So I have been getting really inconsistent results printing ASA. Sometimes I get a little flex, sometimes a lot of deflection, sometimes full on delamination.
I am using Bambu ASA with stock profile.
Your tip, setting and prefers print surface would be appreciated.
The best advice I have is an enclosed printer is absolutely required. I’d imagine the the Bambu Lab profile for their filament should be pretty dialed in, but you might want to try to increase the plate temperatures.
I haven’t tried the BL ASA yet, but I’ve had good success with eSUN ASA. These are my custom settings for it based on the “Generic ASA” profile which might be helpful?
Nozzle:
High Temp Plate:
I’ve been using Polymaker ASA and like it a lot. But it does warp. Print hot on a hot build plate and keep the chamber nice and warm. Search for “ASA warping” in the forum…
Thanks, I read a several other threads but it seemed like some of the advice was before the profile changes. So I though there might be some benefit to a general tips and trick thread rather than addressing someone’s particular issue.
Bambu ASA is a relatively recent addition. Lots of folks who print ASA prob have their other favorite brands, most likely. I haven’t tried it as I like PolyLite and for alternatives I’m looking into ones that are specifically engineered to warp less, e.g. using GF.
I don’t think there is such a thing as “dialing in ASA”. Warping is always an issue and you have to work around with brims or similar, keep everything hot, etc. Sometimes I need best possible Z layer adhesion (which is darn good with ASA) and push temperature, lower fan, etc. but I better have no overhangs. Or I do have overhangs and bridges and need a clean print, so increase fan speed and there goes Z layer adhesion. I feel like I’m beyond the “I don’t know what I don’t know” stage but still far from mastering this stuff… (Which I like a lot otherwise.)
Like @3dsurfr, I primarily print Polymaker Polylite ASA. Most of my parts are small but I do print a couple half bed parts without issues. I’ve found thinner longer parts will warp more and I’ll use mouse ears to keep the corners secure. Some of my parts are .20in x 1in x 5in and have to make sure I only print 4 - 6 max at a time.
I also print a “Prime” cube before printing a production part. Just a small 1in x 1in cube to get everything flowing and chamber warm.
I have a spool of BL ASA but the Red color was so off that I couldn’t use it for production parts. I haven’t printed anything from it yet. My Polymaker settings are:
How big and thick do you make the mouse ears?
This is so the top layer doesn’t cool too much?
One layer thick.
5.2mm radius
Here’s a screen shot from a SW model. This was before OS and BS had Mouse Ear support. I modeled the Mouse Ear and Shrew (spelling?) in SolidWorks.
Here’s a video that helped. I think there’s one from Slant3D also.
I’ll connect the mouse ears directly to the part if it’s large and I’m not concerned about seeing the circular pattern on my bottom surface.
I see, does the single line attachment of the disc to the part work well enough? I’ve done them like this but don’t have much experience:
They really do.
The size of the part and how strong the warping can be will determine the full mouse ears or shrews. You could also adjust the thickness of the shrew. My uses and tests have worked but I’ve only done a few. They worked and I was mid production of my parts so no time to play and test different iterations.
I hate brims and wasting time cleaning parts. Using mouse ears with shews are virtual unnoticeable. When you remove them and require no clean up afterwards.
My settings are very similar. The differences are that I print at 100C build plate and more fan speed (min 25% - max 90%) to get decent overhangs. To get best Z-layer adhesion I reduce fan speed to min 10% - max 40%. I have volumetric speed at 20mm^3/s.
I’ll try your settings.
I jacked up my profiles trying to manage too many build plates and parts with different settings. And too many BS and OS windows open. Obviously all done at 2am so I could have parts in the morning.
I’m finally getting them dialed back in.
Buy the X1E
half-joking. I’m selling my X1C for the X1E after having printed over 500h of ASA. I am interested in seeing if this “superior” is warranted 
Forgot to answer this question.
This is so the top layer doesn’t cool too much? I guess. I’ll print plates with 3 or 4 parts and some plates will have 30 parts. When I experience warping and bed adhesive (light mist of AquaNet) doesn’t work I start reducing how many parts I print at a time. This usually solves the problem. I haven’t had time to analyze why yet. I’m finally at a slow stage now that football season is full force so I can start playing, testing and dialing in my filament again. Not that it will help. Once we get it dialed in and we feel comfortable something inevitably changes and we start all over again. 
My P1S is rocking ASA without an issue. I don’t see myself getting another X1C or X1E at this time. I’ve got my sights on larger build volume and IDEX. I don’t think the upgrades justify the $1200 price difference, at least for my needs. I totally see it for Enterprise (Security) and HT prints. I like the active chamber heater and filtration system.
In general, I’ve had to slow it way down like way way down. Max volumetric at Seven. Flow ratio. 99. Speeds go way down. Speed is the killer on this. I have never had an issue with bed adhesion when using Magigoo’s abs glue. Chamber temp between 55 and 60. Speed settings for a generic .2 standard profile. You will cut those numbers in half and then cut the numbers in half once more all of them. It will no longer be a fast print what would normally take an hour and a half to two hours will now take seven or more, the material I am using is ASA carbon fiber by 3-D X tech
