Avoid making prime Tower of the same height of 3D print

Hello, for my first post I just came across a video on Facebook about Creality. They introduced an experimental feature where the print rises above the printer base, so the prime tower doesn’t have to be as tall as the main print.

Is this something we could see on the H2D? Since we can remove the glass, I assume it could also work for prints that don’t require a controlled chamber temperature.

It looks like a useful feature. Here are a GIF from the video — I haven’t found any online videos discussing it yet.

i am sorry for the speed of the GIF but the limit is 5 MO, and i wanted to have the whole process

printer

and some screenshoot





see how tiny the prime tower is ?

the video can be found at this adress on facebook

avoid making prime towers of the same height

so any one of bambu people can tell me if we also can get that ? since its juste some code and nothing else

1 Like

I am not sure, if I get it. You are printing an object at layer height X (e.g. 100), than the print bed goes up all the way to “print” the pruge tower at layer height Y (e.g. 2) and thant the print bed goes back to layer height X+1 for the next layer?
What is the benefit of this time consuming process?

3 Likes

You actually don’t waste much filament with this method. Have you seen the height of the print? Normally, the purge tower would have to be just as tall, which uses a lot more material.

Of course, this is mainly useful for large prints that don’t involve frequent color changes — like the vase the person was printing in the video.

You also need enough clearance for the extruder to move back down, so it won’t work for every print.

My main point was just about having the option to print like this. On a printer that costs over €2000, I think it’s fair to expect more flexibility.

but yes for tall print it could be very usefull

1 Like

So it primes the nozzle, then sits there midair waiting for 10 seconds for the z to readjust? That nozzle needs to be reprimed by then…

This is saving on filament change material, not prime material cuz this is not priming

4 Likes

a prime tower serves multiple purposes:

  1. obviously, clean the nozzle to remove strands. → yes this works
  2. balance the pressure inside the nozzle.-> no because it’s not printing at normal speeds
  3. prevent dripping on the part → no because it has to wait for a long time before the next print and by that time the filament would have already become overcooked and dripped
  4. remove overheated filaments → no because the travel time after priming is too long.

This approach cannot do 2,3 and 4.

However I do see what you mean efficient here. For a few color swaps in a dual nozzle system it does work I think. the only problem to overcome is the filament dripping.

It would have been great if h2d implemented a prime pad near its chute. But one can dream a lot…

2 Likes

Plus not to mention all that traveling, just how accurate is the Z height going to stay……………

2 Likes

Nice, save some cheap filament, increase wear on Z axis components with unnecessary Z rapids over and over, and associated z accuracy concerns. Great trade-off :laughing:

I would never use this feature and can imagine a few other risks as well (crashing anyone? Let’s enable Bambu users to smash the AMS off the roof?)

1 Like

z axis wear? Seriously? every single zhop is way more aggressive than this and much harder on the belt/pully/bearings/motor.

This is an interesting option if the model makes sense to do it with. Priming/nozzle pressure issue can be alleviated through infill purging.

oozing would honestly be the only issue here.

1 Like

I don’t think you can prime by infill purging. It’s very risky to do so. It would be great if someone can utilise the cyberbrick and make something like a rotary wiper for the nozzle…

Good point, especially for “unfriendly” infill patterns to purging it might get a little wacky with ooze and missing material. I remember on an old ender 3 accidentally pushing infill combination too hard and the interior sounded like a Maraca (sp? that instrument filled with beans) cuz of loose un-adhered infill nuggets rattling around lol

Not quite. Long rapid moves create more heat in moving components, it’s way better if the Z axis just doesn’t have rapid moves at all :+1:

1 Like

Yeah it still happens if you use patterns like rectilinear or zigzag

I don’t understand this. So the bed has to keep moving up and down just to go back to a low prime tower on the build plate? How often does it need to do this? Every layer? Or just every color change?

every color change, so it’s not too much

1 Like

The prime tower is pretty sparse in my experience and, while it does use material, not so much that the trade-offs you’d get with this method end up being beneficial imo.

That depends heavily upon your model.
If you have a multi-material model and the color would be high up in the model, it would save a lot of filament.

On smaller models, the prime tower sometimes consumes more filament than the part.

In my opinion the requirements of the part determine if you could consider to prime in the infill.

FB? That was the first mistake.
I rarely use towers, and just use “wipe into ####” settings.
Ever so often I can see where the wipe put a piece somewhere that I hadn’t expected. But overall, it does great.

1 Like

Change the prime tower size to the absolute minimum and print.
The idea of moving z up and down to minimize the insignificant amount of filament saved is silly. You PURGE 2x material as a small prime tower uses and you WILL lose position on a large up and down. Nah, I don’t think so.

2 Likes

I’m currently a Prusa MK4S user and I am considering buying a H2D because of it being a real dual extruder printer (not quite like the Multi Material upgrade MMU3 on my MK4S) and much more affordable price than Prusa XXL.

I use multi material in most cases for support interfaces so two materials in one print is 99% of the time sufficient for me - making the H2D an ideal candidate.

So I downloaded latest Bambu Studio, sliced some of my models that I have been printing on my MK4S (to compare the difference) and I noticed that the real dual extruder H2D uses more material in most cases than my single extruder MK4S because of the prime tower.

On the MK4S it’s a purge tower + prime tower where on the H2D it’s a prime tower only so I expected less material but it seems like it’s always the same height as the highest layer with material change.
I was reading through all these posts here and see the arguments, but, to be fair, that setting called “No sparse layers” in Prusa Slicer reduces the height of the tower to very few layers (depending on the amount of color changes) and it works really well. The tower is only high enough to support purging/wiping and that seemingly saves significant amount of filament.

The Z axis on the MK4S is relatively slow, only 40 mm/s, but still I never had any issues at all using that feature and I’m mainly printing technical/functional parts where stability and precision completely matter.