Of course, it depends on what are you comparing it to?
Open bed slingers? Yes, in that comparison P1 will shine.
However, plate lifting, bowing, corner warping are quite big on a stock P1\X1. It’s pointless to argue with that, unless you print tiny symmetrical parts and then claim that everything is “fine”.
Of course you can mitigate those issues by “fixing” the printer: locking the plate, blanketing the printer, etc. But that’s not really a stock condition. Oh, and there exists some ABS blends, like easy ABS which are easier to print, but … that’s not really an ABS, as it negates the majority of the ABS qualities…
About 60% of my printing is ABS/ASA and nylon with no problems. A TPU door seal and chamber heater fixes all those issues you mentioned for about $60 in parts:
I’ve printed lots of regular ABS on my almost stock P1s (so no heated chamber) with really rare warping issues, usually only on tall models where the printing area gets away from being heated by the bed.
The only mod I did to it, which might aid in keeping the chamber temperature, was adding a thin weather strip/gasket on the inside of the door to pretty much make them air-tight - and I did that because I don’t want ABS fumes anywhere except through the fan out + duct I made for it.
I guess you missed the point where I bolded out the word “stock”.
Thanks captain, I know that with all of that it can print no problem. Afterall, I mainly print engineering materials…
I think you guys are forgetting about the purpose of all this discussion.
I’ll remind you. Don’t trust into what manufacturer’s marketing say. Trust in multiple reviews of the unit.
I’ll remind the thing about X1 and P1:
They claim P1 and X1 are ideal for ABS\ASA. What in the world you can call this ideal?
Capable? Yes. Ideal? Hell no.
Just as a side derail comment: Try to look at rear electronics isolation, idler covers and pretty much hole covers to further reduce air leaks. Internal air recirculation mods are also great, and mods to replace factory BL filter with bigger and deeper HEPA\charcoal pockets are amazing in cleaning up air. Just keep in mind: Air filter filters out only particulate matter, and charcoal filters out only volatile compounds (akak “fumes”).
I print ABS stock. I haven’t added anything as far as sealing or chamber heating. It prints amazingly. Like I haven’t really had issues with warping or the plate lifting, or whatever.
I don’t print tiny things either. I do full plate prints. I’ve been printing a bunch of my spools in ABS. They’ve been coming out perfect.
One of the first prints I did on my X1C was a large ABS print. Like takes up most the bed and the height, large. It was a bigger model scaled up. I picked it because it was one of the first ABS prints I ever made, back when I first got my 3d printer nearly 10 years ago. In all the places that original model warped, the one printed on the X1C didn’t.
Literally have not had those issues printing with my stock P1/X1. You want to act like it’s a complete and utter given, but dude, it isn’t.
Like I’m sorry that you have had a bad time with it, but don’t go acting like your bad time is everyone’s bad time. I’ve loved my P1S for ABS prints. My stock P1S.
And don’t try to single me out on this. It’s quite easy to open the search button in the top right and type “ABS warp” and see a plethora of results from frustrated users.
FYI: Plate lifting happens because of the combination of two things: weak magnets (it gets weaker with heating) and thin plate (engineering plate or PEI). The result:
I’m anything but a fanboy of any company, let alone BL - in fact, I said many times here, I’m not going to buy anything from them unless they make the ‘developer mode’ a fully supported mode, or retract that security-through-obscurity lock-down attempt that is Bambu Connect and hire an actually competent cybersec team to sort their security issues.
But that aside, I really didn’t have many ABS printing issues on my P1S - an occasional warp on taller models and that’s it. I’ve never had plate lifting issues with any material.
Plate lifting happens when the material tries to warp or shrink, but the adhesion to the bed is higher than magnetic force of the plate.
I.e. ABS\ASA or Polyamide materials with 3DLAC or liquid glue.
Thanks for the suggestion! I am already all set, I don’t have any issues with printing anymore, as I’ve added all of that quite a while ago. Clamps are godsent for large prints.
[quote=“ProtoSpyre, post:197, topic:155546”]
Are the fans brushless motors? Reason being is regular ball bearings will inevitably fail much faster [/quote]
Whether it’s brushless or not has nothing to do with the bearings.
The cost to add the Ethernet jack plus magnetics adds what, a buck to the BOM? And they could choose a microcontroller with built-in Ethernet PHY, too.
Private consumers willing to spend $2500 on a machine are not hobbyists. I can almost see not having hardwire Ethernet on a $250 Creality, but the cost to add it on a machine that costs an order of magnitude more is minimal. If Bambu wants the small business or enterprise customer, they really need to understand that insecure WiFi that requires cloud access and locked-to-user authentication is a non-starter.
Just connect the thing to a hardwire network like my $300 Brother laser printer.
Oh, and “most people [you] know don’t even have cables and just use WiFi is anecdote, not data.
Same for me. I like a nice, clean machine, and it looks like I would get dirty all the time or me cleaning it all the time, lol…
Thanks for the pictures…
