Bad prints with 0.8 Nozzle

Hello :slight_smile:

Could someone please provide me with the settings for the Bambu Studio for the 0.8 nozzle?

No matter which settings I change, the print result remains poor and unchanged.
For testing, I am printing calibration cubes (XYZ), and they do not meet the quality I am aiming for.
I’m starting to suspect that the 0.8 nozzle may be defective.
I have recalibrated the printer, performed auto calibration in the studio, increased the temperature, adjusted the flow, and changed the speed in the studio. Unfortunately, there was no improvement.

Attached is an image of my latest print. Printed with Bambu PLA Matte and the filament is dry.


Not sure maybe turn the heat up a little. I have a 0.8 nozzle I have tried yet, I will give it a try later today and see if I have any luck with it.

Heat up the temperature? I actually reduced it for ABS from 270° to 240°. This resulted in less stringing. For PLA, I increased it from 190° to 200° and 205° for testing.

Maybe you could try printing an XYZ cube as a test. Mine don’t look very good.




Calibration cubes can tell you if your models have the correct dimensions, but they don’t tell you anything about what needs to change for better print quality. Randomly picking a different temperature might (or might not) produce a better result, but is it the best result? Maybe you’ve overshot an even better result, or didn’t quite get to the optimal temperature.

There are lots of test models available, but the most complete, easy to use collection is in Orca-Slicer. They test an entire range of values for one variable at a time so that you can select the best. If the best is not within that range, you can test another range and you will at least know which direction to move. Then move on to another variable. Temperature, flow rate, pressure advance, etc. Max flowrate may be of particular interest with a large nozzle, after the other settings are optimized.

It does take some time to fully calibrate a filament (or re-calibrate with a different nozzle) but you save the time otherwise wasted on random changes resulting in bad prints.

You should not print with so low temps. The 220 for PLA have a reason: speed. To keep the filaments fluid: the daster you print, the higher the nozzle should be.

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Thank you for advice :slight_smile:

Yesterday, I tried to get a decent print but unfortunately without success :frowning:

I performed a calibration on the Orca Slicer, but it did not improve anything…
During the flow test, 0 was the best result and the temperature tower also looks terrible.

I increased the temperature to 220° and printed quickly (sport mode & crazy mode) and slowly.

The results remained the same.
I also tested the flow rate at 0.9 and the maximum flow rate at 16.
The result was the same.

The Last Print (Ghost) was after a Auto calibration.

Could the nozzle be defective?
Does anyone have any advice for me :frowning:



I tried setting up my .08 hotend without any luck. Does anyone have any suggestions of what settings I could try for bambu matt pla? Or does 0la even print good with .08?

On a lark, modify the filament volumetric flow rate and knock it down to 80% of current. I suspect the heating element being one sided isn’t able to meet the theoretical calculations as the molten side is pushed out the nozzle before the heat transfer occurs to the other side (laminar flow).

Run slower or hotter. The temp tower looks the best at the highest temp and the parts look good close to the heated bed. At max, the speed should be less than half of what you would run with the factory nozzle. Bigger nozzles dont always mean faster prints. They do make stronger prints though.

I started a few experiments yesterday and came to the realization that there are better results when I set the printer to the 0.6 nozzle and use the profile for the 0.6 nozzle in Bambu Studio, and also adjust the retraction slightl…its not perfect but better:
Bambu0.6