After updating to the latest firmware (and done the noise cancalation calibration) on my P1S, I can no longer use sport-mode while printing.
When I do the print clogs/get really bad. As long as I use normal mode it seems to print fine.
This is what it looks like when using sport mode :
Is there anyone els that noticed this problem?
You might check to see if the thermal paste is starting to dry out on your nozzle. The faster you print, the more heat has to transfer from the heater to the filament and this can be inhibited but the paste starting to break down.
Itâs a new printer, I got it 27/12-2023 and have printed like 10-15 prints on it. So it should not be worn yet!
I also have an P1P since 6 months back, Iâve updated this printer to, but havenât done any prints yet. Iâll try to print something with it later today, just to se if it acts the same.
If theyâre using GD900, which they very likely are, itâs technically starting to break down at 200C. The further up you get away from this and for longer accelerates this breakdown. Most new users will likely be printing at low 210-220 for most of the introductory period so they wonât notice it until the requisite 6 months âmy nozzle is cloggingâ post here.
Dunno what youâre printing and at what temps, but highly indicative of thermal paste failure if youâve already ruled out debris/half-burnt filament by doing cold pulls (assuming youâve done that).
Swapping the nozzle out will show if itâs a nozzle problem or something else.
I printed PLA with standard settings @ 220°
Bumped up the temp to 225° when I switched ti sportmode.
Did a reprint at normal speed, and it went fine, except warping. Probably because the aux-fan was set to 100% in the profile.
I printed 3 small boxes att normal speed today, it worked fine. Realy nice results:
Needed another one, so I tried to speed it up using sport mode, the results:
Sportmode works on my P1P after uppgrading the SW. Does anyone know if it is the same SW?
Next upp is to do a new calibrationâŚ
You havenât mention what filament your using. Some brands really struggle at faster flow rates.
The orange is Bambu filament that I got with the printer, the gray is a local filament, but it has worked fine to print fast before.
I have this occurring as well in normal mode. Passed calibrations and self test. Just bringing the printer up from 2 weeks of downtime from waiting for a support ticket to be answered for a completely separate issue (failed initialization and self test due to warped waste chute contacting the bed).
When I modified the chute and got it to pass calibration and self test, I also installed the new firmware
Interested to know if other see this, solutions, ideas?
Overture PLA+ at 195 other settings default
I would post pictures but the wiki returns âyour file is zero bytesâ error every time and after dealing with the complete lack of customer support staff I am doneâŚ
195 seems low? Especially if youâre printing at faster speeds. I print Overture PLA+ at 220 without issues. On my previous printer I printed it at 210.
Thanks Josh. I am coming from an Tevo Tornado, so thatâs why I was trying 195, it is my go to for pla. Didnât know about the speed difference for the new higher speeds, I will do some research. I did come across a possible fix: The print that was failing multiple times was from MakerWorld and it was printed on a P1P printer. Just before I called it quits last night, I went back to the last file of any type that successfully printed and it was good. That tells me that something about the settings imported with the file is the issue. Just need to find it. After coffee of courseâŚ
Would love someone to chime in on me not being able to post normal old jpg pics from my phone to this wiki?
You should be able to now that you have move to âbasic userâ user status. âNew usersâ are restricted on posting pictures and creating new threads.
Thanks Jon I appreciate itâŚ
