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Everything printed fairly well on the P2S.
“Upgrade” to the X2D and I’m finding this type of layering on smaller multicolour prints using the AMSs:
These are printed “as is” using the “open in Bambu Studio” option but it seems the X2D is unable to handle fine detail if it also has to switch between colours.
If I print the same object but in monotone single colour, the layering is great and finish is smooth.
The P2S seemed to do better so I’m wondering, is this something I’m doing wrong or has anyone else had this issue?
(X2D with 2 AMS and 1 AMS-HT all going into a Track Switch. Above happens regardless of whether I choose “filament saving” that uses both nozzles or “quality mode” that tends to only use the L nozzle)
It would help to describe a little more, since the x2d has asymmetric nozzles.
Focusing just on your dumpling:
Was the aux nozzle used for any of the colors? I see blue, black, white, pink, tan but maybe the tan is a seperate print. Did you run [at least the automatic] calibrations on ALL of those, from the nozzle that printed it? The blue in particular looks really incorrect pressure advance, but it could be the model you sourced it from leaving some of those overhangs/gaps around the eyes.
On the other model, you have the same rough issues as the dumpling, but the white you print in is also fairly translucent so its gonna show the deep black parts of the eye and look kind of eerie - especially noticable since the lines are stacked roughly and makes the shadow even more apparent. I’d look for a more opaque white to really get that visually crisp. Avoid the mattes imo
Also the obvious: Make sure youve run the full suite of calibrations from the machine’s touchscreen since the last time youve updated firmware
I concur with @Bullocks and his observation that it is rather difficult to diagnose not knowing which nozzle was used for which color (or even layer).
I’d look at the dumpling from the back as well to determine if those thick layers are a nozzle offset or a flow issue. If it is an offset issue, a new nozzle offset calibration should already help quite a bit.
Otherwise, I’d try to assign colors in custom mode to nozzles so the “front”, main colors (brown and turquoise) are printed using the left, direct drive extruder only.
Secondary colors will probably still suffer from laggy Pressure Advance through the right nozzle. But, besides a calibration specifically for that nozzle, you could try to reduce its impact by slowing black and grey by using a much lower max flow (1mm³/s). Those areas are really small compared to the total layer so the knock down on time-to-completion should be minimal.
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Sorry, I can’t remember exactly what nozzle did what (printed a couple of weeks ago). I do remember using filament saving mode and I think it might have been pink on R and the blue/black on L (you’re right, it’s a clicker so the brown base printed as a separate object).
Frustratingly, if I try to re-open the exact model in bambustudio, even filament saving mode puts everything goes through the L main nozzle, so I can’t be sure how it printed.
If I print something slightly larger like this giraffe, even using both nozzles it comes out perfectly first time:
Yellow in main L nozzle and black in R auxillary nozzle - as you can see, no layer issues, no bleed, it all looks as it should.
I’ve even deliberately printed items on R nozzle only (usually monochrome though) and they come out fine so I don’t think it’s an inherent hardware issue…..possibly a firmware setting that becomes apparent with smaller multicolour prints where the colours are close together? Should I slow the speed down for these smaller ones?
Mhmm. Intersting observations.
If it is size related, I’d expect defects to align with a preview image. So before trying a small print again, it may help to double check that for obvious highlights in particular (but not only) in the layer time preview.
As for slowing down, that is usually one of my first steps in troubleshooting (after all the basics). It evens out cooling, reduces pressure advance related defects (if acceleration is reduced as well) and gives more time to actually observe what is happening. I usually go with heavy reductions (50% or even less). Taking a timelapse can also help greatly in understanding what is happening.
If you still have the dumpling, you could have a look at the back to positively rule out a nozzle offset issue as the defect would change around the perimeter.
Filament saving mode may help to explain the black bleed through. However, in this case, I’d expect a more prominent “smearing” rather than the halo.
Although not related to this specific defect, I have also found adaptive layer height to be beneficial. It evens out heat input per layer (and hence cooling per layer) which can be quite useful for other problems. The reason I mention it here is that it will further improve the print in the shallow top area.
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