I am still have a terrible time with this. I ordered some liquid glue from Bambu.
should i have a new plate cut out and then stick on one of these replacement covers?
@user_3830817761 this has been a big issue for all of us , suggest you to sort out ASA as PETG a bit better but not good for some parts
glue , magnets and etc will not solve the Warping which causes lifting or detaching
Check if Your Bed is flat i found that my one was 0.5-0.6mm curved also check when heated with flat metal ruler
ASA out of the box is not dry , make sure is well dried, sitting outside only after a day is enough to have problems. We found that our eSUN drier does not dry it unless i keep it on for 2 days and even then some moister still in, so no using the oven or the X1C drying cycle
the other suggestions BED 110C, no AUX and no Chamber fan, part fan reduced to min , reduce print speed 70mm/S is a good but that is the last thing never go above 150mm/S
Chamber Temp 50C+ recommended 60C/65C( almost not achievable without extra heating) soak , very slowly cooldown by leaving the bed on after the print
insulate the machine outside helps
PA(K) and Flow must be very well calibrated and the auto flow is not good enough
Reduce accelerations from 10000 all the way down to 7000 even i have a profile with 3000, and mixed depending on the role
The top surface unless the warping is bad, usually points to wet filament , PA(K) or flow calibration issue
see some of the modification other people done
The 3 main design and QC problems of the X1C for ASA/ABS
very often curved bed - with V3 it is reduced but still there( i replaced my V2 with V3 under warranty)
Uneven heating on the plate especially edges - temp soaking, object rotation different infills helps , but better to have a cast plate on top
Chamber it self has temperature variation with out extra heating especially in some areas - for my prints a good cover around solves it most of the time
For our ASA/ABS printing we sorted it out 90% with out special plate and without forced heating after replacing the bed and with blanket very often only for big models, but some models are still a challenge and once successful once not
For one model we added hex holes all around to reduce the tension and that sorted it , but the model allowed it
Here is the last one i am thinking to try before adding forced heating found it in the other thread :
well an update to what I tried.
i had my chamber at 50C, my bed was 110C
I had a clean stock build plate with Elmers stick glue. I have clamps on the build plate to hold it down
I used a .20mm Strength setting and as you can see it looks bad.
It doesn’t look like the face is laying flat on the build plate. First I would try “Auto Orient” (3rd icon from the left at the top) and see if Bambu Studio will fix it. If this doesn’t work, click the object, press “F” and select the bottom face of the model (it will have a white oval on the face) and this will lay that face flat to the bed.
Thanks!
I did the auto orient.
after i did that the preview of the print looks a lot better. I am printing the green color down or against the plate
before the auto orient the lines looked not uniform, look at the 2 pics
I do use dawn soap and hot water,
a couple things i forget to mention is I dried my new roll of Grey bambu asa and Green polymaker asa
I do use the clamps that just snap on. the asa printed ones seem to work better. I printed some PC ones and they stretched when heated. and are loose.
I really like using ASA from 3D Printing USA, if you can afford it the ASA 275 from spectrum is dead simple to print, but the standard line is a good bit cheaper and also works really well. So well in fact that I can print it on my open air prusa mini and voron 0.2 with relatively little issues. But as soon as I switch to using the enclosure on my X1C it goes down as smooth as butter.
