Bambu Cool Plate SuperTack Pro VS Textured PEI (PETG)

Bambu Lab H2 Series
1

Hi,

i normally print PETG-HF which was not a problem with my P1S. Adhesion was good but not extremely strong.

With the H2C the PETG-HF adhesion is pretty strong, even after the print cooled down.

I dont want to use glue or anything like that.

So my question to Cool Plate SuperTack Pro Users: Does this plate release PETG prints better compared to the default textured PEI? If this is the case i would think about switching to the Cool Plate SuperTack Pro.

Thanks!

2

I can’t speak for PETG so i’m only half answering your question but for PLA even when cooled down to 13°C my parts were still absolutely rock solidly stuck to the STP plate. With no glue. Genuinely took me a long time to remove the 20 parts on it

3

Thanks. PLA releases kind of fast on the textured PEI, so if even PLA sticks stronger to the STP, then i can only guess that PETG sticks even more.

4

I print Bambu PETG HF with my H2C with default textured PEI and the Bambu Cool Plate Super Tack Pro. For the to plate, PETG stick very well. With a cold plate for textured PEI without glue, it’s really hard to remove and let the surface with with spot.

It’s hard to remove PETG from cool plate super tack, but the surface stay really clean.

5

H2C with both plates here. You gotta check the slicer settings, because current Studio doesn’t seem to know about the STP (only the older ST). At least for the H2 printers. So by default if you select the “Cool Plate Super Tack” you get temperatures for that older plate.

So by default with PETG it’s setting bed temperature to 70C. Which I think is a bit high… the advertised/recommended temperature is 60C. Which may be a bit low, but depending on the model.

Overall it’s much easier to remove prints from the STP when it is still warm. Which may seem odd given you want it to stick more during printing, and is basically the opposite of PEI. But I’ve not had any sticking problems during prints, certainly seems to grip at least as well as the textured PEI and maybe better. You can still warp prints on it, it’s not a magic bullet.

From what I’ve observed, the longer the PETG is on a hotter plate, the more it sticks once the plate cools. Keeping it at 70C makes for some very sticky PETG HF if you don’t remove it quickly. BL PETG Translucent sticks even more (too much, hard to remove, definitely recommend lower temps).

One trick I found though is to keep the first layer high, at, say, 70C, then reduce bed to 65 or 60C. This actually makes the plate grip the first layer tighter as it cools a bit. But overall it still releases fairly easily. Kinda neat.

BTW also PLA Tough+ is very hard to get off at the default temperature of 45C of the old “Cool Plate Super Tack” plate. Definitely want to lower that for the STP. I haven’t tried other filaments yet.

-Max

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After foolishly letting the plate cool last night, I spent about two hours carefully removing the remnants of my latest PETG-HF print. Thanks for the settings tip! Like you mentioned, I usually pull everything off (plate bend and twist technique) fairly quickly after the print completes. Dialing down that bed temp will hopefully avoid another session like that.

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