I just purchaced and installed an AMS unit and 4 spools of Bambu Lab PA6-GF filament. AMS detected the filaments correctly, including colors. But when I open Bambu Studio (and Orca Slicer), I attempt tp sync with the AMS, I get a warning that reads: “There are some unknown filaments mapped to generic preset. Please update Orca Slicer or restart Orca Slicer to check if there is an update to system presets.”
any help apreciated.
Update:
see post below for details on how to get the profile.
i installed Bambu Studio beta and when i sync’d with the AMS it added Bambu profiles to them. But the PA6-GF profile seems to be locked to X1Carbon printers, when i open Orca Slicer it only shows up if i change my printer to X1C, But I use a P1s with custom profile. Now after trying for a long time to export or sync those profiles (i even made my own copy) to Orca, it just wont work.
I am now creating profiles from scratch on orca for the P1S, using the Bambu Studio PA6-GF data. Then I will run the Orca calibrations and dialthem in. I should be printing soon. Below are the unmodified settings from Bambu Studio for PA6-GF
Bl00dy rascals! Same here. Just bought some PA6-GF, as I have been using Polymaker and no presets available for me either. Needed to get an urgent job out ASAP. My AMS did not recognise the RFID at first now it has, but when i sync BStudio does not recognise this material. So disappointed as I bought thinking it would have been nicely tuned by bambu. It’s been a few weeks since release and this is bad to be honest.
Do these settings work well?
Those are the settings from the Bambu official profile for I found in the Studio Beta. You have to install the latest beta to get the filament rfid recognized.
I am NOT using those settings though.
265 nozzle temp prints ok, but layer adhesion is meh in my destructive tests. I am printing at 290c. Also the 10.5 Max Volumetric Flow speed is way too fast, I took it down to 7.
I print mechanical prints, where perfect walls and dimensions is the goal, so that’s what’s working for me. If you don’t care about how strong the parts are or defects on the exteriors, the. The defaults I posted above should work fine.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I been printing non stop with it on my AMS since I got it last week.
If you want I can send you the profile I am currently using for the filament tonight when I get home. But you can just make one right now with the data above and then fine tune with the orca calibrations.
If you could send me that profile, that would be fantastic! Thanks. Beta locked off by IT. My polymaker profile was 290-300, and those parts were super strong after final baking, so makes sense. Polymaker also wanted bed fan off.
If your printer is stock, I suggest you use the default cooling and fan settings from the Bambu profile above. Please ignore the settings for the aux fan and chamber exhaust fan in my profile.
My printer has a Dual Carbon / Hepa filter connected to the “aux” fan and a chamber heater to the “chamber fan / exhaust fan” so those settings are for controlling those accessories.
I will send the profile when I get home tonight.
I am going to try printing with PA6-GF tomorrow for the first time. Is it possible to have you send me a screenshot of your speed settings so that I can confirm that I have mine set correctly?
Hi, I bought a roll of Bambu Lab, PA6-GF and not matter what I do I can’t get a nice print with it, it’s roughy to the feel and anything fine detailed, text and treads just don’t work at all.
I’ve tried the default settings and also the setting that have been posted on here.
A couple of ideas as to why are it’s not dry enough. My drier only goes to 50oC and even on for on for over 24hours the lowest moisture reading is only even around 19%
Secondly I’ve only get the .4 nozzle and they do recommend the .6
So I guess my question is other than getting a higher temp dryer and the .6 nozzle is there anything else that I could try that might be affecting the prints.
Thanks
The lower temperature of your drier will work, it just takes a lot longer to dry. This assumes your drier expels the moist air and doesn’t contain it like many of the driers outer there. Normally the best way to know if you filament is as dry as it can be is to dry it till it stops losing weight. Don’t use the display on the drier as that isn’t a true indication.
Thanks that’s good to know…I don’t actually know if the drier dispels the moisture, however it does have pluggable holes so you can print straight from the dryer, would that work if I left those open to allow the moisture to go somewhere?
It would certainly help but I wouldn’t say it is the ideal solution.
Air exchange is essential for drying to occur. Take a look at the rudimentary picture below on how a food dehydrator works. It’s the same concept.
I figured that would be the conclusion. So really I could just do with a better dryer. My assumption was that even though it’ll only go to 50C so long as I dried it for longer that would work, which seems to be correct. But the fact that there is no real way to expel the moist air is an issue.
What’s your thoughts on the nozzle size? Would the .6 be a better idea than the .4?
Another option is that you can use the printer bed to dry the filament. It’s not the most efficient setup but the moisture is expelled. If you have an X1C there is a built in “drying” routine you can run. If you have a P series you can set the bed temperature manually. Either case you need a filament box or printed cover to contain the heat around the filament to be dried.
I haven’t honestly printed much with PA6-GF but I have printed a decent amount with the newer ABS-GF and I haven’t had much issue with the .4 nozzle. If you clogging issues I would look at using the bigger size nozzle.
I have the X1C and forgotten it had a dying feature. That could definitely be worth a try.
I’ve not had any clogging issues, just not a nice finish and any fine details treads particularly just don’t work.
How have you found the ABS GF? I’ve always been put off by ABS and ASA, which how difficult they can be to print with and warping, especially with larger prints. But is the GF version better / easier?
It’s really the durability and heat resistance that I need in a print. Which reading the ABS GF would actually be suitable for.
What sort of stuff do you print and have you find the details print well? Do you just use the default settings?
I print a lot in ABS and recently more in ABS-GF. I find the Bambu X/P printers allow ABS to be printed with ease as long as you let the chamber preheat.
Here is an ABS part I regularly print (and dip). This part threads into a mating ABS printed part.
Here is an example of a ABS-GF part I’ve printed that is subject to relatively high stress and strain. It performs better than the same part printed in regular ABS.
If the durability and heat resistance works for your application I would suggest trying the ABS-GF and it’s cheaper and IMO easier to print than PA6-GF.
Clough42 has a video recently about this filament and detailed how it solved the issues he was having with a large part that was causing issue. Starts about 19min mark.
I do use the default settings other than changing the infill pattern to something non crossing.
That’s great thank you, I’ll give the ABS GF a try.
Much appreciated all your help and quick responses.
Thanks
