Bambu 3D Effect Sheet

Bambu Lab X1 Series Bambu Lab X1C
1

Sorry to be a pain and I’m probably doing something wrong, but I cannot get a print to stick to the Bambu 3D Effect Sheet! I’m using basic Bambu PLA but nothing sticks to it and I just end up with a mess! HELP

2

I had issues as well. What worked for me was

  1. Wash the build plate with detergent and soft sponge.
  2. Print first layer slow. 20 mm/s perimeter and 30mm/s infill.
    Good luck.
2 Likes
3

Great, thanks I’ll give it a go and see what happens

4

I’m afraid that didn’t work either!
Shame, it’s a nice idea to have textures plates, but not a workable item, maybe they will get it right at some point. Still I’ve got a spare smooth plate. :frowning:

5

I have used mine on several occasions without any issues.

  1. Choose “smooth PEI” in the slicer
  2. Run at 65 ºC bed temp instead of the default 55 ºC
  3. Before print, wipe the plate thoroughly with a clean micro fiber cloth.
2 Likes
6

Did you set the plate to the Smooth PEI?

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7

Yes I did, tried too many times now, I think it’s a bin job :frowning:

8

That is a shame. I got really nice results with it, once I set the correct plate type.
It may be worth opening a ticket though. Either it works afterwards or you can ask for a refund/voucher.
Other troubleshooting ideas relate to the increased 1st layer temp mentioned above and an increased flow/line width for the first layer.

9

I’ve used these sheets a lot and the only time I ever had a problem was when I tried PETG on there, sometimes it works sometimes it doesn’t, but PLA I have never had an issue with.

Same deal as has been stated +10C on bed and using smooth PEI / high temp plate setting.

Also, remember to turn OFF the automatic calibration on the print menu when you go to print. And turn OFF Device>Print Options>Enable Detection of Build Plate Position. All of which is stated in the wiki for the 3d plates so perhaps you are already doing all of this.

10

Thanks for your help, still no go so went in the bin :frowning:

11

Hey, I managed it with the 65°C heatbed setting. Now the prints stick very good.

12

Apologies, I am very new to 3D printing so a lot to learn. I recently got an XI Carbon and having loads of fun. Just added a Carbon fibre 3D effect plate and was having problem with the prints sticking but the advice hear solved the problem so thanks to the contributors. I have a question though. What type and colour PLA do people find provides the most realistic Carbon fibre effect? I have tried the Black PLA Basic and was a little disappointed compared to the images of the plate effect shown on the BBL website. Should I try a PLA Silk of PLA Metal? Thanks

13

Try PLA Matte. I have found that it works really nicely for a “woven CFRP”. For a really flashy part, painting with a thick, glossy clearcoat will probably help.

The diamnond pattern works well with Silk/Metal PLA.

I like the Starry Galaxy pattern on White Marble but have not yet tried it with Matte where I’d hope for a good contrast.

3 Likes
14

Thanks for the suggestion. I will give them it a try with some Matt Black PLA. Cheers.

1 Like
15

Hi,

I experienced the same issue. I followed advices above, it fixed my problem.
1. Wash the build plate with detergent, hot water and soft sponge or nail brush.
2. Choose “smooth PEI / high temp plate”
3. Change heatbed Temp from 55°C to 65°C
4. Slow down first layer print speed. to 20 mm/s perimeter and 30mm/s infill.

Thank you all

1 Like
16

Thanks for all you help and advise, I may try again at some stage and get another pattern sheet and the last one went in the bin :frowning:

17

Hey, degrease the plate. In bambulab studio set Smooth PEI Plate/ High Temp Plate and now the important thing turn off Build Plate Detection. Because if you don’t, the print will do exactly what you describe. I hope this helped you, it did for me on the X1C.

I don’t know why Bambu Lab doesn’t have the option of selecting their 3D Effect Plate in their studio. Maybe if a lot of us write in, they’ll add it…

Translated with DeepL.com (free version)

1 Like
18

I’ve had similar issues with the plate, here’s what I have done every time to get good prints:

  • Set the build plate to Smooth PEI in Bambu Studio
  • Clean the plate regularly
  • Turn on auto bed leveling, but disable flow dynamics calibration
  • Disable first layer detection check.

The key takeaway is to ensure that the LiDAR is used as little as possible, as the LiDAR does not like the effect sheets all that much. I run Hatchbox PLA on my plate and it works just fine.

2 Likes
19

The smooth plate with stickers on both side is still less thick than the textured PEI plate. Auto level will handle the minute difference when selecting smooth plate so I see no need for effect plate option.

I have found settings similar to the PETG glass profile works really well with the effect plate. To get transparent PETG you need to run hot and slow, which is also kinda what the stickers want. Here: (not me)

https://makerworld.com/en/models/40765-print-glass-with-your-bambu-x1-x1e-p1s-p1p-orca-ba#profileId-40699

If you care about adhesion and not full transparency, only keep the settings for the initial layer, then the rest can be standard. If wanting to use PLA, duplicate the filament profile but lower the nozzle temp to 220 and bed to 55

20

Wanted to add some comments to this thread, as I’ve had this same experience with both the Bambu labs original plates as well as the off brand plates.
The issue in most cases is in the machine start up g-code. I have an X1 Carbon, and my machine start G-code ONLY had a zoffset configuration for the textured PEI. which meant if you selected ANY other plate the chance of failure was very high.

The fix is quite simple, but requires you to first of all add the missing plates into your machine g-code.

when I bought my X1 Carbon, I only had a textured PEI plate - it worked perfectly and all was good in the world. autodetected fine etc.
however I picked up a smooth plate, selected it in the slicer and then nothing worked. The issue looks like an adhesion problem, so everyone will give the same advice, ‘clean your plate, slow down’ etc etc. In reailty what was happening was something that I’d not calibrated since having an Ender3. The Zoffset was wrong, and the bambu printers don’t make this obvious to you at all in anyway. it is Only configurable in the Machine g-code.

So - first of all you need to look at the machine g-code in the printer configuration, (save yourself a ‘tuned’ profile) and then add in the additional plates.

you’re looking for the section in the g-code that contains this line:

“;===== for Z offset management ==”

When i read through the following g-code, I realized this was correctly configuring the z-offset for my textured PEI plate. But I was totally unaware how the z-offset was being configured for any other plate I might select in the slicer.

So the fix is relatively simple. Add in the other plates so you can then actually use the other plate settings in the slicer, with differing heat profiles.

;===== for Z offset management ==
;========== For Textured PEI Plate, Cool Plate =========================================
;curr_bed_type={curr_bed_type}
{if curr_bed_type==“Textured PEI Plate”}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; <-------for Textured PEI Plate
{endif}
{if curr_bed_type==“High Temp Plate”}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; <-------for High Temp Smooth Plate
{endif}
{if curr_bed_type==“Cool Plate”}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; <-------for Cool Plate
{endif}
{if curr_bed_type==“Engineering Plate”}
G29.1 Z{-0.04} ; <-------for Engineering Plate
{endif}

Thats the g-code for mine, you can see I set the z-offset for all those other plate types to be the same, low and behold everything started printing properly. where there were minor issues I could then focus on tweaking the bed temp, or nozzle configuration / fans etc. But now my z-offset had a ‘per plate’ adjustable value.

You can now really start to print on those textured effect plates as well as manage the temperature control and even tweak the z-offset if you think you need to.

Hope that helps - took me a while to work it all out as most people’s advice was helpful but missed the root of the problem. slapping down glue or just ‘cleaning the bed’ was not the right path. the z-offset just needed to be correct.

happy printing.