So I have been getting really inconsistent results printing ASA. Sometimes I get a little flex, sometimes a lot of deflection, sometimes full on delamination.
I am using Bambu ASA with stock profile.
Your tip, setting and prefers print surface would be appreciated.
The best advice I have is an enclosed printer is absolutely required. Iād imagine the the Bambu Lab profile for their filament should be pretty dialed in, but you might want to try to increase the plate temperatures.
I havenāt tried the BL ASA yet, but Iāve had good success with eSUN ASA. These are my custom settings for it based on the āGeneric ASAā profile which might be helpful?
Nozzle:
High Temp Plate:
Iāve been using Polymaker ASA and like it a lot. But it does warp. Print hot on a hot build plate and keep the chamber nice and warm. Search for āASA warpingā in the forumā¦
Thanks, I read a several other threads but it seemed like some of the advice was before the profile changes. So I though there might be some benefit to a general tips and trick thread rather than addressing someoneās particular issue.
Bambu ASA is a relatively recent addition. Lots of folks who print ASA prob have their other favorite brands, most likely. I havenāt tried it as I like PolyLite and for alternatives Iām looking into ones that are specifically engineered to warp less, e.g. using GF.
I donāt think there is such a thing as ādialing in ASAā. Warping is always an issue and you have to work around with brims or similar, keep everything hot, etc. Sometimes I need best possible Z layer adhesion (which is darn good with ASA) and push temperature, lower fan, etc. but I better have no overhangs. Or I do have overhangs and bridges and need a clean print, so increase fan speed and there goes Z layer adhesion. I feel like Iām beyond the āI donāt know what I donāt knowā stage but still far from mastering this stuffā¦ (Which I like a lot otherwise.)
Like @3dsurfr, I primarily print Polymaker Polylite ASA. Most of my parts are small but I do print a couple half bed parts without issues. Iāve found thinner longer parts will warp more and Iāll use mouse ears to keep the corners secure. Some of my parts are .20in x 1in x 5in and have to make sure I only print 4 - 6 max at a time.
I also print a āPrimeā cube before printing a production part. Just a small 1in x 1in cube to get everything flowing and chamber warm.
I have a spool of BL ASA but the Red color was so off that I couldnāt use it for production parts. I havenāt printed anything from it yet. My Polymaker settings are:
How big and thick do you make the mouse ears?
This is so the top layer doesnāt cool too much?
One layer thick.
5.2mm radius
Hereās a screen shot from a SW model. This was before OS and BS had Mouse Ear support. I modeled the Mouse Ear and Shrew (spelling?) in SolidWorks.
Hereās a video that helped. I think thereās one from Slant3D also.
Iāll connect the mouse ears directly to the part if itās large and Iām not concerned about seeing the circular pattern on my bottom surface.
I see, does the single line attachment of the disc to the part work well enough? Iāve done them like this but donāt have much experience:
They really do.
The size of the part and how strong the warping can be will determine the full mouse ears or shrews. You could also adjust the thickness of the shrew. My uses and tests have worked but Iāve only done a few. They worked and I was mid production of my parts so no time to play and test different iterations.
I hate brims and wasting time cleaning parts. Using mouse ears with shews are virtual unnoticeable. When you remove them and require no clean up afterwards.
My settings are very similar. The differences are that I print at 100C build plate and more fan speed (min 25% - max 90%) to get decent overhangs. To get best Z-layer adhesion I reduce fan speed to min 10% - max 40%. I have volumetric speed at 20mm^3/s.
Iāll try your settings.
I jacked up my profiles trying to manage too many build plates and parts with different settings. And too many BS and OS windows open. Obviously all done at 2am so I could have parts in the morning.
Iām finally getting them dialed back in.
Buy the X1E
half-joking. Iām selling my X1C for the X1E after having printed over 500h of ASA. I am interested in seeing if this āsuperiorā is warranted 
Forgot to answer this question.
This is so the top layer doesnāt cool too much? I guess. Iāll print plates with 3 or 4 parts and some plates will have 30 parts. When I experience warping and bed adhesive (light mist of AquaNet) doesnāt work I start reducing how many parts I print at a time. This usually solves the problem. I havenāt had time to analyze why yet. Iām finally at a slow stage now that football season is full force so I can start playing, testing and dialing in my filament again. Not that it will help. Once we get it dialed in and we feel comfortable something inevitably changes and we start all over again. 
My P1S is rocking ASA without an issue. I donāt see myself getting another X1C or X1E at this time. Iāve got my sights on larger build volume and IDEX. I donāt think the upgrades justify the $1200 price difference, at least for my needs. I totally see it for Enterprise (Security) and HT prints. I like the active chamber heater and filtration system.
In general, Iāve had to slow it way down like way way down. Max volumetric at Seven. Flow ratio. 99. Speeds go way down. Speed is the killer on this. I have never had an issue with bed adhesion when using Magigooās abs glue. Chamber temp between 55 and 60. Speed settings for a generic .2 standard profile. You will cut those numbers in half and then cut the numbers in half once more all of them. It will no longer be a fast print what would normally take an hour and a half to two hours will now take seven or more, the material I am using is ASA carbon fiber by 3-D X tech
I tried twice different settings, before finding what works with my BambuLab A1 printer.
I used as starting point what @Sideline_Review gave as screenshots and it solved my wrapping but at 75-80% of printing part, suddenly the part stopped to stick on plate and ruined my printing.
After adding glue to plate, everything works well with filament C-Tech.
Here are my seetings for C-Tech filaments (based on generic ASA settings):
Print on a one-layer raft of PLA or PLAF, and you can print cooler, and avoid warping.
https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/comments/1gn8r3p/absasa_printing_on_a1_and_a1_mini/
This is typical of my calibrated ASA presets.
Preheating the chamber with the heatbed is essential. I donāt think an X1C or PiS can get too hot, but I look for at least 45Ā°C.
For my X1C, preheating is much easier to do and impossible to forget using OrcaSlicer and Machine start g-code by @Kehali_Woldemichael. Just put a minimum chamber temperature in the filament preset and the code will first heat the chamber to that temperature and then continue to heat for 15 minutes to ensure thorough warming of the bed and chamber. I use 45Ā°C for ASA and most other āhigh tempā filament presets - the chamber temp is actually a bit higher by the time the print begins.
The first part of the code has another benefit for me, as my shop is cold in the winter. Most filaments do not print well if the chamber is below 28Ā°C. Even with a default filament preset chamber_temperature value of zero, the code will heat the chamber to 30Ā° before beginning to print. With this code in all my printer presets, and minimum chamber temps set in the appropriate filament presets, I donāt have to think about preheating any longer, it is all automatic.
It is regrettable that Studio does not let the user set a minimum value for chamber_temperature. The printer firmware understands the necessary g-code command, but Studio fails to provide control over it.
I was able to print successfully with ASA on my A1 printer (which obviously has no chamber to control the ambient temperature or filter the air).
Firstly, I selected ASA filament. I then went down the āspeedā section and quartered anything to do with actual printing. I also edited the filament itself and set the maximum fan to 50%, although that could probably be even lower - maybe 30%.
In terms of the printer itself, I put it on the floor in the garage, and surrounded it with buckets and boxes to try to keep drafts to a minimum. Iād say the ambient temperature in there was between 19-23C for the full printing time. I kept the doors closed in there, although I did have to go in occasionally for something or other. The filament I used doesnāt smell too badly, but itās not something to be near for too long.
I found white ASA was easier to print that black (white didnāt really need much tinkering with settings at all). I actually wanted to print a new drain grille for my patio (in black), which I did with 100% infill to make it as āwater solidā as possible. It took something like 47 hours to print - and actually failed to extrude properly for the last couple of hours, so the top of it is flat when it should be domed. Iām still using it, and seems to be doing its job - if I get some time, Iāll have a crack at re-printing. The good news is that the layers seemed to bond pretty well. You can see a couple of times where it didnāt print as smoothly as others, but it seems pretty tough. I havenāt tried, but I suspect some acetone would work wonders on it.
If I do this again, I may put a small heater in the garage to ensure the ambient is about right for the full duration of the print (I was lucky it was generally hot weather when I did this the first time - maybe not so much next time!?)
Iām not sure why it failed to extrude - I think it may have been an excessive twist in the filament, it seemed pretty free to move, but something stopped it coming out of the nozzle! When I switched filaments, it seemed okay, so it doesnāt seem the nozzle was blocked.
