Slicer: Orca
Filament: Polylite ASA
Speed: Polylite ASA profile in Orca slicer with bed temps set to 95C, nozzle temp at 260C
Retraction: 0.8mm
Before anyone says it, I’ve washed the plate several times and then wiped it with 91% IPA after washing.
I can’t use a glue stick because the plate I’m using has a carbon fiber pattern and using the glue stick would prevent the pattern from showing on the model when it’s done.
I’ve slowed down the first layer to 20mm/s and the first infill layer to 30mm/s. I’ve added a 10mm brim to the object. I’ve reduced cooling to 30% part fan. I’ve set the bed to 90C and let it sit for 20 minutes before starting the print. It will not stick anymore. It looks like the filament is just globbing on the end of the nozzle now.
I’m not sure where people get the idea that IPA needs to be used after washing the plate. It’s just not the case.
Wash the plate with Dawn, giving it a really good scrub. If this doesn’t do it, a light scuff with very fine Steel Wool should help the rejuvenate the plate.
Is there any possibility the plate was in a area with any silicon sprays or lubricates? Armor All or Rain-X?
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It was Prusa who put this out there. He had a video for new MK3 users where he recommended and demonstrated wiping the PEI plate with an IPA alcohol pad before each and every print. Coming from him, I think people naturally assumed he knew what he was talking about. I wouldn’t be at all surprised if Prusa’s intro video is still out there on youtube somewhere, or maybe somewhere in the wayback machine.
Oh, this makes more sense now. Thank you.
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The plate hasn’t been near any silicone sprays. I’ve printed ASA on it over the weekend along with a textured PEI but tonight it decided not to stick anymore to the smooth plate.
If I use the steel wool, will that mess up the pattern on the plate?
The pattern looks like this
Set the fan to 0%.
Don’t think that it will help with your adhesion issue, but with ASA, the fan should be off.
I haven’t had to use steel wool on my plate with that pattern yet. I don’t think it will mess up the pattern but I would try it on an edge first.
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I vaguely recollect hearing (maybe it was a Tom Sanlanerer youtube?) that these impression plates yield only a pretty small number of uses.
On the other hand, real carbon fiber probably last a lot longer. i.e. the real thing, not just something which gives that pattern.
OK, I found it. I didn’t quite remember it exactly right, but of more relevance to the OP, even Tom had poor adhesion when he tested ASA on these essentially new fake surfaces:
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I don’t use patterned plates like that, but I doubt using glue will prevent the pattern from transferring. You can apply a super thin layer of glue using the glue stick by wetting the plate after applying the glue and spreading it in circles with a lint free cloth and then in one direction to make for a more uniform application. I use isopropyl alcohol as my wetting agent since it dries quick. The more popular option would be to use thin coats of hair spray, though it’s my least favorite due to the potential overspray. Give that a shot and in the worst case scenario you can just wash it off with soap.
Well, I can believe it would interfere with the iridescent effects, if he’s wanting to preserve that. For that to work, we’re talking about variances that are a fraction of a wavelength of light, are we not?
Sure, I can see that being a problem for the iridescent rainbow pattern plates, but the OP is more concerned with a carbon fiber pattern which I imagine to be quite a bit deeper into the surface and a thin layer of glue shouldn’t really be noticeable.
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You all have given me some great advice and things to try. I think I’ll start with a thin layer of hair spray and see if it messes with the pattern.
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The hairspray worked great for the pattern plate and the pattern still came through
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Liquid glue or hairspray usually works well, but keep in mind that hairspray may rip out that texture finish over time.
