Hi.
Very new to printing. I printed some Polymaker ABS using the built in presets in Bambu Studio and it printed amazingly well. I purchased some Bambu Labs ABS and the first layer isn’t laying down very well. Lots of globs. and stringing.
The preset temperatures and speeds will be set correctly but tweaking the flow calibrations are needed if you want to dial it in.
Also on a textured plate the nozzle is closer to the bed plate so it can “squish” into the texture. This can result in what looks like over extrusion on the first layer. If you let the print complete it will normally work itself out.
Hi Jon
Thanks for the help. I just checked in on the printing and it all looks good. Right now I only have the textured plates since they are out of the smooth. The textured plate makes the most sense since it did eventually work itself out. I wonder if there is a first layer tweak I can make to improve it. Structurally it can’t be optimal laying fresh filament over the globs as well as it induces a variable.
While the dual sided smooth PEI plate is out of stock, the single sided “High Temp” one is still available at a great price.
This is the same plate I have used on my printers for ABS and have over a thousand of hours on each. Suffice to say it is still currently my favourite plate. I would like to try the dual one once it’s available.
Oh and one minor point, keep the door closed when printing Abs. Resist the urge to take pretty pictures of it printing.
The globs/zits may be caused by moist filament. If it hasn’t be dried/dehydrated yet, this may help. A fancy drier is not needed - just put the spool on the bed and place a filament box over the top (cut the top off).
If you really want to confirm if drying helps, print a Benchy using standard settings (not the print profile downloaded from MakerWorld as the purpose of this exercise is a benchmark, not print optimisation, yet), and then print another using exactly the same settings after drying. You may be astonished at the improvement.
I suggest weighing the spool before and after drying. Weigh after printing the first Benchy, and before printing the second so that the amount of filament on the spool is the same.
Recalibrate after drying and printing the second Benchy.
It may be interesting to print another Benchy after calibration to see what effect it has had.
It was a brand new roll. I opened it, loaded it and hit print. Can I assume at this point that new filament is wet and best practice is to dry rolls before use?
I have read too many reports that quality has improved after drying a brand new spool that has just been taken out of a vacuum bag that contains desiccant. It defies logic, but it’s easy to eliminate this one factor. A before and after Benchy with standard presets is the litmus test.
I’ve taken to immediately drying all new spools and then placing them in the AMS or a box with desiccant for my DIY X1C.
It’s standard practice on Stratasys high performance filaments like Ultem, for full and partially-used cassettes, using a vacuum oven, blast oven or even the Fortus build chamber. Partially used filament is resealed in evacuated foil bags with desiccant, but still dried before use.
You could try looking at the failed print with a microscope or magnifying lens and see if you see air bubbles in the printed filament.
Printing a speed benchy takes a lot less time than drying a roll of filament, so if you’re in a hurry maybe that’s your litmus test as to whether you can get by without drying it fresh out of the box.
That said, I’m changing my workflow to dry filaments when I get them and then store them in desiccant so that they’re ready at the drop of a hat. It requires a lot more prep work to make that happen smoothly and easily, but it seems like it may be the best solution.
So I bought the Eibos Easdry drier. The humidity meter is totally useless but that’s not a big deal to me. I did some empty cabinet temperature tests with my Fluke thermometer and a beaded probe. All the way up it was cranking around 76C. At the middle of the ABS scale it was right around 58C. I weigh the offending ABS filament and it came in at 1049g. I loaded it in the box and as expected the temp dived since I added a giant heat sink. I cranked the knob up a bit and over the course of an hour or so the temps started rising so I kept adjusting. I left it in for around 6 hours and the weight after that was 1034g. Quite a bit of weight. Not sure if the plastic spools are loaded with moisture as well as the filament but I was surprised at how much was shed.
Here is a shot of the same parts being printed at the same stage.
That’s an interesting finding. Either it’s not normal ABS, or some other factor would seem to be in play. I wonder what the plastic spools that you’re referring to are made out of?
Edit: I just wanted to add I was very careful on weighing the spool. I weighed it twice before and twice after. I have a hard time believing all of that moisture was in just the filament but I’m way too new at this to have any kind of valid opinion. I dried a roll of black ABS and it only lost a couple of grams.
can anyone help me, i’m trying to print with ABS-GF filament but it doesn’t show as an option to use for the machine. This is when i’m trying to print and it shows Filament options.
I’d be inclined to start with base ABS profile and adjust your calibration PA/Flow tests, most filament will operate under generic settings and any fine tuning is on a machine/environment basis.
Welcome to the forum! If it’s not already there you can add it. If you drop down one of the current filaments you’ll see “Add/Remove Filaments” at the bottom.
Yes, dry upon opening. I dried mine for 36 hours at 125° fahrenheit. You can dry hotter, for a shorter time. There was no weight loss for me beyond 36 hours.