I have some problem when I print rounded corners.
In this case i printed with PETG.
Does anyone know what could cause this?
In this case i printed with PETG.
Does anyone know what could cause this?
Looking at this inverted (the way it printed), it looks like the end lifted from the plate, which would have messed up the layers above.
To prevent this again:
- Wash the plate gently with warm water and dishwashing detergent (don’t scour it as that will damage the surface and wear the coating out prematurely).
- Dry the plate with a clean dish cloth or paper towel, but don’t touch the surface.
- Apply some glue all across the entire bed, systematically in even rows. Make sure to apply glue to the right rear where the purge line is printed and to the front where the automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration patterns are printed.
- Avoid touching the surface of the plate when removing the printed parts(s), the prime line at the rear and the lines at the front if automatic Flow Dynamics Calibration was enabled.
The glue stops the part detaching during printing, and also acts as a release agent to make it easier to remove the print when it has cooled after printing.
Glue can last for many, many prints and a small bottle may last months. Moving parts around the plate from one print to another will lengthen the time until the next wash and glue application are needed.
Printing leaves a pattern so it’s easy to see where there’s still an unused glue area.
Many prints can nonetheless be done in the same area without having to reapply - the glue is not “used up” in one print.
If a large print or tiny prints without a brim are being attempted, it may be best to reapply glue before any signs of lifting or detachment.
Liquid glue is easier to apply and less messy than glue sticks, and the layer is thinner and more consistent.
The second table in the link below lists glue compatibility for different materials.
The glue stick is recommended for PC, PA, PA-CF, PA-GF, PAHT-CF, PAHT-GF.
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No, the end has not been lifted from the build plate so that’s not the problem!
Anyone else out there who has a clue what cause this?
Is this angle change part of the design? I thought it was the corner lifting.
There’ a lot of things that could cause this but your post isn’t very helpful. Pardon the annoyance but you’ve provided a photo that clearly isn’t representative of how the model was oriented on the build plate. That will only serve to confuse an observer and waste a lot of time while we tease information out of you.
It’s clear from the print that the top of the image shows the impression left behind by the textured PEI plate, whereas the bottom of the image shows layer stripes that clearly represent the top of the model. While not immediately obvious, these are two separate parts. So what you did, without realizing it, is obfuscate your model, thus confusing any viewer and making analysis very difficult, if not impossible.
That’s not fair to the community if you want to seek quality feedback you need to produce and clear post.
If you want quality feedback, it would help to print a screengrab of the model as it is shown in the slicer preview window. From there, we can ascertain the orientation of the model on the build plate. The image you show indicates that you’re experiencing bad layer adhesion. Model orientation might remedy this, or adjustments to filament or slicer settings may help too. However, since we don’t have that information, we can guess as to what is going wrong.
Also, what steps have you taken to verify your calibration and setup? Are you using a tuned filament profile or just defaults? What temperature is the filament at and do you have the part cooling fan turned on or off? What speed are you printing at?
Yes, the angle is a part of the design.
Sorry but I didn’t think that far.
You are absolutely right. The picture showed a fully assembled part.
Have taken a new photo showing how the detail was printed.
I don’t think it has anything to do with layer adhesion.
I use Generic PETG profile.
If you need more information, let me know.
OK. Thanks for clarifying that information.
So based on this, it confirms that you’re having a overhang issue. I am leaning towards thinking this is a layer adhesion issue exacerbated by multiple causes. The two leading suspects are related to temps and filament flow.
May I assume that you already calibrated your filament? If not, that should be a first step. In this case, I’m thinking you will want to first run a temp tower. Normally I don’t recommend this but what you’re looking for in the temp tower is filament hanging like you see in your model.
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Temp Tower (This is baked into Orca Slicer)
Using a temp tower you want to look at the leading edge for droop. Layer height also has an impact. I’ve included three examples. Yo can see that the temp tower isn’t perfect but more a “spectrum” of temperature bands that each produce a result that is a compromise. You will want to determine which one looks the least-bad and try that as your filament temp.
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Speed
I don’t think you’ll find a magic bullet but a simple experiment would be to try the print in quiet mode. You can access that only after the print has started. It is annoying because it’s a half baked feature that requires you to click on it multiple times to make sure the setting sticks. Alternatively, this can also be set from the front panel too, which you may find easier.
While this will double the print time, it is a very quick way of narrowing down filament flow as a possible issue in that it will slow all movements by 50%.
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Troubleshooting tricks
However, here are some troubleshooting tricks I would do first to make diagnostics easier and quicker without wasting a lot of filament.
- Using the cut tool, cut off a section of the model to use as a test. The goal is to isolate the part giving you grief.
- Copy this model 3 more times and place them in a 2 x 2 pattern on the plate.
- Change the orientation of each test model in 90 degree increments.
What this will do will allow give you quick test subjects. The change in orientation will allow us to see if airflow over the model is a factor in the layers being deposited so poorly.
Before making any changes to your settings, print the test models. You can either use a white paint marker, tape, or the text tool to identify the models. This will help you keep track of their orientation after you move them off the build plate.
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Layer Height
The next thing my try is verifying if layer height is impacting the overhang problem. You can verify your layer height in the preview screen and select the layer height drop down. Also, experimenting with the variable layer height tool can also help narrow down if its is a layer height issue. I can tell you that I have had some PETG and PC filaments that simply cannot produce decent results on overhangs when I go below 0.20 layer height.
Layer Height Tool
Layer Height display in the preview menu using the drop down. (After slicing)
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Humour me… If this happens again, then before removing the part from the plate, try slide a very thin piece of paper under the ends to check if they have lifted, even if it’s only a fraction of a millimeter.
PETG does not stick well to this plate, especially for long parts that are more likely to curl up at the ends. It may not even be visible but if it lifts 0.1mm per layer due to shrinkage, that’s enough for the nozzle to collide with the preceding layer.
The apparent change in angle of the filament layer looks like a compounding lifting or over-extrusion at the corners.
You could monitor this by inserting a PAUSE at the end of every second layer for the first 30 layers and take a photo. A timelapse video may also show the increasing defect at the corners as every layer is added. If the nozzle is colliding with the preceding layer, it may also make a noise.
Just trying to help…
Sorry … no gap between piece and plate.
Printed the same part on my Prusa XL and got similar defects 
Trying to print the part now on X1C in Stelth mode … will let you know the result!
Almost perfect corners! One corner had a small defect!
I will try to change printing with outer walls first and see if that helps … if not the next thing will be to see if it will help to slow down the speed for the outer walls.
Change to print outer walls first seems to help but slow down speed did not. But I am satisfied with the result now except for the fact that the seam now is the most visual defect on the part.
Is there a way to make it less visible? I can’t cange the position (Change the seam position or paint it someware else) … it’s still eyecathing!
Thank you all for your support!
You could try slicing and printing using Orca Slicer, and use the “scarf seam” feature for a far less visible seam (in some cases). This is sure to be ported into Bambu Slicer soon.
Update: Scarf seam has been in the Bambu Studio Beta since V1.9.0
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