I have two X1C’s and have been printing with them for awhile, however I started having issues with Printing large object in Bambu PLA Basic Black. I do not have this issue with any other color, and the issue is on both printers.
If the object is smaller there isnt much of an issue, and I use the stock profile from Bambu.
I have also tried drying this out several times on the Sunlu S4 for 8 hours on PLA settings thinking it might have some moisture in it even though I live in Nevada which has very low humidity.
Include are pictures of the latest object I tried to print, as you can also see a bunch of “flakes” collect at the bottom of my printer.
Due to the fact that some layers are fine: You may be printing too hot and too slow for the temperature. You may be printing too fast for the set temperature. It could be that the thermistor is defective or does not provide correct values due to circumstances, so that the nozzle overheats or remains too cold.
Only use standard settings to solve the problem. If the filament is dry, calibrate it. As it is black, calibrate it manually after inspection, not automatically. Or do not calibrate it at all before printing. If you do not calibrate the filament at all, the standard K-factor will be used, which is sufficient for testing.
Dry the filament again as Bambulab intended (temp. and time). You didn’t write which nozzle you use, so I think: 0.4mm. If you print with larger nozzles, bear in mind that filament characteristics can become more apparent (e.g. moisture).
If it still does not work at this point, replace the nozzle completely, with a thermistor on it, heat sink and fan.
If this does not work after drying again and standard settings, as well as a nozzle change, I would try to complain about it. Maybe there is something wrong with the filament composition.
Check the slicer preview for speed and flow rate
Even the layer time can often show issues.
Unless the surface is meant to look like rock your extrusion is going nuts somehow.
PLA is very forgiving but if you don’t get the mix of speed and temp right all sorts of bad things can happen…
If your filament is bad, it still may be possible to use it. But it sounds like you’re expecting consistency with Bambu filament. Do a search on some of the filament sub forums here and see all the complaints about Bambu’s recent downgrade in quality. Things for very different output results to white filament no longer being the same shade of white.
So, you have two choices: either forget about default filament profiles and automation and manually calibrate this filament to compensate for the poor product quality, or throw it away and buy someone else’s product.
Or you could open up a support ticket and waste weeks for them to get back to you then ask you to send them your logs, then go back and forth a few more times to possibly get it resolved by Christmas. Or you may hit the support lottery if they know they are having problems and they will give you a free coupon for a color nobody wants.
I had and have filaments lying around for years and then notice no difference when I use it again. So rule out “too old” when troubleshooting.
I have only listed the possible sources of error that I can think of. I don’t know whether any of them apply to you. I don’t know how your printers have been treated, whether you swap nozzles or not, and if you do, how you do it. If the brainstorming ideas given to you do not seem relevant, exclude them.
Wasn’t there recently this serial error here in the forum with the USB-C cable that is installed in the printer? This apparently or probably not only affected one printer.
I can only agree on the quality issues…
Consistency matter but some are unable to provide this.
I had this in the past with other companies when they decided to ‘improve’ things.
Usually means lower production costs and lower standards.
If not that then the testing is cut short.
One of the worst problems I ever had was bubbles in the filament.
For some reason black seems to be more affected by this than any other colour, except white.
While I first though this due to mainly recycled content in black filament it is actually more a matter of impossible quality control.
Optical won’t work, so you need a dedicated ultrasonic sensor to check the density during production.
This however ins not always done ongoing but instead reduced to random checks.
There was a little documentary series a few years back highlighting various modern things, including 3D printing and how filament is made.
Not sure if it was intentional but they had a shot showing pallets of filament ready for shipping - to 4 of well known companies ROFL.
Turned out the only difference was the colours and additives added to the base granules making the filament.
But those additives are apparently what makes all the difference…
Problem for us is that making a quality related claim on a roll of filament is next to useless.
Especially if you think it would result in other affected people being notified about the issue at hand…
Only once a whole batch is deemed unusable thing get moving but even then chances are you already lost time, money and sanity trying to fix things.
Still good luck getting a refund…
I ordered some more and will try with newer, fresher spools.
What is weird is that PLA Matte Black prints fine. The PLA Basic Black also prints fine on smaller objects.
Doing a calibration resulted in no changes to Flow Dynamic (K Factor) and no change change to Flow Rate.
Here is a temp tower, as you can see the tower itself seems fine, it is the longer runs on the underside that are “stringy”. It does look better at 190 and 220 but not by much.
Since it is happening on longer/larger prints I wonder if you are getting a partial clog from the chamber temps creeping up over time of print. Try printing with the door or top glass opened up.
Those strings on the underside go away if you tune your bridging settings.
You want the speed and flow to result in those strings to be as free of sagging as possible while also being properly attached on either end.
Long bridges can be tricky to tune in…
Start with just the speed to see how fast you bridge without loosing things.
Then check if a slight change of flow improves the quality.
Since you print in free air it will never be perfect but it should be possible to get it more or less flat and even.
I just got a new x1 carbon and it will not allow me to print with the generic PLA that came with the printer? Any suggestions? If I have another filament in the printer it will substitute it, if it is the only filament, it just does not let me send to printer. Makes no sense to me.
The printer recognizes the filament as does the software, but I can’t seem to print with it. If I only load the black PLA-CF and create a simple cylinder, the message when I go to print is “Please select each filament above to specify its mapping AMS slot before sending the print job” and it does not allow me to send to print
If you do have PLA CF, have you added a PLA CF entry to the filament chooser in the prepare tab of Bambu Studio and then selected your model and changed the filament assigned to it to be the PLA CF?
The printer says PLA-CF as does the spool. It almost looks like like a braded charging cord you can buy (if that makes sense) by your reaction, does this mean it is more expensive and maybe I should not use it for test prints?
I do see in the software, although I tell it to sync filaments list from AMS that it syncs the color, but it says PLA Basic. Maybe this is the problem?
Forget the sync, use the filament chooser (top left of the prepare tab) and change the type by using the drop down on the filament entry, change it to Bambu Lab PLA CF if you are sure the spool says it on the side.
It is more expense than basic PLA and in the starting point of the premium filaments.
Or you may hit the support lottery if they know they are having problems and they will give you a free coupon for a color nobody wants. 
