Ok, I have the X1C and am experiencing warping with ASA, so I purchased the X1E so I could get the heated chamber and just purchased the Darkmoon ICE plate and still have the problem. any ideas other than using a brim? I know a brim would solve the problem, but in production, I don’t want to have to clean up the edges.
Some of my basic parameters:
Bed 100c
Chamber 55c
Nozzle 270c
No glue
25% infill
Bottom and top layer, 5
OK. So you don’t want to use glue or brims. I’m afraid you’re running out of tools in the tool bag.
The only thing left is to modify the model. You could try making the model less dense by reducing the infill percentage. This will create less shrinkage pull on the outer walls. You may also want to change the wall order from the default of inner/outer to outer/inner.
However, the right answer is glue and/or brim which you say you don’t want to use.
You may want to reconsider glue and brims (with gap to facilitate removal) as adressing the root cause (besides your already warm chamber) can have a significant print time impact.
You can even out cooling by reducing the layer height. Since it is volume related and hence cubic, it is quite powerful. It may affect layer adhesion though (not sure about ASA).
Can you increase the chamber temp? Buying X1E just to get to 55C for chamber is kinda waste.
My setup can get to 60C for chamber temperature without need of chamber heater. It is P1S inside insulated enclosure
First off, thanks for all the quick replies!!!
I would have thought that spending the extra $1k would solve the problem, Evidentially, I was wrong 
even with the short part.
With the X1E, I can go to 60c in the chamber, and that will be my next move. I may add the Bambu Lab glue stick, haven’t tried that one yet.
I have used glue with the Bambu PEI textured plates and it leaves a residue that won’t come off, (Magigoo & Nano Polymer). To get the residue off, I have washed with soap/water and even tried WD-40 to no avail.
Going beyond this particular part, I have another part that is even taller and figured if I can’t do a short part, how in the heck am I going to get a 4" tall part to stick in ASA?
Unfortunately, my parts will spend most of their time outside in the elements and as good as PETG is in that respect, ASA will handle that as well as impact strength even better, which is what is needed.
I get that using brims and glue is a good option if I am printing a few parts, but when I need to print 50 or 100, that extra post processing time adds up.
Again, I appreciate all the quick responses, and if I come up with a good solution, I will sure post it.
Have you tried using the Bambu Smooth plate? I’ve found it has the best adhesion for ASA/ABS prints.
How are are you cleaning your plate?
I’m assuming you’re preheating the chamber before you start the print for a good 20 minutes?
You might also consider trying one of the fiber filled ASA’s as they are less prone to warping.
Hi Jon, thanks for the reply!
No, I haven’t tried the smooth plate, but can give it a shot.
As far as pre-heat, no, I just tell the slicer to set the chamber at 55c. Is 20 minutes an option?
I like the textured finish but haven’t tried the finish of the smooth plate.
Thanks,
Paul
I don’t have a X1E so I’m not sure how quick it heats up and heat soaks the chamber. There is no “wait this many minutes at this temperature” in Bambu Studio. It’s a set it and wait kind of thing.
With the X1C and P1S this is how I heat soak/preheat the chamber before I start a large ASA/ABS print.
This will get you a chamber temp or 45-50ish in about 10-15 minutes.
Keep the build plate as clean as possible. Oils from your hands cause adhesion issues so be very careful when you handle the plate and remove parts from it. Wash the plate with hot water and dish soap.
So, first suggestion of preheating and letting it stabilize is a good one. I did a thread asking for a settable delay in BS to allow temps to stabilize.
As for glue. There’s messy glues, like what you get from Bambu, Elmer’s glue sticks, etc. and then there’s glues that leave an extremely thin coating, are good for multiple uses, and will easily wash off.
Prevailent is one
Magigoo is another
Hyperlok is specifically for high bed temperature filaments
You have to watch the specs as different glues have different compatibilities with some heatbed materials. Just read the specs first.
Try Vision Miner Nano. It will hold anything. It can leave a residue on the object, but I found a solution.
-don’t use their brush to apply
-get some cheap disposable solid foam paint brushes
-brush the plate, when cool, uniformly in x and y directions for a very even application.
This way I don’t get residue.
Also, try a bed temp of 105, and make sure your fan is off for the first five layers.
I print a ton of ASA.
ASA-cf/gf solves this problem, but costs more.
Great advice! I will do some testing.
Thanks all for the helpful responses!
